1968 Plymouth fury III ammeter bypass help

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

I know it’s allover this site I’m not the smartest tool in the shed I have it bypassed under hood but I need pictures or something how to wire it for ammeter bypass how to wire under dash and what wire goes were please help thank you

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Really? If you're not the smartest tool in the shed, why would you expect someone to waste their time to try to explain it again when that mod is indeed discussed, with pictures, all over every Mopar website?

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

Really? If you're not the smartest tool in the shed, why would you expect someone to waste their time to try to explain it again when that mod is indeed discussed, with pictures, all over every Mopar website?

Really why so rude and blunt I can probably find it but I don’t understand where the wire goes to from starter relay

 

[69monaco]

Maybe this can help from forum member @darth_linux

 

[detmatt]

Sharpest tool in the shed….

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

Maybe this can help from forum member @darth_linux

Thank you I’ll watch it should I hook wire from sr to back of ammeter or just wire to black one

 

[Big_John]

I can probably find it but I don’t understand where the wire goes to from starter relay

I found this pic out on the intrawebs and it just happens to have the terminals labeled for us.

Use the large post marked B. If you follow the wires attached, you'll see that one goes to the battery and one goes to the starter.

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

I got that part thanks Big_John what about the ammeter gauge wiring how to wire it I am putting volt meter in

 

[Big_John]

I got that part thanks Big_John what about the ammeter gauge wiring how to wire it I am putting volt meter in

I just leave it alone. It won't really work and not hurting anything.

The voltmeter just needs a convenient 12 volts that is switched on. You don't want to tap into power at the ammeter because that is on all the time.

You can splice into an accessory feed like a radio or what I do is tap off the fuse block. Here's how you do that. (picture shamelessly stolen off the web)

There's one screw holding it to the dash that you need to remove. Now flip the box over and it will look like this.

See the upper row of connections? Those are simple spade connectors. Note that it's split in half. One half is hot all the time and one is switched on with the ignition. Take a test light or meter and figure out which one is hot and which is switched. Now you just crimp a spade connector on your wire and clip it there. You may need one of these "piggyback" spade connectors where you unplug an existing wire, plug the new one in and then plug the existing wire onto the new spade.

The piggyback connectors look like this and should be at any auto parts store.

One other thing.... Use only automotive primary wire. Any of the stranded wire you may find at Lowes or Home Depot is going to not be flexible enough for auto use and will probably crack the copper wire with use. That includes any of larger under hood wire too. Auto wire has more thin strands of copper than anything for home use.

 

[volksworld]

I'm really surprised that any of the bypass threads didn't wind up as a sticky..

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

I'm really surprised that any of the bypass threads didn't wind up as a sticky..

I know right