1968 plymouth fury III PX23G8D243539 project

[saylor]

so you just got to get up in there and do it. it sucks. you need a bendy wrench or a swivel adapto or etc one of the nuts is pretty much behind the steering column but back at the firewall.

take loose the shoulder bolt 5/8 at the brake pedal armature

 

[saylor]

then there are 4 nuts holding it to the firewall 2 above the piston and 2 below.

get to them from inside up underneath the dash. good luck.

 

[saylor]

single diaphragm drum brake booster, and double diaphragm disc booster

so the drum booster has a sunken in face and a plastic wedgie filter holder thingy. i swapped that over to the new one and didnt like it. barely had any M/C stud threads sticking out. removed plastic thingy and tossed it in the general direction of the garage. bolted M/C up directly to new booster with no thingy.

backside of boosters

 

[saylor]

so . . .
i didnt take any pictures of the new thing installed heh. um. my bad. i fired up the car and made sure i didnt hear any hiss. the pedal is way higher, and feels totally different.
have not driven it yet.
noted that in the single, both the frontal piston and rear piston were free / loose ( notice the rear piston is not even in picture it fell out )
and
on the booster steve reman both pistons seem firm and not like they want to flop around or come out etc.

i dunno whats the proper expected behaivour of the pistons if they should just fall out or not, but i suspect the single booster i have is pretty wore out.

 

[commando1]

but i suspect the single booster i have is pretty wore out.

Yep, I'd definitely have to agree with you.

 

[saylor]

stardate 20200201.210 -

starboard side

new double brake booster from booster steve

all the spagett

 

[saylor]

instant +5 h.p.

 

[saylor]

so the FSM is like 'take the top loose, take the bottom loose, remove the shock'.

riiiight. did anyone of them actually try?

I got the upper arm totally undone, the lower arm is disconnected from the knuckle, the torsion bar is unwound, the lower arm still wont drop enough to get the shock out.
I started to pull the strut rod so I can let loose the lower arm and smashed a thumb. so I got out the air wrench and the damn thing is stuck. so then I went in and made a sammich.

 

[saylor]

50yr old OEM, 5yr old PST , new poly stoppers, in order

 

[saylor]

straight from Wuhan province

gonna add another coupla H.P.

 

[saylor]

plumbing in a hayden 404 cooler and B&M transmission temp gauge to the transmission lines. I didnt have any heat issue with the tranny, its just because I wanted to add a cooler so I will be cooler like the cool kids.

so - back over on the bench, I added a T to the new cooler lines so I can plumb in a transmission temp gauge

ere are both adapto ends I made. the silver ended one goes to main rad fitting and 1 of the new cooler hoses - its 5/8 wrench.
the gold ended line with the brass T - 9/16 wrench. this will go from the removed transmission line to the other new cooler hose.

. . . I guess for the temp gauge, it sorta matters where you plumb it in. if you really care about an accurate temp. I don't too much. but thinking about it, you probably want the hot line coming out of the transmission to get the really real hot temp.
I did figure don't be in between the main rad and the addon cooler as the temp will be some half cooled reading.

or if you want the temp of the nice cool fluid going into the transmission, plumb it to the return line headed back to the transmission.

o - in the bottom right corner - you can see the tag of the brake line pieces I use - 560 brake line off the back rack at vatozone 5/16" x 60" steel line. don't forget the crush compression thingies and get a flare tool.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[saylor]

Stardate 20200215.2044 -
spumco OEM replacement shocks on the way out. KYBs on the way in

had to undo lower ball joint, torsion bars, strut rod both ends, upper A arms unbolted, sway bar linkage, lower arm from frame.. then knock the lower arm and tie rod backwards until the shock had room to drop. it was freking stupid.
then the eyelet side of the KYBs was so tight fitting in between the lower arm sides i had to grease it and use a pry bar side to side until it wedgeied down in there.

the FSM doent say any of this, and i wonder wth. the last time i changed shocks i was doing the whole front end so it was just another assembly point, non issue. this was pretty much undoing the whole damn front end. and compressing the shocks and tying them with zip ties gave me noodle arm.

 

[saylor]

upper A arm liner upper

so im by myself. in the driveway. with hand tools. i had the whole wheel assembly undone from the car at the upper and lower arms, but left the wheel/knuckle/hub/rotor/brakes all together.
it weighs about a buck fiddy who knows its farking way heavy. i was lifting the wheel with knees on the inner lip of the wheel, trying to stab the upper arms, while leaning over the fender and trying to fit the camber bolts into the upper arm eyelets, and it wasnt getting it done.

so i got logical and built a lever. blam! like emeril. got those suckers back in place.

 

[saylor]

kwik kar garland on Buckingham rd. custom alignments while-u-wait. with me in the car, with a half tank of gas. beautimus.

 

[saylor]

for posterity
PST hardware camber bolt failed. threads totally burnt out. better off keeping the original 52 year old ones.

also their failed bump stops. purchased 2014.

 

[saylor]

stardate 2020.0629.1400 -

gonna have a lot of parts for sale at the car show swap meet this year if it isnt covid-ed out.

First things first - I asked the forum for a year if the water pump can be installed backwards/ upside down, and no one ever answered. Well, the answer is YES, the water pump is typically directional, and oriented in its mounting position. It may or may not be marked TOP, but if there is a weep hole, that must point downward towards the ground. and yes mine was upside down. so that was pinching the loaf. so that water pump orientation was corrected.

uninstalled the cold-case 2x 12" electric fans + shroud kit.

installed hayden fan clutch and derale 18" 6 sided fan.

here are both the hayden 2747 (long neck) and the hayden 2947 (short neck) heavy duty, thermal fan clutches. derale 18" clutch fan mounted to the 2747 in pic.
takes 5/16-18 bolts grade 5 minimum 5/8" long all the way around both ends so 8 - 4 for the fan and 4 for the pump.

I also went back to an OEM 440 large radiator shroud.

Installed a 160* thermostat with a 1/8" drill hole in it.

I tried the hayden 2747 and it fit the car but the fan blades were too deep into the shroud.

It ran cooler longer than the electric fan kit, but still went hot sitting idle in the driveway.

It is beyond critical the fan:shroud placement. If the fan is totally inside the shroud, or more than halfway out, it will not cool at its best possible rate, and may even hinder cooling with improper airflow thru the radiator. It really is the difference between being able to operate the car or not, if you are not properly cooling the engine. The blades also need a certain pitch to them. The blades also need aprox 1" of space gap between the fan blade edge and the shroud circle. The fan to shroud needs to be centered. The fan blade length should not extend beyond the radiator frame. You need to seal up any gaps between the radiator and frame/body/hood/etc. The shroud should encompass the entire face of the radiator. The fan clutch needs to be aprox 1" - 1 1/2" off the face of the radiator. there are a thousand things to study.

So $70 more dollars and 2 days later summit sent me the shorty hayden 2947.

mounting the blade to the clutch is almost a press on thing the tolerances are that tight, plus the layer of black powdercoat paint on the fan - it was a good fit. Start your bolts and tighten criss-cross evenly and pull the blade down onto the clutch body. 15 - 18 lbs. blue juice on threads. grade 5 or 8 bolts with tooth heads or same-grade lock washers.

the bolts for clutch to pump, the ones that go thru the pulley - they must be grade 5 or 8, 5/8" long, and short bolt head, or they wont fit. or you have to use studs. the clearance is nil to start these bolts it was pretty exact. i had to walk away a couple of times. same same blue thread locker and lock washers. hayden says position the split of the washer over the bolt channel.

so here we are now today, with the proper amount of suction. I drove over an hour in city traffic in the mid 90s sunny day today and didnt start stumbling out or go past 210 at all ever, so I can maybe at least make it to the whataburger car nite now.

 

[67Monaco]

, so I can maybe at least make it to the whataburger car nite now.

Pico de gallo burger baby.

 

[saylor]

stardate 2020.0704.1200 -

drove the absolute piss out of this car today.
been almost 1 year to the day since I swapped motors and have been fighting cooling issues ever since.

stardate 2019.07.07.1838 -

swapped out the 383 and put in the 440 from the humphreys car from b. brown in OR

update to prev. poster - the black goop did REALLY well it has held up excellently and also has a good look to it.

try not to die -

- saylor

1st time on the highway - up on 75 - this car is a mile murderer. highway speed turning about 2800 rpm with no pedal and can mash it and pull away from everyone. no speedo so i have no idea how fast I got up to. next time ill run a GPS. I went fast and there is way way way way more in there.

took the gerald morris method and took one of my electric fans I ditched, reversed rotation/polarity, and made it a pusher, and its on all the time.

so i have a 12" pusher and a hayden clutch fan going now.

its texas, its pushing 100 outside, and i drove for 2 hours and didnt overheat.

im going to run it like this for a while and put miles on it.

I have a year of makeup driving to do.

try not to get in front of me -

- saylor

 

[saylor]

i hereby name this car


Big Block Bertha.


that is all.