1968 plymouth fury III PX23G8D243539 project

[rags]

thermostat should have an air bleeder valve hole in it. if it doesnt, put one.

something i always do. its called a steam vent and it works. if all else is correct, the cooling system shouldn't need fans to keep the engine cool at road speed. congrats on yer progress otherwise.

 

[saylor]

just documenting my latest change to the plymouth

made a A/C compressor delete pulley out of 3/16" steel stock bar and an A/C idle pulley. wedged it next to P/S bolt head (needs to sit square flush for better support next time you make one saylor) and uses the P/S mounting bolt thru it.

 

[saylor]

so that latest rerouting of the ALT belts ^^ helped me out a bunch. i can run everything at idle in gear EXCEPT the headlights. when i was load testing the ALT with everything on - both amps, both fans, fuel pump, head unit, phone and vape charger, all gauges lit, in gear, the headlights going on were tapping me out taking me below 12v. its all original headlight wiring so its all still pulling thru the dash switch, foot dimmer switch, old *** small *** 50 yr old wires, etc. etc.

so im gonna do the crackedback rob slantsixdan daniel stern headlight upgrade next i think. i have stacked headlights so i have to make me a 4 plug setup.

ordered up some dual 87 pin (87b) relays -
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-033201...eywords=bosch+relay+150&qid=1577284053&sr=8-6
NOT 87A pin !!!1 ITS DIFFERENT!!! 1. DUAL 87 PINS / 87b spec are both pins are hot when the relay kicks on.

and some chino-ceramic headlight sockets:
https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-Harne...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

so the basic idea is hijack the headlight circuits at the driver side low lamp / 1st headlight in the original path. we will hijack them by plugging in a male H4 connector to the original female socket so we dont have to cut or splice into any stock wiring. we will wire this male H4 connector into our new relays and then on to the 4 new headlight sockets. having the relays power the lamps will offload all that power from running thru the stock harness.
the dash switch will become just an on/off switch with no real power load and the foot dimmer will toggle which relay is active.

 

[saylor]

cracked six slant back dan nacho saylor 68 mopar 4 lamp stacked headlight upgrade OTW. and 25' of 4AWG to rewire my amps with thicker gauge wiring.

 

[saylor]

good news: i ran into young horvath up at racetrac... he was out doggin in a lifted k5 blazer

bad news: i started leaking oil out the back of my motor somewhere its dripping oil but off the front of the trans...

 

[HWYCRZR]

Check your oil pressure sending unit. Mine started leaking between the plastic and metal collar. It drips down between the transmission and engine and drips out of the torque converter shield and sometimes by the starter. If you find that is the issue take the torque converter shield off and wipe up the excess oil. You will think you still have a leak because it slowly drips out of there. You can also take a quick look at the rear main seal with the cover off as well.

 

[saylor]

Check your oil pressure sending unit. Mine started leaking between the plastic and metal collar. It drips down between the transmission and engine and drips out of the torque converter shield and sometimes by the starter. If you find that is the issue take the torque converter shield off and wipe up the excess oil. You will think you still have a leak because it slowly drips out of there. You can also take a quick look at the rear main seal with the cover off as well.

i didnt think of that but holy baby jesus i hope thats it.

original wiring harness off a 68 sport fury i will use as loose measurement for the new headlamp harness

 

[HWYCRZR]

I think some have said that if it is difficult to see if it is leaking, cleanup the sensor and area around it and dust it with corn starch. The oil will leave a clear path in the corn starch.
Tip I saw on this site, but cannot remember the source.

 

[saylor]

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

all credit to daniel stern lighting for the great diagram

im going to change it up prolly, and install a diode in between the #86 pins, allowing me to drive the low beams off 1 relay, and the high beams off 1 relay.

in the slantsixdan diagram, all 4 headlights are fed off 1 relay when on hi beam

i will skip / not wire the high side of the dual beam lamp sockets, then add a diode between relay trigger pins from hi relay to lo relay..

unless i can be presented/ can find info to why not do this, it seems to me to leave the low beams on a dedicated relay, and the high beams on a dedicated relay, and choose to operate 1 or both relays, accordingly via the foot dimmer switch.

thusly.

 

[saylor]

looking closer prepping to do this work, and i have decided that the wire is wrong in that diagram on the right dual beam.



from what i have researched, these 3 prong headlights we are playing with are:
left prong = ground
top prong = low beam
right prong = hi beam

ref 1968 plymouth FSM pg. 8-128 ELECTRICAL - WIRING DIAGRAMS fig. 23 - Front End Lighting - Fury and V.I.P.

i have notified the author and await reply.

 

[Dsertdog]

The AC delete pulley is a great idea. I'm going to borrow that. It will save a small fortune in pulleys and brackets.

 

[saylor]

desertdog! yes try it and let us know. im glad you like the idea. i just used 3/16 x 1.5" steel stock from lowesdepot, it looks about how thick the average bracket is.

heres whats cooking in saylors garage today:

the relays with dual 87 / 87b output pins

 

[saylor]

everyone ought to look at doing the headlight upgrade, regardless if you have power issues or not. pulling all the headlight power thru the original harness sucks, pulling all the headlight power thru the headlight switch sucks, pulling all the headlight power thru the dimmer switch sucks.

lookit these stock wires:

you can see wire showing



and

see the ripple in the wire? that is double plus ungood. this is off the harness off the fury that had been parked since 91.

 

[saylor]

im gonna run all the wires a bit longer than stock - about 1/2" longer, just to give me cheat room. im doing this all off car just eyeballing the original harness as a template.

velcro is my friend

 

[65sporty]

That's how I set up my lights for the snow plow on my plow truck, factory wiring triggers the relay's for the plow lights. The only difference from what your doing is I have a switch to go between the plow and truck lights when the plow is not installed. Looking good.

 

[rags]

lights for the snow plow

was first thing that came to mind. plow light wiring. something for a quad headlight silverado might have about been a plug in. just trim off the part for the plow lights.

 

[saylor]

saturday night teaser image

tesa tape is sofa king cool for wire harnesseses

 

[saylor]

so were going with these blamazon H4 headlamp connectors / sockets https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-Harne...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl . they maybe really ceramic like it says, its noticeably heavier than plastic.

i compared the inner dia. to southwire 14AWG and it is for sure. and its copper looking too.

i mention this because the ones i clipped apart to get me the male socket were 16AWG and silver wire:
https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-Harne...aWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1

from the same vendor. so now ya know.

 

[saylor]

since i have a whole wiring harness here , i used it as a mock up

dont look at the red/black bundle in middle its for elec fans.

i pinned all the new wires with blue velcro as i ran them all out

 

[saylor]

tricon melty butt connectors followed up with shrink wrap dont forget to prethread the shrink wrap kids!

this is a 'hi' beam the top/middle connector is capped off in red shrink. grn/blu is hi side, blk is gnd.