1969 Imperial progress thread

[vdk2010]

I don't think it was the best idea to media blast the internal surfaces of the pump. That should be a machined surface for the rotors and not a rough surface like I see in the pics.

Somewhere, in the manufacturing drawings for those parts, there would have been a spec for surface finish and while I don't know what that is, I'll say that the media finished surfaces exceed that spec by a lot. I've had quite a few oil pumps apart over the years. The cover is usually a ground surface for example. When the surfaces get scored or otherwise worn, you start to lose pressure. IMHO, the rough surface will do the same.

You are spending a lot of time and money to get this car as perfect as you can. While the pump will probably work, I don't think it will work as well as it could or as long as it should.

Your car though... and your decision. I just know I wouldn't run it and I've built a few engines over the years.

View attachment 731024

Thanks, John! I really appreciate this kind of information.

It didn't occur to me that the surface structure would be a problematic. I use glass beads as blast media, which doesn't remove metal from the blasted parts; it just mattify the surface.
However, if this is really a problem, I would rather buy a new pump.

Do you have any recommendations for buying a high-pressure or high-volume pump?
The machine shop enlarged these four oil passages, in case that information is relevant.

 

[Big_John]

Do you have any recommendations for buying a high-pressure or high-volume pump?

Since you've enlarged the passages, I think a Melling high volume pump would be good. The rotors are longer (1/4"?) which makes the pump body longer, so you may want to use longer bolts.

 

[vdk2010]

Since you've enlarged the passages, I think a Melling high volume pump would be good. The rotors are longer (1/4"?) which makes the pump body longer, so you may want to use longer bolts.

Great! I ordered one from Rockauto.

 

[vdk2010]

I made more progress on the engine last night!

It's looking really good already.
I'm still missing a few parts, which I'll bring with me when I return from the US.

I needed an extra port for the coolant temp sensor from the Sniper EFI, so I drilled and tapped a new port where the coolant sender was on the original housing.
Unfortunately, the material is thinner than I thought... There are only two threads in the aluminum now. I hope that doesn't bite me later...
If it doesn't seal properly, I'll have to order a new housing and filler neck spacer instead...

 

[vdk2010]

 

[vdk2010]

I finally managed to install anti-vibration springs on the rear brake rotors.
What a battle that was...!

In the end, I secured the springs to the groove on top of the drum using homemade clips.
I then tied a string to the spring, stepped on the string, and stretched the spring enough to fit it over the drum.

 

[vdk2010]

Before fitting the engine, I replaced the original suspension parts with modified parts that I had made myself.

First, I replaced the brand new rubber mounts with welded ones I made myself to prevent distortion caused by the thicker new torsion bars.
I designed new side plates, which I had laser cut from 8 mm thick steel. I then welded new bolts to the top plate and welded everything together.

I hope this finally solves the problem I had with the torsion bars touching the crossmember due to excessive distortion of the rubber.

 

[vdk2010]

Next project I completed was the adjustable strut rods.
I bought B-Body bars from QA1 and modified them to fit my Imperial.

 

[Boydsdodge]

Firm feel has my template front sway bar to make Imperial sway bars. They did one for me. Biggest improvement to handling. I went with a 1.25" front sway bar.

 

[Big_John]

I finally managed to install anti-vibration springs on the rear brake rotors.
What a battle that was...!

Here's a couple alternate ways that you could try next time. You bend the spring enough to insert something like these pennies and that stretches the spring out enough to do this. A lot of guys do hood springs like this too.

This way doesn't use pennies, but it seems to work. Perhaps putting both methods together???

 

[vdk2010]

Here's a couple alternate ways that you could try next time. You bend the spring enough to insert something like these pennies and that stretches the spring out enough to do this. A lot of guys do hood springs like this too.

View attachment 732012

This way doesn't use pennies, but it seems to work. Perhaps putting both methods together???

The idea of using pennies (or similar items) is a great idea! I hadn't thought of that!

I tried the 'screwdriver' method, but it didn't work out for me because I would have ruined the paint on the drums.
The new stainless steel springs made it even more difficult, as they are much stiffer than the original ones.

However, once I had figured out the method of using a string and my body weight to stretch the spring, it worked pretty well!

 

[vdk2010]

Firm feel has my template front sway bar to make Imperial sway bars. They did one for me. Biggest improvement to handling. I went with a 1.25" front sway bar.

I have brand new Firm Feel torsion bars. They put too much pressure on the rubber mounts, almost tearing them apart, even without any substantial load on the front end.
Firm Feel told me that this is because they have a larger diameter. That's why I made new mounts.

Having read through the emails with them again, I realised that they told me to put the hooks for the adjusters into the 6 o'clock position, not the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.
So I have to take them apart again.

What position did you put them in before installing the torsion bars?

 

[330dTA]

I have brand new Firm Feel torsion bars…

May I ask what size are they? (I put 1.06” FF bars in my former NYer, as opposed to the standard HD 0.98”, upping the spring rate by 50%. It was a tremendous, very good move. No cost on comfort, but big improvement in handling.)

 

[Boydsdodge]

I have brand new Firm Feel torsion bars. They put too much pressure on the rubber mounts, almost tearing them apart, even without any substantial load on the front end.
Firm Feel told me that this is because they have a larger diameter. That's why I made new mounts.

Having read through the emails with them again, I realised that they told me to put the hooks for the adjusters into the 6 o'clock position, not the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.
So I have to take them apart again.

What position did you put them in before installing the torsion bars?

I was speaking about front sway bar, I saw that you were using the Firmfeel torsion bars and thought that a bigger sway bar would be a positive addition.

 

[vdk2010]

I was speaking about front sway bar, I saw that you were using the Firmfeel torsion bars and thought that a bigger sway bar would be a positive addition.

Oh, sorry. I misread.

And the thicker sway bar is such an upgrade over the stock one?

 

[vdk2010]

May I ask what size are they? (I put 1.06” FF bars in my former NYer, as opposed to the standard HD 0.98”, upping the spring rate by 50%. It was a tremendous, very good move. No cost on comfort, but big improvement in handling.)

They are 1.06" as well, yes. Great to hear they are such a good upgrade!

 

[Boydsdodge]

Oh, sorry. I misread.

And the thicker sway bar is such an upgrade over the stock one?

Yes the thicker sway bar feels great, secure and keeps the car planted level on turns and sudden avoidances.

 

[3175375]

The idea of using pennies (or similar items) is a great idea! I hadn't thought of that!

I tried the 'screwdriver' method, but it didn't work out for me because I would have ruined the paint on the drums.
The new stainless steel springs made it even more difficult, as they are much stiffer than the original ones.

However, once I had figured out the method of using a string and my body weight to stretch the spring, it worked pretty well!

Back in the day, it would be pfennigs?

 

[vdk2010]

Back in the day, it would be pfennigs?

Pfennig, yes. ;) Back in the good, old days.

 

[vdk2010]

Yes the thicker sway bar feels great, secure and keeps the car planted level on turns and sudden avoidances.

Good to know — I thought it was a fairly minor update. That's why I kept the original one.
I can still upgrade to the 'firm feel' one when the car is up and running. My financial focus is on getting the car running for now.