1969 Imperial progress thread

This thread is amazing. Really have some great info in here and also very inspiring. Thanks for the documentation. FYI, just visited Chemnitz, Germany (and Berlin, Wolfenbutel, Frankfurt) last year to watch my sister-in-law play pro basketball. Amazing country. Keep it up on the car!
 
Unfortunately, I don't have all the time I would like to have for the hobby. But I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem ;)

Which leads me to the 74 wiring diagrams. I would, but it's very very time consuming do redraw, reshape and colorize every single line with Adobe Illustrator. The other thing is, I found a lot of discrepancies and differences between the diagrams and the actual harnesses. For example, they marked the wires with tracers with a "*", but they don't list the tracer color. So, without having the original harness right next to you to check every single wire for correctness, it's impossible to draw accurate diagrams.

I was pulling your leg... I have actually been through something like that before, and it really sucked to do. I wasn't even the one working the mouse, I was the "technical consultant" of sorts trying to assure an accurate result as elements of a half dozen Bosch CIS diagrams were being blended into one. I wouldn't wish that job on anyone.

I do think you have the "eccentric genius" qualifications covered though, nice work.:thumbsup:
 
Before she can drive again, I had to teach her how to fly :)

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The only good way I've ever found is with a propane torch with a flame spreader. A good heat gun may do the job, but the torch definitely will.

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I had great luck with a heat gun and putty knife, I'd heat a small area (4" square) and keep the heat on it and the spatula and start scraping leaving the heat on the spatula the entire time. The heat deflects into the undercoating and keep the spatula hot, the stuff just slides off.
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This panel only took 20 minutes to clean, followed up with a wire wheel and scouring pads.


Alan
 
Thanks guys, that's an unanimous opinion :) Great! I will do it this way. I have a 5kg bottle of propan, should be enough I hope! And with the new lift, I have good access too.
 
I had great luck with a heat gun and putty knife, I'd heat a small area (4" square) and keep the heat on it and the spatula and start scraping leaving the heat on the spatula the entire time. The heat deflects into the undercoating and keep the spatula hot, the stuff just slides off.
2011-04-23_004.jpg


2012-01-05_002.jpg


This panel only took 20 minutes to clean, followed up with a wire wheel and scouring pads.


Alan
Nice rust free panel! I could use one of them as well...
 
Whether he bought it or not he still sucks....:poke:
 
Question: I was under the impression that you were renting the space. Did you buy the lift?
Yes I rented my work place and yes I bought the lift ;) It was time for a lift and I just have this work space... It's harder to move to another shop someday with this lift, but it's not impossible!

Whether he bought it or not he still sucks....:poke:
Great feeling to be on the "U suck list" ;)

It's a big 5 ton lift. Not that I will ever have to lift 5 tons, but it was the only lift with more space between the posts. With 3,34m I can get in and out of cars easily!
 
Julian, I was moving my 69 Imperial into the main garage this last weekend since I am planning on doing some restoration on it in the not too distant future (it has 34K miles on it), and the brakes are a pain - I really do not like the dual piston brake design by Budd. On other cars I have had, they just don't work very well for long before they start leaking again. Have you considered going to the 1970-73 Imperial single piston caliper design? I think I am going to do that on mine at least. I really like that design and those disc brakes never give me any trouble on my 1971 and 1973 Imperials.

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Julian, I was moving my 69 Imperial into the main garage this last weekend since I am planning on doing some restoration on it in the not too distant future (it has 34K miles on it), and the brakes are a pain - I really do not like the dual piston brake design by Budd. On other cars I have had, they just don't work very well for long before they start leaking again. Have you considered going to the 1970-73 Imperial single piston caliper design? I think I am going to do that on mine at least. I really like that design and those disc brakes never give me any trouble on my 1971 and 1973 Imperials.

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From what I have been able to find out they are the same spindle and use a different mounting bracket. I do know they are the same rotor.
 
Julian, I was moving my 69 Imperial into the main garage this last weekend since I am planning on doing some restoration on it in the not too distant future (it has 34K miles on it), and the brakes are a pain - I really do not like the dual piston brake design by Budd. On other cars I have had, they just don't work very well for long before they start leaking again. Have you considered going to the 1970-73 Imperial single piston caliper design? I think I am going to do that on mine at least. I really like that design and those disc brakes never give me any trouble on my 1971 and 1973 Imperials.

View attachment 120521

What a beautiful car! I like the color combo! Make her nice again and drive her, she deserves it ;)

I though about that as well but since the rotors are available now I wanted to keep the original Budd brakes. But just bacause I didn't know they are 'no good'. My understanding was that they are hard to maintain because there are no parts available but I never heard that they are a faulty design?! Hmmmm. Maybe I should use the later model brakes as well.
 
Removing of the undercoating is done! It worked really well with a torch, a spatula and a wire brush! Next step is stripping everything to bare metal.
2017-03-30 16.56.21.jpg





Just a few words about Chrysler quality control back in the day... One side of the Stub frame bracket is bolted like it should additional to the welding spots, the other side is not.... The bolt holes don't line up so they simply skipped bolting the bracket to the rocker... But hey, it lasted 48 years...

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On both sides, these holding tabs are 'cut'. Are they supposed to be cut?
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What is this clip for initially? It's on the underside of the drivers floor panel. There was nothing attached on my car.
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Removing of the undercoating is done! It worked really well with a torch, a spatula and a wire brush! Next step is stripping everything to bare metal.
View attachment 120588




Just a few words about Chrysler quality control back in the day... One side of the Stub frame bracket is bolted like it should additional to the welding spots, the other side is not.... The bolt holes don't line up so they simply skipped bolting the bracket to the rocker... But hey, it lasted 48 years...

View attachment 120583

View attachment 120584

View attachment 120586


On both sides, these holding tabs are 'cut'. Are they supposed to be cut?
View attachment 120587


What is this clip for initially? It's on the underside of the drivers floor panel. There was nothing attached on my car.
View attachment 120589

Nice job in getting the undercoating off the underside of the body - it looks like it did its job over the years of protecting the floors and other areas. Not sure about whether the holding tabs should be cut, but I can try to take a look under mine. Usually, though, that clip you are referencing is usually used to hold the speedometer cable that goes from the transmission and up through the lower firewall and into the speedometer.
 
I like my Budd brakes both in their performance and the fact that they were what was attached to the car when it rolled off the line.
 
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