1969 Plymouth Fury, Starting/Ignition or electric issue?

Kai2006

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Hi Guys I am new on this forum, just bought a 1969 Fury (imported from CA). I am busy for a few days trying to solve following problem. The car won’t start, i do not have electricity in my car.
Checked and replaced battery, startermotor, alternator. Also cables look good. Car will start by connecting two poles on starting relais so I think under the hood is fine. But in the car nothing works, no headlights, horn, no starting is possible. I have checked the connections on the firewall, seems 12V is going in there, but in the car nothing works. Any ideas?
 
Is the "bigger red wire" supplying the ign switch with power from the bulkhead connector, on the passenger compartment side? Are all of the terminals you checked clean and such?

When I put the old Mopar Perf electronic ign conversion kit on my '67 Newport. When I first tried to start it and it did start, I repeated the start-turn key off-start process a few times. On the 5th try, nothing. Voltage was where it should have been in the appropriate amounts, but nothing to the ign switch.

So I started looking. Got a new starter relay as it was the original part, although it had voltage and I could jump the starter from there. New part, no change. Battery had enough volts in it, too.

Further notice was related to the battery terminal ends and posts. I could see a thin layer of grunge between them. Nothing major at all, just a very thin layer. I got a wire brush terminal end cleaner and cleaned the inside of the terminals and also the inner surface of the cable ends. They had plenty of voltage, too. BUT afterward, the car started as it should. NO problems after that.

This taught me that going by looks alone is not good enough. Possibly voltage can get through the grunge, but not amps? Or the heat from energy transfer through the grunge made it more current-resistive?

On another car, it would get an intermittent "failure mode" while driving. Took a good while to track that one down! When it would fail, I would lose about .3volts inside the ground cable. Cable was new and looked great externally, but apparently had something internal. New cable fixed that one. Again proving to me that cosmetics might not be a good judge of what's expected to be inside.

On still another car, my '80 Newport 360 2bbl, I put a new set of quality spark plug wires on it when I got it. About a year later, it developed an issue with it wanting to go into limp-in mode in the computer. I could detect it with a very slight additional shake at idle, but when throttle was applied, it really shook, but was not missing.

One day, I was in the drive-thru to get something to eat and I felt that additional shake. Confirmed when I move it off-idle. Being across town from my shop, I was scared to turn the car off, so I let it idle as I ate, and then plotted the best way to get back to my shop. The car would barely make 45mph in 2nd gear to get over the slight overpasses as such. Took over a quarter tank of gas to go about 15 miles. After I got the car inside the shop and parked it, then I turned it off. Let it sit overnight. Next day, it started up and ran smooth! So the search began, looking for lost grounds that would trigger the computer to go into limp-in mode. All major and minor grounds were found to ge good.

So i next decided to check the spark plugs. When I pulled the #1 plug boot off, the terminal part of the wire stayed on the spark plug. It never had been securely crimped to the wire, but it took a year for that to manifest itself. So I slid the boot down the wire, re-crimped the terminal securely to the wire, slid the boot back down to cover it, put it back onto the plug, and no problems since then.

Apparently that un-fired plug sent a voltage spike back to the computer and the computer went into limp-in mode. IF I had been brave enough to kill and re-start the motor, letting the computer "clear", things would have been fine.

Just some of my experiences with vehicular electricity issues.

Take care,
CBODY67
 
I agree with fusible link...if thats ok get your testlight...check that the large red and black wires that go into and out of the bulkhead connector on the firewall have continuity through it and nothing's melted...then check in and out of the ammeter terminals, and in and out of the ignition switch
 
Very likely it's the fusible link.
The fusible link looks okay, it is positioned right after the battery. I wil check alle connections on the bulkhead first now. By the way, do you know what device is directly above the fusible link? I see a ground cable disconnected there.

IMG_8530.jpeg
 
The fusible link looks okay, it is positioned right after the battery. I wil check alle connections on the bulkhead first now. By the way, do you know what device is directly above the fusible link? I see a ground cable disconnected there.

View attachment 701711
Speed (cruise) control.

You can't tell by just looking at the fusible link. It has to be tested.

I'd disconnect all that extra stereo wiring while trying to figure out what your problem is.
 
My mopar friends, so still no results unfortunately. What have we done;
- Checked battery, just fine at 12.8V.
- Checked battery cables, good ground as well.
- Checked and tested fusible link, OK.
- Starter is oke, by testing as below:
- Checked starter relais, seems oke Disconnected yellow wire (from ignition) and brown wire (from neutral safety switch) and tried cranking by doing the “screwdriver-test”, motor is cranking. Also we meassure 12V at the yellow wire when cranking (so there must be 12V somehow to the ignition switch) and we meassure ground at the brown wire when transmission handle is in N or P.

So, it seems the problem is inside. To be sure replaced ignition switch and lock cilinder, but no joy.

At the firewall disconnected al connections and checked for failures, but nothing to see. Put some contactspray on them. Located the red 12V wire going in, but what to do now?

Could it be the amp gauge? It is hard to disassemble the instrument panel as we cannot reach the connections on the amp meter. If we are right at this gauge 12V goes in and 12V goes out?

Any advice?

Thanks ahead!

IMG_8621.jpeg


IMG_8620.jpeg
 
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tried starting by doing the “screwdriver-test”, motor is starting.
I think you need to define the word "starting". If by starting, do you mean the engine is running? Or do you mean the engine is turning over and not running?
 
I think you need to define the word "starting". If by starting, do you mean the engine is running? Or do you mean the engine is turning over and not running?
Sorry John I mean turning over, so under the hood it looks fine I think. I have a crank there.
 
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If it cranks when you use a screwdriver on the starter solenoid, I would check to see if you are getting any spark. I would think it is not otherwise it should start.
 
Sorry John I mean turning over, so under the hood it looks fine I think. I have a crank there.
Ok, that makes sense now. That makes things easier,

First, be sure to have a copy of the factory service manual as you'll need to look at wires and their positions on the firewall disconnect. Service Manuals – MyMopar has a downloadable version. Go to page 8-119

What you need to do is check for voltage at the ballast resistor first. The ignition switch must be in the "start" position (all the way to the right) and check for 12volts where the brown and blue wire clip on. If you have 12 volts there, now check for 12 volts at the blue wire attached to the coil.

If you don't have 12 volts at either of those, you need to trace the brown wire back to the firewall disconnect and if you can get your probe in there, check for 12 volts (again, with the ignition key still in "start"). If you don't have 12 volts there, it's time to check the wiring going to the ignition switch. But let's see what you get before we go any farther.

If you have 12 volts at the ballast resistor, it's time to look at the rest of the ignition system. What type of ignition do you have? Points? Electronic?
 
Hi Guys I am new on this forum, just bought a 1969 Fury (imported from CA). I am busy for a few days trying to solve following problem. The car won’t start, i do not have electricity in my car.
Checked and replaced battery, startermotor, alternator. Also cables look good. Car will start by connecting two poles on starting relais so I think under the hood is fine. But in the car nothing works, no headlights, horn, no starting is possible. I have checked the connections on the firewall, seems 12V is going in there, but in the car nothing works. Any ideas?
No power at all in the car makes me suspect main larger gauge (10?) wires going through bulkhead; Black from Alternator stud and the Red to Starter Relay/Positive Batt. You say you've checked those at the bulk head ... so that leads to possibly loose wires at the Ammeter (Amp Gauge) or something going on in one of those main splices in the dash harness.

Member "1972 Road Runner GTX" on here is incredibly knowledgable on this topic and has a great YouTube series; 1972 Road Runner GTX

PS - I am jealous of the cruise control! :)
 
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