1970 B5 Sport Fury GT...Critters folly....back to basics

[SportFury70]

Great work Critter, looks pretty damn good. Probably better than factory. Chrysler had such crappy panel "gaping" from the factory it's "not even funny".

 

[CanCritter]

Great work Critter, looks pretty damn good. Probably better than factory. Chrysler had such crappy panel "gaping" from the factory it's "not even funny".

lve pretty well figured that out in between yesterday and today...figured ld get bumper and grille fitted and make shure l have everything ect ..

Well it didn't quite work out that way lol..spent better part of the day on bumper/fender/hood alignment..figure another 3 hrs to finish it up....
Miscellaneous pics from today...

 

[CanCritter]

what l started with...

 

[LocuMob]

anyone have one of these pars kicking about lookin for a home?...
One l have is worn and is now oblong...leaves the assemblyView attachment 336985

Hey Critter, that's the way they are, I have two in front of me and both are that way, one hole is round, the other isn't. Go ahead and use it.

 

[thrashingcows]

I think those throttle bracket wear like that due to the throttle cable pulling on the linkage at a bit of an angle. Also is that linkage not for a 72 and later big block?

 

[LocuMob]

I think those throttle bracket wear like that due to the throttle cable pulling on the linkage at a bit of an angel. Also is that linkage not for a 72 and later big block?

It is, but the piece Critter is looking for is the same. It didn't look like wear, but it may be.

 

[commando1]

The bumpers will drive anyone nuts.

 

[3C's & a D?]

It is, but the piece Critter is looking for is the same. It didn't look like wear, but it may be.

I agree, If you enlarge the photo critter provided, the hole looks like it has two parallel flats on a 45° angle.

 

[CanCritter]

Think its wear ..if you look at linkage assembly it's easy to pick out why
Liked Rags idea a lot all be it l went a tad D iffrent and used wb weld for hole...slapped some tape on back of hole for nice flat surface...when dry used grinder brush to take excess wb off a linkage piece and drilled and painted...works great now...hate slop in my tranny or carb linkage....nice and firm now...
Thanx Rags

that fender gap was drivein me and my brickies eye batty...just wasn't gona fly..
no prisoners..

 

[polarus]

The most difficult part for me is getting the fender end caps to line up, one side down one to go, think spring.

 

[3C's & a D?]

Imagine finding that, after being painted! Driver side looks great, hood edge is straight, bumper is straight. I'd add some filler at the bottom of the extension and make it a touch lower than the hood, as the driver's appears to be. I think those one's are fiberglass, and obviously this one warped a bit over half of a century, or was that way from day one. Looking great!

 

[CanCritter]

Imagine finding that, after being painted! Driver side looks great, hood edge is straight, bumper is straight. I'd add some filler at the bottom of the extension and make it a touch lower than the hood, as the driver's appears to be. I think those one's are fiberglass, and obviously this one warped a bit over half of a century, or was that way from day one. Looking great!

l tried everything short of takein fender off to jump on it....undid bolts and retightened tryin to humor it...it just balked....threw a blanket on it and read it poetry thinkin it cold and lonely....was just no way...bottom line if l did manage to lose that gap it woulda fKd every other line...so instead of screwing up days of work designated it terminated....only thing l could come up with was softening that gap so its not noticeable to me...off to the garage shortly to finish it up...l tried

 

[Ripinator]

l tried everything short of takein fender off to jump on it....undid bolts and retightened tryin to humor it...it just balked....threw a blanket on it and read it poetry thinkin it cold and lonely....was just no way...bottom line if l did manage to lose that gap it woulda fKd every other line...so instead of screwing up days of work designated it terminated....only thing l could come up with was softening that gap so its not noticeable to me...off to the garage shortly to finish it up...l triedView attachment 337718 View attachment 337719

Critter: It looks like if you could somehow twist the fender clockwise at the front, maybe it would line up better. Of course, I have no idea how to do this. . .

 

[Mr C]

I hate gapping panels...never seems to come out right for me. Good on ya.

 

[thrashingcows]

Critter: It looks like if you could somehow twist the fender clockwise at the front, maybe it would line up better. Of course, I have no idea how to do this. . .

Since the fender attaches to the top of the rad support, so unless you lower the rad support on that one side I can't see how else to lower that fender a little bit.

 

[CanCritter]

trust me fellas l tryed everything and it always came back to that corner...if l had gotten it down it woulda screwed other lines up..in anycase got it sorted with a little vanishing cream.....

PROBLEM.....,.I
Back up switch for Tranny.....
Part came in yesterday and tried to put it in and found it realy hard to go in to the electrical socket...thought mayby it was wrong one..compared and mic,d...same....
Thought mayby bad socket.....tried switch on another socket..realy dosnt seen to go on all the way
Thought possible dryed out rubber receptable
Tried old switch on another receptable (have 3 harness/s lve been scavangeing offa}..got it on..l think but its on theregood and cant get it back off...its gona take a vise grip ect to take it off

Anyway am afraid to force new switch and connector together for fear of breaking a contact off..and still not makeing full contact or seating properly....
Any thoughts on this...old dried conector..replace?...also read there might be 2 types of this switch out there,,one with a tad longer contact...as it stands now am not confident if l did get it near seated it wouldnt have fll contact...
Also if there was no full contact am thinkin car wouldnt start due to the safety thing..ie cars not in park so wont start..little hazey on this part...still tryin to sort out mystery switch,,,thinkin its part of counsul and reverse /start...
Thoughts?

 

[CanCritter]

Final adjustment done

 

[CanCritter]

onward

 

[thrashingcows]

trust me fellas l tryed everything and it always came back to that corner...if l had gotten it down it woulda screwed other lines up..in anycase got it sorted with a little vanishing cream.....

PROBLEM.....,.I
Back up switch for Tranny.....
Part came in yesterday and tried to put it in and found it realy hard to go in to the electrical socket...thought mayby it was wrong one..compared and mic,d...same....
Thought mayby bad socket.....tried switch on another socket..realy dosnt seen to go on all the way
Thought possible dryed out rubber receptable
Tried old switch on another receptable (have 3 harness/s lve been scavangeing offa}..got it on..l think but its on theregood and cant get it back off...its gona take a vise grip ect to take it off

Anyway am afraid to force new switch and connector together for fear of breaking a contact off..and still not makeing full contact or seating properly....
Any thoughts on this...old dried conector..replace?...also read there might be 2 types of this switch out there,,one with a tad longer contact...as it stands now am not confident if l did get it near seated it wouldnt have fll contact...
Also if there was no full contact am thinkin car wouldnt start due to the safety thing..ie cars not in park so wont start..little hazey on this part...still tryin to sort out mystery switch,,,thinkin its part of counsul and reverse /start...
Thoughts?
View attachment 338022

The old plastic/rubber plugs shrink and warp over the decades from heat and oil so your problem is not uncommon. As for length of the connections on the switch itself I don't think a couple mm's will make that much of a difference. You can purchase a new plug with wiring, either after market, or exact reproductions and then cut a splice.

Here is an after market plug...

Standard® HP4755 - Handypack™ Neutral Safety Switch Connector

And yes the car will not start unless the starter switch sees a ground from the neutral safety switch in either park or neutral.

 

[CanCritter]

The old plastic/rubber plugs shrink and warp over the decades from heat and oil so your problem is not uncommon. As for length of the connections on the switch itself I don't think a couple mm's will make that much of a difference. You can purchase a new plug with wiring, either after market, or exact reproductions and then cut a splice.

Here is an after market plug...

Standard® HP4755 - Handypack™ Neutral Safety Switch Connector

And yes the car will not start unless the starter switch sees a ground from the neutral safety switch in either park or neutral.

thats what l was kinda thinkin,,just old and dried out....put heat to conector shown in pic just to get old switch into that one...both recepticals l have are the same way....think theres a third around here somewhere but no clue where....looks like new receptical under Christmas tree this year