1970 Fury III Convertible 126115 miles: Intro & Planned 440/727 Swap

[1970FuryConv]

HEADS
Exhaust Valve Seat Replace
Ben Tillman used a cutter to cut each exhaust valve seat .240 inch. The valve seats are .217 inch in height. Exhaust valve seats should be slightly below the level of the head.

.240 inch seat cut (indent in head)

· Ben Tillman used an alignment tool in valve guide, a driver, and a 32 oz hammer to hammer the hardened exhaust seats into the heads.

Ben Tillman used an exhaust valve to check whether exhaust valve seat perpendicular to valve guide. He went by sound and feel. No measurements.

Exhaust Seat installed

· On the Rogers Machine Company seat and guide machine, he installed a cutter in the chuck to do a 45° angle valve job. He did the intakes first, just a slight cut to make sure they had not gone out of round. He did the hardened exhaust seats next. Because of the differing diameters, exhaust seats used a smaller cutter.
Intake Seat Cutter for 3 angle valve job. It does all angles simultaneously

Intake 3 angle cut

Exhaust 3 angle cutter

 

[1970FuryConv]

HEADS
· Exhaust bowl blend: Ben did some work with an oblong shaped cutter in a Makita tool. The idea is to take the ledges out of the exhaust bowls to improve exhaust flow. Ben Tillman does not think that the exhaust bowls for a street engine need to be polished after being cut. That’s extra money for no further benefit. He said that the one exhaust bowl per head that has the passage under the carburetor is the poorest flowing bowl, because that passage creates turbulence or an eddy, so that bowl doesn’t have the smoothness of flow that the other 3 exhaust bowls in the head has. Nothing you can do to fix that.

Blended bowls. Turbulence passage in Exhaust bowl on right

· Deck heads .010 inch: per the instructions from Hughes Engines we cut the heads .010 inch to bring compression up to 9.25:1. Jim at Hughes Engines says that this is about as high as we can go with iron heads and premium gas. I had read 9.5 in some magazine articles, but it's a Hughes cam. I'm going with their rec.

Head on cutter after .010" cut

Both heads cut

· Positive Valve Seals: previously Ben cut each of the valve guides down to .530 inch outer diameter and reduced their height by .200 inch. He used a socket and a 32 ounce hammer to hammer each of the LVS 1075 valve seals into position

Positive valve seals installed. Do not move up and down with valves

· Valves and Springs install: Ben Tillman’s air operated spring compressor needs rebuild, so we used the Rogers Machine Company seat and guide machine. Ben installed a retainer press in the chuck of the machine.
· Ben Tillman says that it is important to install the springs with the inner dampers down. When you look at a spring, it has the outer spring and it has an inner vertical-metal spiral damper. If you look at a spring uninstalled, the bottom of the damper matches the bottom of the spring and the top of the damper doesn’t go all the way up to the top of the spring. We were careful to install the Hughes valve springs with bottoms down.
· We aligned the springs and retainer with the valve in position and chuck centered on top of valve stem. I turned the wheel to slowly drop the press fixture down on the retainers. I held the retainers in position, while Ben used tweezers to install the valve keepers. I slowly released the retainer upward as Ben held the keepers in position.
· Note: My springs had a measured installed height of 47mm, which is very close to the 1.88 inch spec (about 47.75mm) from Hughes Engine. At 47mm on a spring scale machine, Ben came up with 155 to 160 pounds of pressure. He thought that was high. He thought it should be around 100-125 for a street car. However I called Dave Hughes, owner of Hughes Engines, and he verified that the spring pressure for Hughes 1106 valve springs should be around 150 pounds. Dave Hughes assured me that with ZDDP (zinc) in his Joe Gibbs break-in oil, there should not be a problem. Hughes Engines has a cam lobe guarantee, if Hughes lifters, valve springs, and Joe Gibbs break-in oil are used, will replace cam if lobes go flat. Claim only 1 in 400 cams goes flat.

So that's a fully prepped set of 906 BB Heads, 2.08" intake valves, 1.75" exhaust valves. After that I took them home.
This is what they look like installed (at my home garage)

 

[1970FuryConv]

Hughes Engine Order

· Camshaft Hughes SEH 2024 BL 220°/224° duration at .503 inch/.518 inch lift. $173.25 for this hydraulic flat tappet cam. I had selected cam 1016 which was two sizes too small according to Jim's calculation. He said, “that cam is too light for your engine.” He did say that with this 2024 cam size I do not have to machine the valve guides and I should have adequate room for the lift to work. So if you don't use positive valve seals, NBD. My pistons have 8cc valve reliefs, but that did not seem to be of any significance with this lift. Jim said that all Hughes camshafts are built with 4° advance and should be installed straight up without further advance. Anthony @furyusvip agrees with this choice of duration and lift and says that he will run Howard or Lunati cams with about same duration and lift as 2024 in his 383.

· Lifters Hughes 5001, set of 16 $100. I did not need 5003 racing lifters

· Valve Springs Hughes 1106 $6.95 each, total $111.20.

· Timing chain and gears, double roller, Hughes 6427 $81.75

· Oil 5W-30 Joe Gibbs break-in $7.99 per quart total $39.95

· Pistons Keith Black 237 flat top KB237KTM.030 Hastins rings included. With the cam selected these pistons should generate 9.4:1 compression in approximately 170 psi at each cylinder with zero deck height. If we had gone with a smaller camshaft, this psi would’ve been too high: 175 psi or above. Called Jim later with deck height and he gave specs to cut. We cut less than zero deck to lower to 9.25:1. Better with premium pump gas and iron heads.

· Connecting rod bearings Clevite M77 CB527P $11.99 each standard journal $95.92

· Connecting rod bolts ARP 145 – 6002 $67.99

· Main bearings Clevite M77 MS2324P standard journal full groove

· Harmonic Balancer PRP 24279 7.25-inch internal balance, clear epoxy coated, shows 0-60° gradient $135.95

· Oil Pump Melling MEL M 63 standard volume $95

· Intake Edelbrock Performer RPM EDE7193, dual plane, 1500 to 6500 RPM. Jim always recommends this intake over the Edelbrock Performer unless clearance issues. By my observation of pictures of both intakes, the carb mounting surface is much wider on the Performer RPM. There is much more for the carburetor to seat against. Having PM’d with @marko I know for sure that a stock dual snorkel air cleaner housing fits under the hood with no hood scoop when this 7193 intake is installed on top of his 440 in his 1970 Chrysler 300. I think 1970 Fury III should be same.

· Valley Pan & 4 Intake Gasket Set Fel-Pro 1215, blocks crossover. Jim said that the crossover block is needed even with the Performer RPM. Anthony always uses paper gaskets with valley pan, but it takes a bit of effort.

· Cam Bearings Clevite M77 SH876S $27.99

· UPS shipping $100.57

· Total Hughes Engine order $2059.97

 

[Wollfen]

Hmm, you have been busy haven't you?

 

[1970FuryConv]

Hmm, you have been busy haven't you?

Yes.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Camshaft & Timing Chain
Ben Tillman removing slag in rectangular openings above cam

Cam Bearings: Ben Tillman used hammer, long pipe driver, with the appropriate diameter fitting on the end, to drive cam bearings out of bores. Remove & Install kit

Bearings: cam, Clevite SH-876S. All of the Bearings are different sizes in diameter. They are specific to one of each of the 5 camshaft journals. The narrowest bearing is #5 -furthest back - and they get a wider as you go towards the front.
Note: Journal number 4 has 3 oil passage openings, which extend through the lifter valley and through the heads to the number 4 bolt hole for the rocker shafts. The oil fills a smooth cylindrical portion of this bolt hole that is above the threads and then fills the rocker shaft, so that the rockers, pushrods, and valves get lubrication.
Cam Bearings are circular bearings pictured on cart

Cam Bearings: Ben installed with same long driver. Lousy pictures of actual remove/install. This is best one. Motorola phone cam leaves a lot to be desired.

• Hughes Camshaft 2024BL stamped on rear end. Clean with Marine Clean. Blow dry

• Long 7/16 thread bolt in front end of cam, helped with guiding the cam thru the block

• Joe Gibbs Driven cam lube: all lobes and oil pump driveshaft gear
• Motor Oil 30W: on 5 journals
• Camshaft: Install and turn. Turn and assure all lobes still lubed

 

[1970FuryConv]

• Timing Set: ProGear 3104, Hughes# 6427

• Crank gear: oil mtg area and inside of gear. Hammer & 2x4 covered in cloth. Tap alternately at 6 & 12 o’clock to seat fully on crankshaft. Feeler gage to assure completely seated against ridge at rear of mount area. Turn crank so 0° up and 0° key at 1:30. Crank gear has 4° advance and retard marks and key slots. Do not use unless problem found during Degree of cam
• Timing gear and chain: turn cam so dowel pin 4:30. Remove long install bolt from end of cam. Install cam gear so timing mark 6pm. Installed cam bolt and washer to pop gear on cam. Straight edge: assure timing marks and protrusion at top of timing chain cover mount align. This is TDC exhaust stroke.

• Turn crank 360° so #1 at TDC on compression stroke. Cam gear timing mark at 12 o’clock. Not sure why the marks aren't set up for TDC compression stroke, but I've built 3 440 engines. All of them required that I set up the timing chain and turn crank 360° to get to TDC compression stroke. You can look at cam and verify TDC compression because both lobes for #1 cylinder will be on baseline with no lift.

Comp Cams 4796 Degree Kit: I purchased in 1994. Has VHS tape for degree cam with heads off but tools for degree with heads on. I prefer heads off because it takes push rod, rocker and valve spring out of the process, so you’ll see some home-made tooling.

Install degree wheel on crankshaft and pointer so 0° mark aligned with pointer
• Piston stop, install: turn crankshaft opposite of motor rotation 15 to 20°. This lowers the piston enough to allow piston stop to be installed in head bolt hole. I used a bracket from my spare brackets box, which I drilled out to 7/16 inch. I ran a 7/16 bolt through the hole that I had drilled, and tighten nut on the other side. To get proper positioning, I used 2 washers below the nut, so that when I turned the bolt and bracket to the point where they were tight in outer front corner head bolt hole, the opposite side of the bracket from the bolt head was over the outside center of the piston. The bracket already had a fitting for 5/16 thread. I ran the piston stop through this thread until it was just above the top of the piston. Tighten piston stop on bracket with 5/8 wrench. It worked best to have the top of the stop’s threads, showing just above the top of its fastener

TDC, find: continue to turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction of motor rotation, counterclockwise as you face front of engine, until the piston comes up and touches the piston stop. If there is any question, feeler gage can be used to is to ascertain that the piston head is actually touching the stop. Record the reading on the degree wheel. I had 18° ATDC. Turn the crankshaft in direction of motor rotation, clockwise, until it again contacts the bottom of the piston stop. Record the reading on the degree wheel. I had 30° BTDC. I added the 2 numbers, 30+18, and got 48 which I divided by 2. TDC was approximately 24° from each mark. 5/8 wrench to loosen fastener for piston stop and turn stop until above level of block deck. I turned the crankshaft, so that the degree wheel was at 6° B TDC. Loosen crankshaft and bolt, adjust degree wheel to 0° on pointer. I repeated this process several times, until I had a reading of 28° A TDC and 28° B TDC. Turned crank so that 0° lined up with pointer.

Piston stop and bracket: remove, 5/8 wrench.
• Number one intake lifter: motor oil on sides, cam lube on bottom. Slip into lifter bore.

Dial indicator bracket: I found a sleeve in my washer box with a 7/16 inch inner diameter. I cut it to about three quarters of an inch in length and slid a large flat washer, the sleeve, bracket over the sleeve, and another large flat washer under the sleeve. Install bracket on uppermost of head bolt holes at top of cylinder bore number one, 5/8 wrench.

• Dial indicator: bracket has a rounded washer, then a small bracket for the dial indicator mounting bar, then another washer, then a nut. Place dial indicator mounting bar through bracket and position above number one intake lifter. I positioned so that the tip would hit the outer circle of the lifter. That way the hydraulic portion of the lifter could not throw off my measurements. Tighten nut to maintain dial indicator in position, 9/16 ls, 3/8 R

• Dial indicator needle should be close to parallel with the sides of the lifter

• Intake lobe centerline: rotate the engine in the normal direction of crankshaft rotation, clockwise, until reach maximum lift. The dial indicator changes direction at this point. At this point, set the dial to zero. Back the engine up, opposite normal rotation, counterclockwise, until the indicator reads 90. Turn the engine clockwise, normal direction of rotation, until dial indicator reads .050 inch before maximum lift. This is 95 on the dial. Record the crankshaft degree wheel reading. I got 95° at 95 on dial. I continued turning the crank in its normal direction of rotation until the indicator went to zero and then back down .050 inch (95 on dial), which is the closing side of maximum lift. I got 121° this time. I added 95 to 121, which equaled 216. I divided by 2, which gave me 108° from intake lobe centerline to compression top dead center. The spec on the cam card is 107°. One degree is inconsequential. Therefore there is no need to advance or retard the cam versus the crankshaft.
(.050 inch is the end of the ramp before the nose of the cam lobe and the beginning of the ramp after the nose of the cam lobe.)

• Cam bolt, remove and apply blue Loctite to threads: torque 35-35’lbs, 5/8 ss, 6 ext, 3/8 TW

 

[3175375]

• Timing Set: ProGear 3104, Hughes# 6427
View attachment 361156
• Crank gear: oil mtg area and inside of gear. Hammer & 2x4 covered in cloth. Tap alternately at 6 & 12 o’clock to seat fully on crankshaft. Feeler gage to assure completely seated against ridge at rear of mount area. Turn crank so 0° up and 0° key at 1:30. Crank gear has 4° advance and retard marks and key slots. Do not use unless problem found during Degree of cam
• Timing gear and chain: turn cam so dowel pin 4:30. Remove long install bolt from end of cam. Install cam gear so timing mark 6pm. Installed cam bolt and washer to pop gear on cam. Straight edge: assure timing marks and protrusion at top of timing chain cover mount align. This is TDC exhaust stroke.
View attachment 361157
View attachment 361158
• Turn crank 360° so #1 at TDC on compression stroke. Cam gear timing mark at 12 o’clock. Not sure why the marks aren't set up for TDC compression stroke, but I've built 3 440 engines. All of them required that I set up the timing chain and turn crank 360° to get to TDC compression stroke. You can look at cam and verify TDC compression because both lobes for #1 cylinder will be on baseline with no lift.

Comp Cams 4796 Degree Kit: I purchased in 1994. Has VHS tape for degree cam with heads off but tools for degree with heads on. I prefer heads off because it takes push rod, rocker and valve spring out of the process, so you’ll see some home-made tooling.
View attachment 361159
Install degree wheel on crankshaft and pointer so 0° mark aligned with pointer
• Piston stop, install: turn crankshaft opposite of motor rotation 15 to 20°. This lowers the piston enough to allow piston stop to be installed in head bolt hole. I used a bracket from my spare brackets box, which I drilled out to 7/16 inch. I ran a 7/16 bolt through the hole that I had drilled, and tighten nut on the other side. To get proper positioning, I used 2 washers below the nut, so that when I turned the bolt and bracket to the point where they were tight in outer front corner head bolt hole, the opposite side of the bracket from the bolt head was over the outside center of the piston. The bracket already had a fitting for 5/16 thread. I ran the piston stop through this thread until it was just above the top of the piston. Tighten piston stop on bracket with 5/8 wrench. It worked best to have the top of the stop’s threads, showing just above the top of its fastener
View attachment 361163
TDC, find: continue to turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction of motor rotation, counterclockwise as you face front of engine, until the piston comes up and touches the piston stop. If there is any question, feeler gage can be used to is to ascertain that the piston head is actually touching the stop. Record the reading on the degree wheel. I had 18° ATDC. Turn the crankshaft in direction of motor rotation, clockwise, until it again contacts the bottom of the piston stop. Record the reading on the degree wheel. I had 30° BTDC. I added the 2 numbers, 30+18, and got 48 which I divided by 2. TDC was approximately 24° from each mark. 5/8 wrench to loosen fastener for piston stop and turn stop until above level of block deck. I turned the crankshaft, so that the degree wheel was at 6° B TDC. Loosen crankshaft and bolt, adjust degree wheel to 0° on pointer. I repeated this process several times, until I had a reading of 28° A TDC and 28° B TDC. Turned crank so that 0° lined up with pointer.
View attachment 361164
Piston stop and bracket: remove, 5/8 wrench.
• Number one intake lifter: motor oil on sides, cam lube on bottom. Slip into lifter bore.
View attachment 361165
Dial indicator bracket: I found a sleeve in my washer box with a 7/16 inch inner diameter. I cut it to about three quarters of an inch in length and slid a large flat washer, the sleeve, bracket over the sleeve, and another large flat washer under the sleeve. Install bracket on uppermost of head bolt holes at top of cylinder bore number one, 5/8 wrench.

• Dial indicator: bracket has a rounded washer, then a small bracket for the dial indicator mounting bar, then another washer, then a nut. Place dial indicator mounting bar through bracket and position above number one intake lifter. I positioned so that the tip would hit the outer circle of the lifter. That way the hydraulic portion of the lifter could not throw off my measurements. Tighten nut to maintain dial indicator in position, 9/16 ls, 3/8 R

• Dial indicator needle should be close to parallel with the sides of the lifter

• Intake lobe centerline: rotate the engine in the normal direction of crankshaft rotation, clockwise, until reach maximum lift. The dial indicator changes direction at this point. At this point, set the dial to zero. Back the engine up, opposite normal rotation, counterclockwise, until the indicator reads 90. Turn the engine clockwise, normal direction of rotation, until dial indicator reads .050 inch before maximum lift. This is 95 on the dial. Record the crankshaft degree wheel reading. I got 95° at 95 on dial. I continued turning the crank in its normal direction of rotation until the indicator went to zero and then back down .050 inch (95 on dial), which is the closing side of maximum lift. I got 121° this time. I added 95 to 121, which equaled 216. I divided by 2, which gave me 108° from intake lobe centerline to compression top dead center. The spec on the cam card is 107°. One degree is inconsequential. Therefore there is no need to advance or retard the cam versus the crankshaft.
(.050 inch is the end of the ramp before the nose of the cam lobe and the beginning of the ramp after the nose of the cam lobe.)
View attachment 361166
View attachment 361167
• Cam bolt, remove and apply blue Loctite to threads: torque 35-35’lbs, 5/8 ss, 6 ext, 3/8 TW

View attachment 361160

Wow!

lots of details!

if you are installing new components, help me understand why all of the measurements? Is it just for verification? I don’t understand why you even need to do this... I don’t see any adjustments in the write-up, so why even bother?

 

[1970FuryConv]

Wow!
lots of details!
if you are installing new components, help me understand why all of the measurements? Is it just for verification? I don’t understand why you even need to do this... I don’t see any adjustments in the write-up, so why even bother?

Degree of cam checks position of cam versus crank. If the number of degrees between #1 intake max lift and #1 TDC match the cam card, you're OK. Mine was OK, so I didn't have to make adjustments.

I had a 1971 360 that I degreed. It had all new components too, but the degree process showed that my cam was 4° retarded, so 4° less than spec on cam card. In that case, I pulled off the timing set, moved the crank gear to 4° advance and reinstalled everything. I put that 360 in a truck and it ran like a bat out of hell.

Essentially, this process makes sure that a mispositioned crank key doesn't throw off timing for the 4 strokes of the crank versus the cam's actions during hose 4 strokes.

 

[3175375]

Degree of cam checks position of cam versus crank. If the number of degrees between #1 intake max lift and #1 TDC match the cam card, you're OK. Mine was OK, so I didn't have to make adjustments.

I had a 1971 360 that I degreed. It had all new components too, but the degree process showed that my cam was 4° retarded, so 4° less than spec on cam card. In that case, I pulled off the timing set, moved the crank gear to 4° advance and reinstalled everything. I put that 360 in a truck and it ran like a bat out of hell.

Essentially, this process makes sure that a mispositioned crank key doesn't throw off timing for the 4 strokes of the crank versus the cam's actions during hose 4 strokes.

Thank you for the clarification. I thought that you were verifying specs versus reality. (FYI, I did lots of this type of work in my career with airborne radars with Hughes Aircraft Company / Raytheon).

 

[1970FuryConv]

TIMING CHAIN COVER
Dirty

Clean

Crankshaft Seal: installed with cloth covered 2x4 and BFH

Oil Slinger, convex side forward

Installed

 

[1970FuryConv]

187 OIL PAN (STOCK)
· Milodon 32000 Windage tray, supposed to fit all Mopar pans, too tall for front of 187 pan. Ben Tillman: pistons and rings are splash lubricated. Street engine does not need windage tray.
· Pickup: I bent it at the threads trying to turn it enough to it to fit at pan, only to find the windage tray is too tall for the shallow front of my 187 oil pan. DOH!

Front of pan, no pickup. Save windage tray for another project.

· Oil Pan Pickup Melling G3-S3. Same as pickup that was in car. Pickup also too long/tall. Bottom of old pickup was smashed down a bit. Guess that's how PO got it installed.

· Got new pickup to turn 6.5 times on install. Still ¼-3/8” between pan and oil pan rails of block. Also hitting rear of sump area so pan sits to rear of oil pan bolt holes. Tried cleaning threads, no help

187 5-quart pan

· Harbor Freight: purchased Pittsburgh 91395, pipe thread tap and die set, NPT, $15.99. CRC 92581 cutting lube $8.99.
· I know from research that oil pan pickup and mount in block are NPT, national pipe tapered. Both female and male sides are tapered.
· After work I tried the 3/8 x 18 die on the oil pan pickup, Melling 63 – S3. The die did not have the capability to narrow the threads of the oil pan pickup any further. It was too wide at its narrowest point. www.FABO.com, some cut ½” to ¾” off the end of the pipe and rethread. Even with die, how do you maintain taper after the height of the die is reached?
· This left using the 3/8 X 18 tap in the block. 12 point sockets will drive large taps. Used 12 point 5/8 short socket, 12 inch extension, ½ ratchet and breaker bar. Repeated following process several times: spray cutting lube on 3/8 pipe thread tap. Turn in oil pickup mount threads in block. Sometimes I went half a turn, sometimes I went a full turn, depending upon where the oil pan pickup screen was last time test installed, whether it was sticking up vertical or horizontal as it should be. I reversed directions every quarter turn, to make sure that the tap didn’t hang up in the mount. Remove tap, wipe clean. Spray CRC brake clean in mount hole to washdown threads. Use air gun and compressed air to blow out dirt and brake cleaner. Test fit oil pan pickup. If I was able to turn it to the point that the screen side was horizontal, I then test fit the pan with the new gasket. I repeated this process for I’m guessing about 3 whole turns overall.

Finally got the pickup to clear bottom of pan and back of pan sump

NPT Tap & Die

 

[1970FuryConv]

187 OIL PAN

· When I finally got the oil pan to rest solid on top of the oil pan gasket, no longer hitting the top of the pickup, I removed the pan and gasket. I put Permatex red thread locker 27100 on the threads of the pickup and installed, using a level to make sure that the bottom of the block and the bottom of the pickup, top in the picture, were horizontal. I then wiped off the oil pan rails, and installed the oil pan and gasket, again with Permatex red thread locker on all bolt threads. I torqued all at 200 – 200 inch-pounds, ½ short socket, 12 inch extension, 3/8 torque wrench. I used 20 trans pan mounting bolts, because the threads were slightly longer and the washers were much larger. I am hoping for leak free operation.

OIL PUMP
Oil Pump: wipe mounting area and the area nearby on the block with rag and brush cleaner. Center hole in block mount is for oil pump driveshaft. Hole at 1030 in picture is input from the oil pan pickup. Hole at 1 o’clock is oil pump output.

· Melling M63 Oil Pump: this pump has stock volume and pressure. Remove four mounting bolts from the old oil pump and recycle the old pump. Clean four mounting bolts on wire wheel. Install pump with filter mount facing forward (only way it fits). Install using gasket provided with oil pump. Bolts: 9/16 short socket, 10 inch extension, 3/8 stub ratchet. Torque: 30 – 30 foot-pounds, 3/8 torque wrench
Ben Tillman recommends standard volume because high volume can leave too much oil at the top of engine such that the pump cavitates. Street motor. I agree with standard volume, didn't know about cavitation issue.

O-ring Seal, Oil Pump Driveshaft area of housing

Original Mounting bolts

Filter mount

 

[3175375]

187 OIL PAN
View attachment 362118
View attachment 362122
· When I finally got the oil pan to rest solid on top of the oil pan gasket, no longer hitting the top of the pickup, I removed the pan and gasket. I put Permatex red thread locker 27100 on the threads of the pickup and installed, using a level to make sure that the bottom of the block and the bottom of the pickup, top in the picture, were horizontal. I then wiped off the oil pan rails, and installed the oil pan and gasket, again with Permatex red thread locker on all bolt threads. I torqued all at 200 – 200 inch-pounds, ½ short socket, 12 inch extension, 3/8 torque wrench. I used 20 trans pan mounting bolts, because the threads were slightly longer and the washers were much larger. I am hoping for leak free operation.
View attachment 362119
View attachment 362120
OIL PUMP
Oil Pump: wipe mounting area and the area nearby on the block with rag and brush cleaner. Center hole in block mount is for oil pump driveshaft. Hole at 1030 in picture is input from the oil pan pickup. Hole at 1 o’clock is oil pump output.
View attachment 362121
· Melling M63 Oil Pump: this pump has stock volume and pressure. Remove four mounting bolts from the old oil pump and recycle the old pump. Clean four mounting bolts on wire wheel. Install pump with filter mount facing forward (only way it fits). Install using gasket provided with oil pump. Bolts: 9/16 short socket, 10 inch extension, 3/8 stub ratchet. Torque: 30 – 30 foot-pounds, 3/8 torque wrench
Ben Tillman recommends standard volume because high volume can leave too much oil at the top of engine such that the pump cavitates. Street motor. I agree with standard volume, didn't know about cavitation issue.
View attachment 362124
O-ring Seal, Oil Pump Driveshaft area of housing
View attachment 362125
Original Mounting bolts
View attachment 362126
View attachment 362127
Filter mount
View attachment 362128

Wow.
I haven’t ‘gone deep’ into Mopars, but this seems like a disaster. I am glad that you got it straightened out.

 

[Ripinator]

HEADS
Exhaust Valve Seat Replace
Ben Tillman used a cutter to cut each exhaust valve seat .240 inch. The valve seats are .217 inch in height. Exhaust valve seats should be slightly below the level of the head.
View attachment 360608
View attachment 360609
View attachment 360610
.240 inch seat cut (indent in head)
View attachment 360611
· Ben Tillman used an alignment tool in valve guide, a driver, and a 32 oz hammer to hammer the hardened exhaust seats into the heads.
View attachment 360612
Ben Tillman used an exhaust valve to check whether exhaust valve seat perpendicular to valve guide. He went by sound and feel. No measurements.
View attachment 360613
Exhaust Seat installed
View attachment 360616
· On the Rogers Machine Company seat and guide machine, he installed a cutter in the chuck to do a 45° angle valve job. He did the intakes first, just a slight cut to make sure they had not gone out of round. He did the hardened exhaust seats next. Because of the differing diameters, exhaust seats used a smaller cutter.
Intake Seat Cutter for 3 angle valve job. It does all angles simultaneously
View attachment 360614
Intake 3 angle cut
View attachment 360617
Exhaust 3 angle cutter
View attachment 360618

Absolutely love this post and all the photos with the narrative. Makes me wish I'd learned to be a machinist.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Absolutely love this post and all the photos with the narrative. Makes me wish I'd learned to be a machinist.

Thanks. I didn't know anything about machine shops either. That's why I tried to share all the info, because I think there's a lot of people in the same boat, knowledge/ignorance.
Plus, Ben Tillman and his wooden cane are proof to our older members that they can still do a lot if they ask somebody for help.

 

[Kram Edyorloh]

How good is the intake manifold fit?, that is a lot to cut off block AND heads.

 

[ricks_RR]

on that new oil pump make sure you put oil inside of it so it will cause a suction when going to start it

 

[1970FuryConv]

How good is the intake manifold fit?, that is a lot to cut off block AND heads.

Not really, original head gasket, steel shim head gaskets .017" compressed height. Felpro & most aftermarket composite gaskets are .040" thick.
Cutting off .010 each, block & head, and using a Felpro gasket should put heads within .003" of original position.
Manifold fits fine.

 

[1970FuryConv]

HARMONIC BALANCER
· Paint block POR-15 Hemi Orange almost up to head decks, oil pan, oil pump, timing chain cover. Block still upside down. Sorry about the pink look. Moto G7 phone cam officially sucks.
· I did 2 coats. 1st coat should have been very light. Did heavy first coat. Lots of runs because paint had nothing to bite into.
· PRP 24279 Harmonic Balancer: Reason for no paint. Email Pro-Race, whether to paint. Looks like has coat of clear and timing marks are stenciled, not cast. Very shallow timing marks may not show up under engine paint. Emailed Pro Race about whether to install as is. Response below.
Glenn Paine <glenn.paine@pro-race.com>
Mar 8, 2020, 10:15 PM
to me, tech@pro-race.com
• Yes, our dampers are polished steel, then coated with a clear acrylic paint for protection. Some people like black or other colours, but most of our customers tell us they like the polished steel look.
• The timing marks are laser engraved, not stencilled. If you feel them with your finger you will feel that they are below the surface.
• It sounds like you are going to paint the damper in which case the timing marks would be less visible due to there being no colour contrast. In that case you might want to consider removing the paint from the timing mark grooves. Then you are fine to install the damper.
• I have attached the installation instructions for 24279.
• Good luck and thanks for choosing a PRO/RACE product.
Glenn Paine
Vice President
T: +61 (0) 3 9584 3522 | M: +61 (0) 438 540 049
E: glenn.paine@pro-race.com | www.pro-race.com
59 Shearson Crescent | Mentone VIC 3194 AUSTRALIA

Decided to install as shipped.
Procedure
· Harmonic Balancer: Grease outer area of mount, so grease contacts timing chain cover oil seal, which I greased before install. Already has grease for polished area of crankshaft at install.
· Grease crankshaft end just to be safe.
· Harmonic Balancer: SB long HB bolt, 1 ¼” short socket, ½ ratchet. Bend spare flex plate (already bent) so that each side contacts stand when HB bolt turned or loosened. Keep adding washers, so as not to run out of thread. When HB installed far enough, remove SB HB bolt and install BB short HB bolt and washer. Turn until firm tightness felt.

· BB HB Bolt and washer, remove: clean again on wire wheel. Paint bolt head and washer.
· Final tighten: 1 ¼ short socket, ½ Armstrong torque wrench at 135 foot-pounds. At the back of the engine wife held a cutoff piece of torsion bar as a lever through the bent flex plate and against the stand.

Installed

Samsung J7 phone cam for better pictures:
· Wife used 1 ¼ inch short socket, ½ ratchet to turn the crankshaft in ¼-turn increments, while I watched to make sure that debris hadn’t collected on the cam lobes. I did remove 2 pieces of Lint at number one exhaust lobe and also another piece of debris at one of the center lobes. Sue made a total of 2 360° turns and we centered 0° on the Harmonic balancer below 0° on the timing grid for the timing chain cover. This left us at top dead center on compression stroke again.