1970 Hurst 300 hood help

mikeyjsiegel

New Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Hi, all. I am wondering if anyone here has any suggestions/direction for me. I bought a pretty decent Hurst 300 18 months ago, and moved it from their storage shed to mine until I'm ready to get serious about it. The hood looks pretty decent as far as the outer fiberglass skin goes; probably repairable, but the fiberglass is pulling away from the metal frame along the front edge. Also, the metal hood frame is rusted. I've been watching for a good hood since I bought the car, but have seen not a one. I talked to a bodyman that said he could pull a one-time mold off my hood since it was straight, lay a new skin in the mold, and then re-glue it on a good metal frame from another 300 or Newport hood, but at $1500 parts and labor, with no guarantees on the result, I'm pretty hesitant. I'd rather let the car go down the road to someone who has more experience with specialty repairs than start tearing down a real solid car and not be able to finish it properly. This thing is still rolling on Polyglas tires, and is way too cool to not be properly restored. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks, Mike
 
I would find a doaner hood off if a 300. Separate the hood from the frame and use the doaner frame to glue and rivot to your Fiberglass hood. A good fiberglass man should be able to fix the glass parts
 
Finding an original unrestored hood in good condition I would consider near impossible, these were of such a poor workmanship that they are about always in need of restoration. Besides using some glue they also used rivets on the sides and Philips head screws along the front that were laminated over, this combination always lead to cracks.

Best bet IMHO is to separate the fiberglass from the metal frame and have the fiberglass redone. I know guys who did fiberglass work on their own and said it's not that difficult, I preferred giving it to a specialist who does mostly custom work for motorcycles and sailing planes, especially as this just put me back about 200 bucks. I even had it reinforced a little the skin is now a bit more solid and less prone to cracks and a gelcoat layer came over it for further protection and evening the surface out. The metal frame is pretty solid and rarely rusted through, it can be media blasted easily.

If someone of you guys should have the hood apart I'd be interested in the measurements of the wire mesh that is partially between the two parts as it got lost and I want to put it back due to originality even if it's useless and you don't actually see it when everything is put together.
 
Last edited:
You nailed it .

Funny thing however: Years ago I had a pm in another forum from a guy from Finland who claimed to have a NOS hood skin and trunk lid. However he never answered pm for pics and prices afterwards. So I presume it was a scheme for making some money.
 
A friend of mine restored a 300 Hurst and had the exact hood issues you mention, which are common to Hursts due to the poor workmanship mentioned earlier.

He got a Newport hood with a good frame underneath, disassembled both hoods, removed his fibreglass hood skin from the rotted metal frame, and did the transplant. Really the only way to restore these hoods properly.
 
I have yet to see even one 300 Hurst in #1 condition.
All the wrong people (cheapskates) buy these cars.
 
My feeling is they did not completely trust these adhesives of the day that's why they added rivets and screws and I even think the outside hood locks (that made no sense anyways with the additional original hood lock) had the function to add even one more attachment for the fiberglass skin. Would have lasted for the average couple of years, but leads to problems with survivors. However today's solutions for resto are way better.

That's my hood after separation and resto. Hood locks are the ones also used on the 69/70 Shelby Mustangs I happened to find out, got a NOS set through our local Mustang specialist.

002.jpg


003.jpg

002.jpg


003.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top