1970 Plymouth Sport Fury V10 Swap Build Thread

[MONC440]

Made some progress of the Fury. I got my floor patched up and sealed.

I didn't use compete floor pans because this isn't a high dollar restoration so I just patched the floor where it was needed.

My process with floors has always been cut out the old rusty floor, make a patch that fits, weld it in, seal all the seems with fiberglass bondo, coat the entire floor with fiberglass resin, then paint. This has worked great for me. Be warned if you have a convertible you will be removing the plugs to drain water if you get caught in the rain as it is water tight.

 

[MONC440]

OK getting ready to start working on the Fury again.

I should have my hoist installed in my shop in the next few weeks and I'm going to dig into the front suspension. The V10 weight is heavier than anything from the 70's. I think it comes in around 800 lbs.

What is the heaviest torsion bar I could get? with the 383 bars in it now the adjusters are turned in almost all the way. It rides good but when I take a curve at speed and hit bumps the handing gets a little sketchy.

Also should I be thinking about tubular upper a-arms and reinforced lower control arms?

Thanks for the advise.

 

[HOT FURY]

OK getting ready to start working on the Fury again.

I should have my hoist installed in my shop in the next few weeks and I'm going to dig into the front suspension. The V10 weight is heavier than anything from the 70's. I think it comes in around 800 lbs.

What is the heaviest torsion bar I could get? with the 383 bars in it now the adjusters are turned in almost all the way. It rides good but when I take a curve at speed and hit bumps the handing gets a little sketchy.

Also should I be thinking about tubular upper a-arms and reinforced lower control arms?

Thanks for the advise.

just rebuilt the whole front end on mine recently and I would check out the stuff from firm feel if I were you. You can get heavier duty torsion bars and strut rods. You should be fine with your factory upper control arms just replace the bushings and ball joints if needed but I would definitely use the lower control arm plates they sell to box in and reinforce the lowers. Just be careful when welding them on to make sure the torsion bar adjustment bolt still lines up with the opening properly. I thought I had them welded up just right but ended up having to cut a little of the plate out where the opening for the torsion adjuster bolt goes thru after welding them up and installing them.

1965-1973 C-BODY

 

[chilsam]

OK getting ready to start working on the Fury again.

I should have my hoist installed in my shop in the next few weeks and I'm going to dig into the front suspension. The V10 weight is heavier than anything from the 70's. I think it comes in around 800 lbs.

What is the heaviest torsion bar I could get? with the 383 bars in it now the adjusters are turned in almost all the way. It rides good but when I take a curve at speed and hit bumps the handing gets a little sketchy.

Also should I be thinking about tubular upper a-arms and reinforced lower control arms?

Thanks for the advise.

PST has sum 1.12" T.B's for c bodies... n maybe a chassis stiffening kit from US CAR TOOL ?

 

[TxDon]

The V10 weight is heavier than anything from the 70's. I think it comes in around 800 lbs.

How much does a full dressed 440 weigh?

 

[CBODY67]

The Chevy 350 "Target" (long block) motors we shipped a lot of were right at 450 lbs, incl. the wooden crate they were in. Seems like the heaviest Chevy 454 was in the 600lb range, with the Olds diesel 5.7L being a bit more than that. The Olds diesel 5.7L's extra weight was certainly noticeable in the C-10 pickups I drove back then.

Is the V-10 motor being referenced having an aluminum block or cast iron block (as in the pickup truck motors)?

 

[MONC440]

How much does a full dressed 440 weigh?

The stock 440 is about 650, the 426 hemi is about 750. The V10 magnum is about 800.

I see Firm Feel has a 1.18 T.B. Anyone try these?

Anyone know what T.B. the 426 hemi had?

 

[MONC440]

PST has sum 1.12" T.B's for c bodies... n maybe a chassis stiffening kit from US CAR TOOL ?

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Wow, looks great. That looks like allot of re-enforcement. What are you putting in it?

 

[CBODY67]

You'll need to look at the B-body suspension torsion bar specs to see how they related to the 440s and 426H engines. Then possibly speculate about the V-10s additional weight and which torsion bars to get.

 

[HOT FURY]

The stock 440 is about 650, the 426 hemi is about 750. The V10 magnum is about 800.

I see Firm Feel has a 1.18 T.B. Anyone try these?

Anyone know what T.B. the 426 hemi had?

I would call firm feel, the guys I spoke to down there about some of my stuff were very knowledgeable and could probably tell you if the biggest TB's they carry would work but I would guess the 1.18's would be fine.

 

[HOT FURY]

I would also encourage you to upgrade to their bigger strut rods too. The factory ones are notorious for bending from stock motors so obviously a heavier front end will put more stress on them from frame flexing during turns and such.

 

[3C's & a D?]

The Chevy 350 "Target" (long block) motors we shipped a lot of were right at 450 lbs, incl. the wooden crate they were in. Seems like the heaviest Chevy 454 was in the 600lb range, with the Olds diesel 5.7L being a bit more than that. The Olds diesel 5.7L's extra weight was certainly noticeable in the C-10 pickups I drove back then.

Is the V-10 motor being referenced having an aluminum block or cast iron block (as in the pickup truck motors)?

Iron truck block.

 

[chilsam]

Wow, looks great. That looks like allot of re-enforcement. What are you putting in it?

440+6 18 spine with a 4.10 S60 rear...it has sub frame connectors n torque boxes also,

 

[MONC440]

I posted it on another thread about seats but because this is my official build thread I wanted to post here.

Got my seats done by a guy in Wixon Mi. Not original material but close enough for me.

 

[1970cat]

they look good. i hate to see people spending a small fortune on seats and have them come back with wrinkles and crooked seams.

 

[live4theking]

Looks good to me.

 

[MONC440]

So with the weather getting warmer in Mid-Michigan I'm going to start doing some body work and I'm debating on if I'm going to pull all the windows, seals and everything or just pull all the trim and paint the outer shell. I would prefer to do a full disassembly but I'm concerned about getting new seals and what not. I'm not changing the color, I'm going to stick with the original green so I could get away with just painting the shell and installing a new vinyl top, after all it is going to be a driver and not a show car.

Can someone give me an idea of price and availability of the following;
Windshield (mine isn't broken but it has some heavy delamination at the corners and I have been known to break them on removal)
Windshield seal
Rear window seal
Door seals
Side window seals
Trunk seal
I'm sure I'm forgetting something but these would be the major ones.

Thanks in advance.

 

[3C's & a D?]

The windshield should be available, although I've heard of others having trouble finding them, and affordably. The last time I bought one I ordered it at a local glass shop and it was installed for 300$ Canadian. The front and back glass is held in with butyl tape, modern urethane works too.

Door and window seals are hard to come by, particularly if you aren't prepared to pay substantially for them. Best to care for what you have. Formula 303 works wonders! The whiskers or rubbers with the steel strip at the bottom of the glass outside are available affordably.

The trunk seal is just flat, so that can come off a roll. If yours isn't chewed up, you can take a razor blade and shave it off close to the metal and reglue when the time comes.

 

[1970FuryConv]

The windshield should be available, although I've heard of others having trouble finding them, and affordably. The last time I bought one I ordered it at a local glass shop and it was installed for 300$ Canadian. The front and back glass is held in with butyl tape, modern urethane works too.

Door and window seals are hard to come by, particularly if you aren't prepared to pay substantially for them. Best to care for what you have. Formula 303 works wonders! The whiskers or rubbers with the steel strip at the bottom of the glass outside are available affordably.

The trunk seal is just flat, so that can come off a roll. If yours isn't chewed up, you can take a razor blade and shave it off close to the metal and reglue when the time comes.

Did you decide on which diameter Firm Feel torsion bars to use?
1.18?

 

[MONC440]

The windshield should be available, although I've heard of others having trouble finding them, and affordably. The last time I bought one I ordered it at a local glass shop and it was installed for 300$ Canadian. The front and back glass is held in with butyl tape, modern urethane works too.

Door and window seals are hard to come by, particularly if you aren't prepared to pay substantially for them. Best to care for what you have. Formula 303 works wonders! The whiskers or rubbers with the steel strip at the bottom of the glass outside are available affordably.

The trunk seal is just flat, so that can come off a roll. If yours isn't chewed up, you can take a razor blade and shave it off close to the metal and reglue when the time comes.

Ok thanks for the info. I will need the whisker seals regardless because mine are toast. Also my truck seal is bad so that’s good I can get that.