1970 Plymouth Sport Fury V10 Swap Build Thread
- Thread starter MONC440
- Start date
Me and the entire family came down with covid last week. So all my plans for working in the shop took a back seat to just trying to get animals feed on the farm. This virus is no joke, I started having symptoms 2 days after thanksgiving and I still can't work for more than an hour without needing a 2 hour rest.
Hope everyone is on track for a good recovery. My wife came down with symptoms the day after Thanksgiving. It wore her down. Symptoms (except no taste or smell) are gone, but still very tired. I may have dodged the bullet as I got boostered that Tuesday before. I didn’t get it, but my body was fighting something for about 3 days.
Wish you and your family a good recovery.
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
The car can wait, the animals can't, obviously. I wish you and your family a speedy recovery as well, rest is important in recovery. It may very well be worth paying someone to do the farm duties if possible to find a trustworthy individual on such sort notice. A really good neighbour? I'm pretty sure I had it before it was known as covid. The first week was no fun.
Finally feeling back to normal and got out in the shop last night.
I got the new front brake pads and hoses installed. I need to replace the passenger side line then the front brakes are done.
I bought a rebuilt master cylinder but I wanted to test the booster before installing it. Does anyone know how to test the booster? Should I vacuum test it or pressure test it? Thanks
I got the new front brake pads and hoses installed. I need to replace the passenger side line then the front brakes are done.
I bought a rebuilt master cylinder but I wanted to test the booster before installing it. Does anyone know how to test the booster? Should I vacuum test it or pressure test it? Thanks
I would vacuum test it as that's the design purpose. Put vacuum to it and cycle the pedal and listen for hissing.
Say 20 inches of vacuum? I don’t think it will see more than that in regular use.
Tested the booster and seams to be working properly. I got the front and rear brakes done. Had to get the Miller tools out to get the second side done.
I hope to bench bleed the master cylinder tomorrow and get it installed.
I hope to bench bleed the master cylinder tomorrow and get it installed.
I was amazed the wheel cylinders and all the brake hardware could be reused. The bleeders even opened without any fuss. Very unusual for a car from the north.
I also repacked all the wheel bearings and adjusted them.
Oh and replaced the stock wheel studs with 3 inch RH thread.
I also repacked all the wheel bearings and adjusted them.
Oh and replaced the stock wheel studs with 3 inch RH thread.
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TxDon
Well-Known Member
Those are some SERIOUS wheel studs, what are you planning on mounting?
Well I wanted to switch from LH to RH studs anyway and at some point this beast is going to run a 1/4 mile at a strip and they will want to be able to see threads thru the lugs in order to pass tech spec. I also want to do a flying mile to see what kind of top end speed I can get. My goal (when I get the Viper/Ram hybrid engine done) is to be able to run a 12 second 1/4 and 150 in the flying mile without changing anything other than tires. I hope to be able to do both test runs with the stock V10 this year, then swap out the engine and run them again.
So I got the master cylinder installed with out any problems and started bleeding the brakes. Then I had a problem with the front calipers not releasing. I thought maybe something was wrong with the master cylinder and it was holding pressure so I opened the caliper bleeders and they still would not release. I thought the calipers could be used without rebuilding because when I removed the old pads the pistons moved back hard but were not stuck. I thought wrong. When I got the pistons out they were pitted and rusted just bad enough to stick. The seals were in good shape for being 51 years old and the caliper bore was not bad. I ordered new pistons and seals from summit for just under $60 shipped.
Now the other problem I'm having is the rear brakes will not bleed. I think the brass distribution block that trips the brake light is stuck. Anyone rebuild one of those? I think they were only used for '70 & '71 then they went to the cast iron proportioning valve.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Hose may be collapsed if it's an older one.
I got the front brakes back together last night. I still have to figure out why I'm not getting pressure to the rear drums, maybe the distribution block or the rear brake hose.
Also started working out my gauge issues. I decided to go with mechanical oil and engine temp. I'm going to use electric tach and speedo and I'm going to use a Dakota digital adapter to make the speedo and tach work with the stock PCM...I hope it works.
Just a question, how many of you guys jump around on your project? I have a habit of working on the brakes one day then the next work on the wiring, then the wheels. LOL. I used to drive my pops nuts because he would work on one system till he hit a road block or it was done before moving to the next thing.
Also started working out my gauge issues. I decided to go with mechanical oil and engine temp. I'm going to use electric tach and speedo and I'm going to use a Dakota digital adapter to make the speedo and tach work with the stock PCM...I hope it works.
Just a question, how many of you guys jump around on your project? I have a habit of working on the brakes one day then the next work on the wiring, then the wheels. LOL. I used to drive my pops nuts because he would work on one system till he hit a road block or it was done before moving to the next thing.
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
Could be the push rod on the booster needs adjusting? Some more bench bleeding? Some distribution blocks have a switch that pops with a drop of pressure from front or rear, keeping pressure to the good end. Press in to reset.
I jump around on my projects too. There is always so much to do, and in the end, it all needs to be done. It keeps it interesting, and gives you time to think about the best way to proceed with each chore. Some larger jobs you just have to stick to in order to get anywhere.
I jump around on my projects too. There is always so much to do, and in the end, it all needs to be done. It keeps it interesting, and gives you time to think about the best way to proceed with each chore. Some larger jobs you just have to stick to in order to get anywhere.
70FuryFreedom
New Member
I say put some highway gears in it and with your viper hybrid v10 and od trans you could set the world's fastest Fury record! Take it to Bonneville and make it official. That's my vote anyway. Either way this is a great project!
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I came up with a design for my dash and gauges. I can't use the stock speedo because it is mechanical and the V10 PCM needs to have the VSS sensor where the cable would go on the trans. I also hate the square design of the stock gauges. lol
I already had a full set of auto meter gauges left over from a project I never did. Going to use electric speedo and tach from speedway as the number font and needles match the auto meter gauges I already have.
Going to swap the stock lights and wiper switches for pull style.
I already had a full set of auto meter gauges left over from a project I never did. Going to use electric speedo and tach from speedway as the number font and needles match the auto meter gauges I already have.
Going to swap the stock lights and wiper switches for pull style.
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