Good to know. That may affect my decision as to where I'd store my car once it'sfixed.
My car has a glass back window. yours does/did too, right?
For Sale 1970 Polara convertible
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Good to know. That may affect my decision as to where I'd store my car once it'sfixed.
My car has a glass back window. yours does/did too, right?
vidsal
New Member
My Polara did not have a glass back window when I got it. It could have been replaced at some point with the clear vinyl it had when I bought the car in 1989. The car had a new top in the box that came with the car when I bought it. When stored back in WI my Dad discovered a mouse had chewed a hole in it. That was disappointing. I'm not sure how good that new, but old top would have been in any case. I've probably still got it in the trunk.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Only glass rear window when new ..
Tinted glass on a non air car makes sense
Tinted glass on a non air car makes sense
The person (a C-body specialist) restoring the car told me this evening that the car still had the original distributor cap and cables. The carburetor had never been moved. All the hose clamps are the factory originals (he'll keep those and re-use them after replacing said hoses, to keep the OEM look). All the evidence thus far points to the fact that the car's stated mileage (31,208) is correct.
DRUMROLL.... the big news today is that the engine turns -- it is NOT locked up!
Fingers crossed, but --- with only the most minor surface rust, very low miles, and an engine unlikely to need a rebuild --- it looks like I made the right call by buying this car.
So far, the person restoring it has not found any bad stuff. The only thing that seems worse than he expected given the shape of everything else is the cooling system -- the water pump is shot (the inside is rusted out) and, while the radiator looks OK on the outside, it's likely to be rusty inside. We'll know tomorrow.
A new gas tank and gas tank straps have been installed. The carburetor has been sent out of rebuilding.
New shocks (KYB), new rubber bushings, and new drum brakes have been installed up front. The rear is awaiting its new shocks and the emergency brake cables (both should be arriving tomorrow). I have decided to wait on the springs --- I will probably change them, but I first want to see how the car rides as it is.
New tires were also mounted today. When the car became mine, it had 4 old tires on + the original spare and 2 spares with winter tires in the trunk. I got rid of all that old rubber --- EXCEPT for the spare (still the original double thin-line whitewall), which I will keep for posterity in a safe place. On 5 of the other 6 wheels, I've had new rubber mounted (Hankook Optimo H724 whitewalls, P225/75R15) -- 4 for the car, and one for the spare. I am keeping a spare wheel (without tire) just in case I hit a bad pothole and bend a wheel. Unlikely, but cheap insurance I think.
BTW, the seller told me yesterday (I am keeping him posted on the car's treatment) that, for the first 2 years that he owned the car (that'd have been 1977-1979), it was his daily driver and thus he drove it in the winter --- which makes the shape of the car and the lack of rust even more amazing. As I believe I said in an earlier post, the key to this riddle is how he religiously washed the underside.
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vidsal
New Member
Cool! It will probably run.
Driving around when the weather is nice will be fun. Despite the troubles with that old tight Newport top, most of my old convertibles had a power top that worked well even if the top motor had to be hotwired.
OK, folks, time for an update. Other than the wiper motor and the dash lights, the car is apparently all set to go. Even the top works!
Am hopeful that I'll get to drive it for the first time in 1-2 weeks.
Am hopeful that I'll get to drive it for the first time in 1-2 weeks.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
...I am so happy this car stayed here and is gonna see cruising time
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Pictures God Damn It
Now that the temp plates are on, the next few days will be used for test drives (to check the various systems) by the person who is bringing it back to device. Today I noted a light vibration going in reverse. Thoughts?
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polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Yeah, it's not cleaned and waxed ...
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Seriously ....vibration? Hesitation?
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Saturday after it’s been waxed outside and cleaned inside. Patience
Wax on. . . Wax off. . .
Both I think. The car shifted beautifully when I drove it forward, which is probably why I noticed. Mentioned it to my restorer, will see what he thinks.
That sounds like a mount issue... but if they check out, might just be settling and might be improved by relaxing the mounts... with everything in place loosening and re-torquing all the motor mounts and the exhaust and anything else with a strong connection to the engine (like A/C or P/S hoses...). When new mounts are have settled or someone has R&Red major components, it is not unusual for there to be a little settling and tension... relaxing that tension often improves vibrations.
FWIW, if everything looks good and it only comes in reverse... you may just want to leave it be.
Teaser shot taken Friday night -- picking it up first thing this Sunday. It's getting its final buffing as I write this.
The turquoise car in the background is a 1964 Dodge 880 being parted out.
The turquoise car in the background is a 1964 Dodge 880 being parted out.
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polara71
Old Man with a Hat
vidsal
New Member
Those old paint jobs really take to shining up! Urethane base/clear coats just don't do that it seems.
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