1971 Fury GT, Gold, Promo Car

[FURYGT]

You are making a lot of progress and your detailed photos and descriptions of what you did will help a lot of people out. I am so glad to see that restoration of the sister to my car is progressing.

 

[1970FuryConv]

You are making a lot of progress and your detailed photos and descriptions of what you did will help a lot of people out. I am so glad to see that restoration of the sister to my car is progressing.

I get your point, thanks.
I never liked the term sister because there's only one lady in my life: my wife.
I prefer "Brother" or "It".

 

[1970FuryConv]

Some further progress. I sprayed the brake line fittings with carburetor cleaner and then WD-40 over a period of 4 days. It amazed me that every single brake line fitting came free of the line. I think New Mexico red clay must act as some kind of brake line preservative. Maybe it mummifies them.
Right front fitting. Clip broke, but line removed undamaged

left front brake line after being cleaned on a wire wheel. Does this look brand-new or what?

Right front line, dirty but intact

Intermediate brakeline to rear axle

Only one of these brake line clips broke on remove. On an East Coast car they would be dust.

Proportioning valve

 

[1970FuryConv]

On to the big show, front subframe removal
one of 2 radiator core support mounts. 9/16 inch nuts both sides. Rubber insulators both sides.

Rear mounts: it's best to have somebody on the top mount with a breaker bar and a 15/16 inch socket. That way I was able to lie under the car with an impact gun and 1.125 inch socket and blow both nuts off of the bolts. Mounts have an insulator. It helps to move the front seats out of the way.

Rear mount before the seat is moved. You can still get to it.

Rear mount from below

The factory shop manual specifies that the main mounts have to be installed 1st, then the rear mounts, then the radiator support mounts. The factory was very concerned that the weight of the subframe would be borne by the front fenders. (The transmission x-member does not bolt to the body.) I removed the fasteners for the subframe in reverse order of installation.
Right side main mount near rear of front fender. 3/4 socket, impact gun

Spider assistant technician

 

[1970FuryConv]

Left side main mounts were a big problem because one of the flanges is bent over top of the bolt heads. My prybar was bending while I tried to bend the flange out of the way. Eventually I had to have an assistant hold the prybar down so I can loosen the bolts with a wrench head. Well, you’ll see the tool.

I find a use for these wrench head sockets once every 10 years or so, but in certain situations they are key.

Jack under cradle

Jackstands behind trans x-member

 

[1970FuryConv]

Subframe down
Trans x-member on moving dolly

Left side main mount and washer

Bent

Right side

Subframe fits and 8 foot bed

Welder has it for rehab

 

[1970FuryConv]

Isolated subframe, my 71 GT.

For comparison, early rigid mount subframe. No isolators at radiator support. No rear mount. 1970 and earlier

I copied the pic from James @Samplingman resto thread. Thanks!
Resurrection of my 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible

 

[Samplingman]

Hey, I recognize that ridged stub frame!

Nice work Ben, progress is motivating. Word of advice, replace the fuel line through the frame before you reinstall in the car! I saved a number of my smaller brake lines as well, but the fuel lines were junk.

 

[polaratherapy]

Kudos to you, major endeavor, my little restoration is nothing compared to what you will do to bring her back, you are a skilled man, all the best!

PT

 

[LocuMob]

Kudos to you, major endeavor, my little restoration is nothing compared to what you will do to bring her back, you are a skilled man, all the best!

PT

Empty your inbox, please.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Hey, I recognize that ridged stub frame!

Nice work Ben, progress is motivating. Word of advice, replace the fuel line through the frame before you reinstall in the car! I saved a number of my smaller brake lines as well, but the fuel lines were junk.

You know, Jim, I copied that picture months ago when I was trying to figure out whether to replace or repair the subframe. I completely forgot where I copied that picture. I'll edit to give you credit.

I also like your spell check and a ridged subframe. New Mopar terminology!

I agree about the fuel lines and the brake lines. Thanks! Ben

 

[3175375]

Good work! You are making great progress and inspiring others. Looks like you have a great attitude!

 

[Samplingman]

You know, Jim, I copied that picture months ago when I was trying to figure out whether to replace or repair the subframe. I completely forgot where I copied that picture. I'll edit to give you credit.

I also like your spell check and a ridged subframe. New Mopar terminology!

I agree about the fuel lines and the brake lines. Thanks! Ben

Haha, no problem take all the pics you want, that’s why I post them.

Yeah, spelling is not my thing, whatever you want to call it as long as it fits and does what it’s supposed to do, lol.

 

[polaratherapy]

Empty your inbox, please.

empty

 

[65sporty]

That brake line cleaned up well. Some guy's swear by Evapo-Rust for cleaning small rusty parts

 

[saforwardlook]

Personally I believe it is wise to replace brake lines that old even if they look OK from the outside. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorb moisture from the outside air and over time causes rust to occur inside the lines that isn't seen by looking at the lines externally - i.e. they might rust from the inside and surprise you at the worst possible time.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Personally I believe it is wise to replace brake lines that old even if they look OK from the outside. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorb moisture from the outside air and over time causes rust to occur inside the lines that isn't seen by looking at the lines externally - i.e. they might rust from the inside and surprise you at the worst possible time.

Thanks, Steve.
I probably will replace all of them.
My point is more from an East Coast perspective: amazed these lines are not rust dust
But then, if it was an East Coast car, the whole car would be rust dust

 

[live4theking]

I'm not a purist so when I replaced all of the lines on my car I used ni-cop. It is a dream to work with.

 

[1970FuryConv]

I'm not a purist so when I replaced all of the lines on my car I used ni-cop. It is a dream to work with.

Not a purist either. Ni-Cop is a great option, especially since original engine block was cracked and removed in the 1970s. Originality is not a big concern for things like brake lines.

 

[67valiant 100]

The steel coated prebent lines are nice OE appearing with the shielding on them. Since I doubt you'll be driving this in any severe weather I'd go that route as they'll probably last as long as the car. I use the copper/nickel stuff on my 20-30 year old beaters whenever I need to do lines.