1972 Polara Texas Highway Patrol

No fast idle lock/handle.

Unfortunately these rubber pieces, and the splash shields, will have to be replaced. Everything is nice enough to make a pattern, but far too brittle to use again. Some sheet .090" masticated rubber and I should be good to go.

This car continues to be a bit of an oddity. It's like it has a piece of an emissions package here, a piece of a police package there, a piece of a base line sedan, a piece of this and that thrown together. And that's how it is supposed to be. And the fact that it isn't all in my parts book or shop manual is sure making putting it all back together correctly slightly more difficult than it should be.
 
Got a little bit done today. Preparing to send my wiring harness to Evans Wiring - hope to get over to Amarillo this week and pick up the media blaster.

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Very cool cop project! I remember seeing these as Colorado Highway Patrol cars back then...We had a trooper claim his would do 140 mph! His was a smooth-roof, which was pretty rare for a marked CHP car then.
 
Not to mention it's a 72, kind of a love it or hate it style.
 
I don't know what it is about em, but ever since I watched Dirty Mary Crazy Larry I had to get one.
 
Trust me guys, when all is said and done I will test this car in the most legal and fun way I can come up with. Having trooper friends who approve of the project will probably help with that!
 
I have been enjoying the thread and all the photos. Beautiful work.
 
Polarus: no instructions for the AC Shutoff. The few interior pictures I've seen dont show any either.

72fury: 2642411 is the mopar part number for the alternator w/ a/c & w/ 400 or 440. I'd have to check the tag for the leece neville number

Alan: I really don't get the point behind the AC Shutoff switch either, other than maybe it was faster to just flip that switch to kill the compressor, but keep the blower running than it would have been to slide the control where you needed it.

Thanks everyone for the kind words!

Here's the deal with the a/c cut-off. For the '72 model year C-body cars (maybe '71, too), when the a/c was at "OFF", the blower motor went to a sub-low speed and the a/c compressor ran (unless the temp cut-out kicked in below 32 degrees F). This was supposed to help keep that BIG windshield de-fogged in cooler weather, or something to that effect.

With the lower compresson ratio engines, there was a little power loss from that, plus the drag of the a/c compressor, hence the "A/C cut-off" toggle switch. I remember seeing one, but that was "back then".

Now . . . on the Chrysler models (as our '72 Newport Royal 400 2bbl), there was a switch on the temp lever for the a/c compressor, too. Once you moved it slowly and felt it, you knew it was about 1/2 to full hot. The '72s had a cable for the heater water valve, rather than the earlier vacuum unit (as my '70 Monaco has). What I did on our '72 was to move the heat lever just right of the "click" and then get under the hood and re-adjust the water valve to be closed at that cable position. It would still put out enough heater heat except in the coldest weather. But it was too easy to re-set the lever to "full cold" and defeat these adjustments!

As for the rubber baffles around the radiator. This was a factory recall addition. Seems that on the '72s, in certain conditions in the summer (temp and wind direction), in traffic, the hot radiator air could re-cycle back into the front of the grille area, running up the a/c head pressure enough to cause a/c hoses to burst. So, the thin die-cut rubber panels were installed to ensure that all air which went through the condensor didn't come from under the car, but from in front of it. Kind of like rubber duct work.

Another part of the kit was a TIC (Thermostatic Ignition Control) Valve (i.e., thermo-vacuum switch) for the thermostat housing. What that did was to, when a certain coolant temp level was reached, it changed the vacuum to the distributor from "ported" vacuum to "manifold" vacuum, thereby adding some ignition advance into the mix, to raise the engine idle rpm slightly, for more fan speed and to help prevent an over-heat situation.

It all came in a medium-sized box and took about an hour to fully install.

One OTHER thing about the inner fender rubber splash shields. When I was buying "future need" parts for my '70 Monaco (in the later 1970s), I ordered some rubber inner fender shields from my local Chry dealer. They came in reasonably quick, but what one of them was did not look anything like what was on my car. It had a cross-hatch silver coating on one side (engine side, I suspect) and the other side came in normal "black".

Somewhere along the line, possibly in the later '70s, some police cars had issues with underhood heat. Chrysler came out with some solid, orange silicone valve cover gaskets to combat that problem (melting valve cover gaskets). When I found out about those, I had to have some! Had to be better than the oil-wicking rubberized cork ones, I believed. Were a little more expensive, but I felt they were well worth it.

In the back of the Chrysler parts books, there was a special "Police" section. Separate and apart from the normal parts listings. In the archives of www.mymopar.com, some of these parts books are archived (if you don't already have one). That's where I found rear sway bars listed for C-bodies (in advance of them being normal production items) with the note "LAPD".

Now, for some "action shots", there's a thread in the www.allpar.com "Squads" area where they have a 30 minute video of CHP units on their EVOC test track. It's neat watching how nicely those HD C-bodies went around that track "at speed"! The audio is a little flaky, but the video makes up for it. There's also information about how the CHP altered their perf specs to allow for the decreased power and such of the unleaded fuel era. Interesting thing was that even with lower compression, the Dodges still bested the other brands, especially on the high-speed durability portion of the test. Great reading!

The NEAT thing about Chrysler's HO engines in the low-compression era is that all that really changed, from earlier times, was the compression ratio and addition of emission equipment. The yearly Data Books still showed the 400 and 440s to still have "the guts" of the earlier engines (camshafts, roller timing chains, moly upper rings, windage trays, etc.). Even as the power decreased, they'd still still had hot rod guts, unlike other engines from other makers, back then.

Keep up the great work! EVERYBODY respects a Chry-product police car, no matter what!

CBODY67
 
Insight? Well how about a guess. Both my 68 Monaco 500 and 70 Polara convertible have rubber air dams that extend between the bottom of the rad yoke forward to the lower front valance. My 69 Fargo Camper Special had a factory rubber piece that extended between the top of the rad and the rad yoke. All of these pieces were integral to the efficient functioning of the cooling system.
 
Even before the "recall kit" I mentioned, Chry usually did a much better job of ensuring that all air went through the radiator than GM did. The radiators usually fit closer to the core support they mounted to, plus the "yoke seal" between the core support and the bottom of the hood. And, if you might consider it, the part of the k-frame which the strut rods attach to might be considered an "air dam" to help air go through the radiator, too. That "Extra Care In Engineering" thing?

One other consideration might be that the vehicle, as originally spec'd, might have had some of these rubber baffles on it, but if the car ended up costing a little too much (according to the accountants) to produce, usually determined very close to the start of production, there might be some things which ended up being deleted/chnaged for the final production vehicle. Usually things which would be easy to change at that "late date", as seat cover fabrics, chrome trim, underhood air baffles, tire brand, 11x2.5 brakes rather than 11x2.75, etc. Of course, some of those mechanical things might be covered in the price of options (as a/c, with the rubber baffles, or a trailer tow option) for the vehicle, too. Many of those things might go unnoticed to the casual observer, but if you looked . . . and compared, the differences would be obvious.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Everything forward of the firewall, less steering, has been removed for soda blasting.Finally got the Guy to re-schedule to come soda blast the car this Thursday. The last appointment got washed out by a little rain.

Anyway, progress shots will be posted Thursday evening.
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Got the rear window and deck de-trimmed. Thankfully didn't find any rust , but I will have to remove and reseal the rear window. Will also replace the trim clips around the glass at this time.










 
While its on my mind, what do my options for new window channel rubber, cat whiskers, and front door weatherstrip look like?

i have some NOS rear door weatherstrip, but can't pin down a source for anything else.

Also sending my dash off to Just Dashes this week.

why does every part on this car cost $1000? Lol
 
While its on my mind, what do my options for new window channel rubber, cat whiskers, and front door weatherstrip look like?

The glass runs (window channel) are available new from a few different vendors, Restoration Specialties and Laysons are a couple I can think of.

I just scooped up what might be the last of the cat whiskers but there might be some out there. As far as I know nobody reproduces them, not to say there isn't one that will work. As it is I will be cutting a rear down to use in the front and will need to drill holes for some of the clips. Get the part numbers for all the different bodies 2-door etc and get creative.


Also sending my dash off to Just Dashes this week.

I have mixed feelings about Just Dashes, I haven't personally used them but have seen some of their work, some good some not.

I'm having Ultimate Rides in El Paso make one for my 69 Polara. They claim it is all new foam, core is stripped to the metal. I have see their work and it is good, I have yet to see bad product from them, yet.

why does every part on this car cost $1000? Lol

Welcome to the club, it it was an E-Body you could buy bad reproduction parts or spend the same $1000 on original parts but those are long gone.


Alan

PS, what ever happened with that car in Arizona?
 
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