1978 New Yorker, so many questions, just 1 for now

[rowjelio]

I just bought a 1978 Chrysler New Yorker 400ci, LOVE the car, but after driving around a while, the car warms up, then it struggles to start. Cranks great. After about 5 seconds of cranking it finally starts. It's got lean burn delete conversion from the factory.

Is this gonna be something easy like the ignition coil or something? Any quick fixes to try first ? Starts like a match the first few times before that starts happening.

Don't know much about this car, Any input is appreciated.

 

[CBODY67]

Does the driver's door have a "Catalyst" sticker on it? Is this a Canadian-spec car? How do you know it is a "factory" Lean Burn delete car? Just curious.

The longer crank time when starting after a "heat soak" is somewhat normal, but a bit frustrating. You can ensure the tune-up items are up to snuff. As to spark plug condition and gaps, base timing is correct (which is why I am curious about the "factory" LB delete).

This is NOT like a modern EFI car, you need to add about 1/3 throttle when starting, almost any time. Then release it to hot base idle after it starts and before you put it in gear. Learning what the car "likes" and "acts best with" is ONE part of the character of vintage vehicles, no matter the brand.

Also, in addition, the first start of the day, put the gear selector in "N" from "P". This lets the torque converter fill faster so that after it starts, going into "R" is more normal. Not doing this leads to the car being lethargic to move when put into gear. ONLY the first start of the day.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[rowjelio]

Does the driver's door have a "Catalyst" sticker on it? Is this a Canadian-spec car? How do you know it is a "factory" Lean Burn delete car? Just curious.

The longer crank time when starting after a "heat soak" is somewhat normal, but a bit frustrating. You can ensure the tune-up items are up to snuff. As to spark plug condition and gaps, base timing is correct (which is why I am curious about the "factory" LB delete).

This is NOT like a modern EFI car, you need to add about 1/3 throttle when starting, almost any time. Then release it to hot base idle after it starts and before you put it in gear. Learning what the car "likes" and "acts best with" is ONE part of the character of vintage vehicles, no matter the brand.

Also, in addition, the first start of the day, put the gear selector in "N" from "P". This lets the torque converter fill faster so that after it starts, going into "R" is more normal. Not doing this leads to the car being lethargic to move when put into gear. ONLY the first start of the day.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Thanks so much for that, I meant that it came with lean burn, but was taken back to the dealer and had the leak burn conversion from the dealer. Pretty sure. I'll post some pics once we get some sunny days. I have a whole list of things I need to fix on this thing but it's mostly there, thanks so much for your advice it's been a tremendous help!

 

[CBODY67]

In earlier times, it was popular to install the Mopar Performance electronic ignition conversion kit to vehicles which either had ignition points or as a part of the LB removal situation. Easy, cost effective, and all factory items (distributors, harnesses, etc.). Then whatever needed to be done on the carburetor situation, as that's where most of the "lean burn" calibrations (as I understand it) were. The "computer" modulated the timing to greater levels than an "analog" distributor could, but "the kit" deactivated and removed that part of things. IF they used that kit, it basically makes the bulk of the tune-up specs on the labels under the hood meaningless, as to basic timing and idle speed. Back to more of a "what works" situation. Spark plug heat ranges and gaps would not change, though. Hot base idle speed could probably go as low as 625rpm or so, too.

So, thanks for those clarifications,
CBODY67

 

[halifaxhops]

Sounds like the typical ECU or pickup coil failing when warm then cools off and starts.

 

[commando1]

It's got lean burn delete conversion from the factory.

Impossible.
More likely dealer installed.

On the hot start problem.
You need a new HO battery. AMHIK.

 

[rowjelio]

Impossible.
More likely dealer installed.

On the hot start problem.
You need a new HO battery. AMHIK.

you're right i meant to say dealer not factory, sorry, i was just trying to make the point that there is no lean burn. what's the HO battery?

 

[GOLDMYN]

Are you giving it some gas when you crank, most instruction manual says to give it some gas when hot, the gas that was in there has evaporated

 

[rowjelio]

Are you giving it some gas when you crank, most instruction manual says to give it some gas when hot, the gas that was in there has evaporated

my chevy needs to be pumped. should i pump or hold it down?

 

[HWYCRZR]

Press and hold the gas pedal about 1/3 of the way down and then crank. If your carburetor is good, pumping will just flood it.

 

[commando1]

you're right i meant to say dealer not factory, sorry, i was just trying to make the point that there is no lean burn. what's the HO battery?

I meant a strong decent battery with high crank amperage

Why is everybody telling him to flood the carburetor?

 

[Mr C]

I am curious what carb a Dealership put on your car as part of their LB deletion. Is it still a TQ?

 

[75LandYacht]

I am curious what carb a Dealership put on your car as part of their LB deletion. Is it still a TQ?

I agree with Mr. C, if it still has the thermoquad carb.. get rid of it for a new Edelbrock or carb of choice.. The Thermo quad is not for a newbie or tinkerer. The newer carbs are easier to manage and run better in my opinion.

 

[commando1]

I agree with Mr. C, if it still has the thermoquad carb.. get rid of it for a new Edelbrock or carb of choice.. The Thermo quad is not for a newbie or tinkerer. The newer carbs are easier to manage and run better in my opinion.

I'm tired of carrying that flag. You are now the guardian of the cause.
I'd like to see one thread about permanently trashing that POS without one whackadoo spewing it's virtues. That whackadoo is on LSD.

 

[Big_John]

After about 5 seconds of cranking it finally starts.

he longer crank time when starting after a "heat soak" is somewhat normal, but a bit frustrating.

Yep, 5 seconds of cranking time on a hot start isn't optimum, but we're not driving new cars that can restart at every traffic light. I think there's a lot of guys that would be tickled if their car did a hot restart with only 5 seconds of cranking.

You can ensure the tune-up items are up to snuff. As to spark plug condition and gaps, base timing is correct

^This^ So many times I see these threads with all sorts of suggestions about changing this or swapping that and nobody stops to look at the basics. For example, if the car needs plugs, there's not much that is going to help until the plugs get changed.

 

[rowjelio]

I agree with Mr. C, if it still has the thermoquad carb.. get rid of it for a new Edelbrock or carb of choice.. The Thermo quad is not for a newbie or tinkerer. The newer carbs are easier to manage and run better in my opinion.

I guess it has a quadrajet in there. I replaced a valve cover last weekend and was surprised to see!

Okay I'll replace some basic tune up stuff and see if it helps, thanks guys

 

[CBODY67]

A QJet? Look for the 8-digit number stamped into it somewhere. Then Google that number to see what it might fit.

Just curious,
CBODY67