75LandYacht
Yank Tank
Bob, following Stan’s idea of a shaker hood, I’m sure there are plenty of used formal hoods around, maybe you could find one and sacrifice it as a template just to see how it looks and works.. just a thought.
1978 NYB New Engine.....
- Thread starter 1978 NYB
- Start date
75LandYacht
Yank Tank
Here ya go Bob, courtesy of stands idea. Even the same color as yours.
I might have to do that or run without a hood.
The way the engine sits right now the top of the air cleaner is making an impression in the hood insulation pad. I dont have a choice....I need to install the carb insulator kit and that is going to add another 1/2" of height to the engine.
The way the engine sits right now the top of the air cleaner is making an impression in the hood insulation pad. I dont have a choice....I need to install the carb insulator kit and that is going to add another 1/2" of height to the engine.
Just some off the top of my head thinking... First, lose the insulator pad. Second, a piece of 1/8 steel (maybe stainless) cut to the shape of the air cleaner base could gain 1/4" or so.
Then there, something else... The '64 factory S/S cars had a small spacer between the K-frame and the body to raise the body (or lower the engine depending on your perspective) for clearance. What about shimming the stub frame 1/2" or so. Adjust the T bars to compensate for the raised front.
That might be fairly easy to do. Probably easier and cheaper than having a decent looking hood done (if that's possible IMHO). Loosen the bolts and jack the body off the stub enough to slip a spacer in... Or even replace the rubber insulators with a steel version, like the cop car Diplomats used.
Then there, something else... The '64 factory S/S cars had a small spacer between the K-frame and the body to raise the body (or lower the engine depending on your perspective) for clearance. What about shimming the stub frame 1/2" or so. Adjust the T bars to compensate for the raised front.
That might be fairly easy to do. Probably easier and cheaper than having a decent looking hood done (if that's possible IMHO). Loosen the bolts and jack the body off the stub enough to slip a spacer in... Or even replace the rubber insulators with a steel version, like the cop car Diplomats used.
Thanks John. I was considering removing the hood insulator pad. That's a shame....its brand new but if I can get the hood closed...it'll have to go. I believe I will need the entire carb insulator kit. The entire kit is about a half inch.
I'm not certain about the stub frame mods. I really dont want to alter that area.
That shaker hood kit isnt cheap. $2700 for a BB 4 bbl kit.
I'm not certain about the stub frame mods. I really dont want to alter that area.
That shaker hood kit isnt cheap. $2700 for a BB 4 bbl kit.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Pfffttt... Pocket change.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Wouldn't a small inline fuel pump to help keep fuel in the bowls a better alternative to the insulator?
Sounds like a lot of work, everything under the hood looks so awesome as it sits.
Sounds like a lot of work, everything under the hood looks so awesome as it sits.
Possibly adding an inline electrical fuel pump but I would have to add a regulator to keep it at 7 PSI.
I do need to take a step back and try to think this thing out a bit.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Bob: I think stepping back is a good plan. I'm not clear as to the problem you are trying to solve. Is it vapor lock, or is the engine pinging when it gets hot, or. . .? I fear that the insulator / spacer you are looking at may not fix the problem. However, an auxiliary electric fuel pump usually cures any vapor lock issue.
It's a vapor lock problem. Engine starts fine and runs great cold and for about 30 minutes. After about 30 minutes the engine will just quit running like it's out of gas. If I coast to the side of the road and wait a couple of minutes it will start up and run a little bit and then the engine will quit again. If I park like when at a restaurant for about 30 minutes it will be pretty hard to start. The fuel line is routed up next to the aluminum water pump housing, aluminum cylinder head and not far away from the exhaust and intake manifolds. All generating a tremendous amount of heat.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Bob: Are you running an electric pump, or are you using a stock type pimp?
New stock pump.
Pumping at 7 PSI.
IMHO, I don't think the carb insulator is going to cure your issue. In my experience, you'll do more to isolate and insulate the fuel line. Couple that with an electric fuel pump and your problem should be solved. I'd give some consideration to removing the stock pump too.
If you go with a electric pump, think about adding an inertia or "rollover" switch just to be on the safe side.
I already have a plan to wrap the fuel line from the pump to the carb with this heat shield tape.
Summit Racing® Heat Tape SUM-350122
Summit Racing® Heat Tape SUM-350122
I'm considering re-routing the fuel line away from the engine and then to the top of the engine and to the carb.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
I've used the carb insulator kit and fuel line wrap with success on other Mopars. I also had a Kool Can on my Super Bee and Challenger.
I'm going to take a hard look at an electric fuel pump and an inertia switch too.
I'm going to take a hard look at an electric fuel pump and an inertia switch too.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I do not think that kit will fix your problem. Who's pump is it? I would be suspect of it. I would run a high volume Carter mechanical. Who's ignition do you have? I have seen stock type pick up coils act like that, they get hot and the insulation in the pick up is not up to the task. Years ago it was because of the parts age, nowadays who knows.
