2 Row Vs 3 Row Aluminum Radiator

[73NewYorker]

JEGS 511501: Reproduction Aluminum Radiator for Select 1973 Mopar B & E Bodies With Big Block - JEGS

So I found this one and the dimensions are exact. It is for a 440. From my understanding aluminum cools better than copper/brass. In addition the size of the tubes is also a part of the equation. I’ve read New Yorkers had a 2 row radiator as stock. With an aluminum 2 row I assume it would cool as good or better than the original?

There is a champion one for 66-69 but the issue is the hoses are on the wrong sides. All the others don’t match the size requirements.

No im not spending $1100 on a radiator
The radiator from the car was in really bad shape the shop there says it can’t be fixed along with the one I bought from Murray Park.

 

[CBODY67]

What is "non-fixable", according to them? Just curious.

From what I learned, years ago, when the tanks flanges are cleaned and conditioned for solder, the acid will "thin" these flanges, making them too thin. Usually takes about two "recores" to do that, I believe.

Not sure WHICH 440 radiators are allegedly 2-core from the factory? 440 w/o factory a/c, which would be 22" wide? All 26" C-body factory a/c radiators should be 3 core, from what I've seen. Have I missed something?

The KEY to cooling is the core itself, not specifically number of down-flow tube rows. Some tubes can be wider than others, as some aftermarket ones can also be smaller than OEM. Fin density is another issue, too! The 2-core OEM radiator in my '80 Newport 360 has two WIDE tubes and has no issues keeping things cool. So the size of the down-tubes is an issue, too.

Considering how seemingly universal radiator cores tend to be, plus the fact that I used to buy OEM-level Modine 332s for $200.00 (late 1970s), paying $1000.00+ for a new one seems not just "gouging", but "canyoning" to me. I could see $500.00, but not more. BTAIM

Of course, if you want to convert to a crossflow, there is a GM size that is very close (core dimensions) to your current radiator. In a composite construction. Just needs some fab for attachments and plumbing the atf cooler lines, for less than $300.00 (including fab and plumbing), I suspect.

Otherwise, you might have found a good deal.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[73NewYorker]

What is "non-fixable", according to them? Just curious.

From what I learned, years ago, when the tanks flanges are cleaned and conditioned for solder, the acid will "thin" these flanges, making them too thin. Usually takes about two "recores" to do that, I believe.

Not sure WHICH 440 radiators are allegedly 2-core from the factory? 440 w/o factory a/c, which would be 22" wide? All 26" C-body factory a/c radiators should be 3 core, from what I've seen. Have I missed something?

The KEY to cooling is the core itself, not specifically number of down-flow tube rows. Some tubes can be wider than others, as some aftermarket ones can also be smaller than OEM. Fin density is another issue, too! The 2-core OEM radiator in my '80 Newport 360 has two WIDE tubes and has no issues keeping things cool. So the size of the down-tubes is an issue, too.

Considering how seemingly universal radiator cores tend to be, plus the fact that I used to buy OEM-level Modine 332s for $200.00 (late 1970s), paying $1000.00+ for a new one seems not just "gouging", but "canyoning" to me. I could see $500.00, but not more. BTAIM

Of course, if you want to convert to a crossflow, there is a GM size that is very close (core dimensions) to your current radiator. In a composite construction. Just needs some fab for attachments and plumbing the atf cooler lines, for less than $300.00 (including fab and plumbing), I suspect.

Otherwise, you might have found a good deal.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Apparently what came out of my 73 was an OEM copper/brass radiator 2 row. I can vouch it’s original as my Uncle was owner 1 and never replaced it. I’m owner 2

 

[CBODY67]

Apparently what came out of my 73 was an OEM copper/brass radiator 2 row. I can vouch it’s original as my Uncle was owner 1 and never replaced it. I’m owner 2

Thanks for the verification. Factory a/c car? Again, the width of the down-tubes can be important.

 

[73NewYorker]

Yes factory AC the listing for JEGS above states that the tubes are large. So I figure that combined with the aluminum cooling we should be good. I like that it looks somewhat stock.

 

[73NewYorker]

Photo

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

If the rad in your car is the original and has never been recored, it can be recored. Someone wants to have you spend unnecessary cash to buy an aftermarket part (cuz they get a sales bonus) rather than do the work for a proper recore. Go to another radiator shop.

 

[Big_John]

From my understanding aluminum cools better than copper/brass.

There's a lot of discussion about what is better. An aluminum radiator vendor once told me that given both to be identical, the copper radiator will cool better. Because of that, the aluminum radiators are usually larger with more capacity.

If you were closer, I'd say to send the radiator to a shop near here for a recore. Unless the tanks are damaged, they can be recored.

 

[73NewYorker]

If the rad in your car is the original and has never been recored, it can be recored. Someone wants to have you spend unnecessary cash to buy an aftermarket part (cuz they get a sales bonus) rather than do the work for a proper recore. Go to another radiator shop.

Why would someone want me to spend the cash? I would buy it from JEGS not from either shop working in the radiator or car.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Because if a customer buys from the shop's recommended suupplier, their supplier gives them a kick back.

 

[73NewYorker]

Because if a customer buys from the shop's recommended suupplier, their supplier gives them a kick back.

Considering I am doing the searching from 2000 miles away that would be difficult…

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I was talking at a local level... local shop - car's seen by the shop - shop suggests their local supplier - customer agrees - local supplier kicks back to shop - all in the interest of selling new parts and not recoring the original which is more work for the shop.

 

[CBODY67]

Perhaps the main reason everybody is on the "aluminum radiator" bandwagon is due to the possibility that copper radiators need lead to solder the tanks to the core?

To me, an aluminum radiator is a funny looking aluminum beer can. Heli-arc welded together, so "no rebuilding" if it is needed. End result, recycle. Yet with all of the accumulated deposits in the aluminum, who would want to recycle it?

I like drop-ins, which was one reason I liked the Modine 332s I used to buy. The solder lasted better than an OEM new radiator. Priced about the same as a re-core, back then. But they are no more.

Get two cans of satin black paint, too. Might also look at Summit Racing, as they and Jeg's usually mirror each other in product and sale items.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[73NewYorker]

I was talking at a local level... local shop - car's seen by the shop - shop suggests their local supplier - customer agrees - local supplier kicks back to shop - all in the interest of selling new parts and not recoring the original which is more work for the shop.

But that’s not happening here, I’ve been hunting for the radiator. It was their shop they took it to be recored and couldn’t (or weren’t willing) so they aren’t making money off this