2barrel 383 carb gaskets

[gary68plyfury]

Hey All, this is my first post here. Hopefully I do it correctly.
I have 68 Plymouth Fury III with a 2barrell 383 that I bought 2 weeks ago, non-running and a good number parts taken off. The part I'm concerned with is the carb.
It looks to have 2 cork gaskets between it and the intake manifold and the gaskets are holding the choke open. The choke can't move until I removed the ( I don't know the correct name) choke rod that goes in to the manifold. Once I disconnect the choke rod, I can more the rod down and manually close the choke.
Should I remove the 2 cork gaskets and install one thin one for the choke opens and closes? I've heard/read the cork gaskets are used as insulators and help stop vapor locks.

Currently I don't have the fan belt pulley to drive the water pump, so I only run it for about 5 seconds. Could probably go longer. Also don't have a fan. And don't have some interior parts, but one issue at a time.

Thanks,
Gary

 

[FURYGT]

Gary,

Are you sure that the cork gaskets are interferring with the choke pull of rod? Could it be that the temperature sensing spring like part inside the intake manifold is frozen or just isn't working anymore? Sometimes the part inside the manifold fails, breaks or becomes frozen. I have have had and still have '68 Furys for 30 years so I will help if I can.

Bill

 

[gary68plyfury]

Gary,

Are you sure that the cork gaskets are interferring with the choke pull of rod? Could it be that the temperature sensing spring like part inside the intake manifold is frozen or just isn't working anymore? Sometimes the part inside the manifold fails, breaks or becomes frozen. I have have had and still have '68 Furys for 30 years so I will help if I can.

Bill

Bill,
Thanks for the help. Sounds like you might be able to answer a ton of my questions. I have a few.
No, the gaskets aren't interferring with the choke pull rod. Once I disconnect the choke pull it will drop down about half inch, I think, but have to pull it all the way up to connect it to the carb. To connect the rod, have to pull it up to the top of it's travel. The rod definitely seems to operate as it should.

 

[FURYGT]

When you put the accelerator pedal to the floor a few times to set the choke before starting, does that open the choke?

 

[gary68plyfury]

When you put the accelerator pedal to the floor a few times to set the choke before starting, does that open the choke?

I don't know. I'm 99% sure, the choke will stay open to allow all the fresh air in that the engine wants.

 

[FURYGT]

I don't know. I'm 99% sure, the choke will stay open to allow all the fresh air in that the engine wants.

The question is whether it will also stay closed during a cold start attempt.

 

[gary68plyfury]

The question is whether it will also stay closed during a cold start attempt.

Understood. I'll check tonight and reply later tonight or tomorrow morning.
Thanks for the help

 

[CBODY67]

The only OEM gasket is one about 1/4" thick with metal or rubber bushings in each stud hole. No cork. The cars were bad about hot re-starts taking a while, but that seems to be the nature of the beast. Just make sure the ignition system is as it should be so all starts are as quick as they can be. Should be a Carter BBD with 1.56" throttle bores, as I recall for 383s of that model year.

You can remove the one or two hold-down bolts on the choke thermostat and remove it to see what's going on with it. Might just be that it needs some penetrating oil and a correct adjustment?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[gary68plyfury]

The question is whether it will also stay closed during a cold start attempt.

I disconnected the shaft, that comes out of the intake, from the carb to check its movement. It moves fine but looking at it closer, it seemed to a non-stock or non-manufactured bend. It looked like an S. I straightened n now the choke is closed. The bends were holding the choke open.
Look at the picture. The shaft that is gray n rusted, more on the left side the pic, is bent. Straighten it allows the choke to close

 

[gary68plyfury]

The only OEM gasket is one about 1/4" thick with metal or rubber bushings in each stud hole. No cork. The cars were bad about hot re-starts taking a while, but that seems to be the nature of the beast. Just make sure the ignition system is as it should be so all starts are as quick as they can be. Should be a Carter BBD with 1.56" throttle bores, as I recall for 383s of that model year.

You can remove the one or two hold-down bolts on the choke thermostat and remove it to see what's going on with it. Might just be that it needs some penetrating oil and a correct adjustment?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

I did as you said and it seemed to be working fine. See my other reply.
The shaft had an S bends. I straightened n new the choke seems to be closing fine. I have other work before I can let the engine get up to operating temperature and see what happens.

I want to thank everyone who replied n helped.
Now I’m off to find and install the other parts the last owner lost.

Gary

 

[CBODY67]

Thanks for the reply and images.

Looks like you need some idle mixture screws, too? Or is that year where they had an "air adjustment" on the back of the carb?

Download the service manual at www.mymopar.com (free download) and look in the fuel section, as to the 2bbl carb. Then compare the bends of the choke rod to what's in the service manual. Plus the bends in the choke pull-off rod, too.

CBODY67

 

[gary68plyfury]

Thanks for the reply and images.

Looks like you need some idle mixture screws, too? Or is that year where they had an "air adjustment" on the back of the carb?

Download the service manual at www.mymopar.com (free download) and look in the fuel section, as to the 2bbl carb. Then compare the bends of the choke rod to what's in the service manual. Plus the bends in the choke pull-off rod, too.

CBODY67

I have air adjustment on the back.
Thanks for the link. I’ll check it out now.
Now I just need a fan pulley n a fan so I can run it longer. Yes, last owner lost a good number of parts. But it’s a fun jigsaw puzzle.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Thanks for the reply and images.

Looks like you need some idle mixture screws, too? Or is that year where they had an "air adjustment" on the back of the carb?

Download the service manual at www.mymopar.com (free download) and look in the fuel section, as to the 2bbl carb. Then compare the bends of the choke rod to what's in the service manual. Plus the bends in the choke pull-off rod, too.

CBODY67

In ‘68 they set the mixture screws in the factory and capped them. That is what you are seeing on the front. Check out the ‘68 carb Master Service Technician guide I think it can download it off the Hamtramk website.

The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Library Page (1965 - 1969)