(Another) 383 2 bbl to 4 bbl conversion thread, anyone got a parts list?
- Thread starter edbods
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Captainfury
Member
Hi edbods.
I noticed that you’re also in Australia, like me. I am thinking of a similar project for my 72 fury with a 2 bbl. I’m in Sydney.
How did your upgrade go? Any advice.
What state/ city are you in?
Hah, small world, am in Sydney too. Haven't actually done it yet - still waiting on some bits to arrive, the carby is here and it's very nice, but waiting on the adapter #1481 to arrive, and also haven't bought the 2186 manifold off my mate yet.
Captainfury
Member
As I’m starting to learn- any time I decide to do a repair/upgrade or fix on the Fury or New Yorker, it ALWAYS takes much longer than I initially thought it might. And I’m not a perfectionist.
I thought the Fury would be registered by now, after driving her down from theGold Coast. No brakes, no lights, cluster dead and other issues. That was 14 months ago. I’m getting close, but probably another 3 months then blue slip inspection…..
Haha, a tale as old as time. At least with older cars it's fairly easy to work on them. Thought it was cool how I could drop the heater box without having to take apart the entire dash. Seems like these cars were made prior to (or avoided) the trend of literally designing the car around the heater core. The only problem was that the core was then in a section that was riveted shut which was really annoying. Thank my lucky stars that it was still intact though, a bit of red coolant actually dribbled out when I tilted the whole thing.
Definitely look into things like the ammeter bypass (if yours has one), the RTE voltage limiter and disc brake conversion kits if you're going to do a bit of mountain or hard driving. The FBO or Hirev ECUs are also pretty neat too, FBO having an adjustable rev limiter although it and the RTE limiter is a bit pricey with shipping. the solid state limiter is for the dash and prevents the gauges getting fried if it ever gets shorted or fails, unlike the stock mechanical one where in a failure mode it just sends full power through the gauges and you kiss them goodbye. I also recently had to replace the connector pins on the back of my gauges with 10mm long #2-56 screws after the originals broke. Works like a charm though, although you could go with longer screws.
If your headlight dimmer switch is similar to the phoenixes, it's worth taking apart and cleaning up corrosion off the contacts too. A headlight wiring harness upgrade is also a very worthwhile upgrade, if you have the tools and time you can buy the wiring and relays yourself and put it all together, or buy a premade one. I got mine from octane lighting in the US, worked out to about 100 bucks total, but absolutely worthwhile, the headlights are way brighter and you no longer have battery power going through the whole harness just for the headlights.
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Just an update for anyone following this - I've decided to ditch the Edelbrock 2186 for a Weiand Action Plus 8008. It's actually a chinese copy but it looks and feels just like the OG Weiand one. Actually pretty damn good quality I have to say, and much cheaper too.
Only just found out that the 2186 also has EGR, which I kinda don't want so I decided to go with the 8008. Gonna be a while before I get my hands on the knockoff Weiand intake though.
Only just found out that the 2186 also has EGR, which I kinda don't want so I decided to go with the 8008. Gonna be a while before I get my hands on the knockoff Weiand intake though.
@Gerald Morris I require your assistance once again...sort of. The fuel hose from the steel line to the carb fuel inlet that's on the passenger side - just curious how'd you deal with that? The inlet barb is 3/8" but the stock lines are 5/16 and if you use a fuel filter with 3/8" barbs you still run into the same issue of trying to connect 5/16" hose/line to 3/8" hose/line.
I say sort of because it seems that one can use a 5/8-20 male fitting that has a 5/16" barb, but still curious as to how you dealt with that.
Edit: scratch the above. Seems like 5/8-20 male thread to 5/16" barb is impossible to find...supposedly a Fragola Performance Systems fitting 484205 - BL-#6 male X 5/16 barb fits.
I say sort of because it seems that one can use a 5/8-20 male fitting that has a 5/16" barb, but still curious as to how you dealt with that.
Edit: scratch the above. Seems like 5/8-20 male thread to 5/16" barb is impossible to find...supposedly a Fragola Performance Systems fitting 484205 - BL-#6 male X 5/16 barb fits.
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(I'm not @Gerald Morris . . . my apologies.)
Head over to the www.holley.com online catalog and look in the "fuel fitting" area for a 1969 Camaro Z/28 302 Holley 4160 780cfm carb fuel inlet fitting, which should also fit similar L88HD 427s and later 1970+ Z/28 350 applications. ALL should have a 3/8" fuel line fittings on them.
TWO fuel line fittings that screw into the same float bowl threads. One 5/16" and one 3/8".
The Holley Group now owns the former Earl's Plumbing company for all kinds of braided hose items and such.
So, IF I understand your situation, no need to go into exotic websites when the Holley website might provide the desired answer.
IF you are also seeking to maintain an OEM Chrysler look, check out the fuel filter inlet/outlet sizes for a 1969 440 3x2bbl B-body application or similar years B-body 426 Street HEMI cars, to see if they have a 3/8" fuel line compatibility.
For a Carter AFB carburetor situation, look in the Edelbrock Group's "Performer AFB" area for a similar fitting. Which might also evolve into the larger cfm size AFBs, AVS, and AVS2 carburetors.
MIght also seek out some Holley/Edelbrock-selling regional speed shops, too. They might have the fitting hanging on the wall.
Hope this might help,
CBODY67
Head over to the www.holley.com online catalog and look in the "fuel fitting" area for a 1969 Camaro Z/28 302 Holley 4160 780cfm carb fuel inlet fitting, which should also fit similar L88HD 427s and later 1970+ Z/28 350 applications. ALL should have a 3/8" fuel line fittings on them.
TWO fuel line fittings that screw into the same float bowl threads. One 5/16" and one 3/8".
The Holley Group now owns the former Earl's Plumbing company for all kinds of braided hose items and such.
So, IF I understand your situation, no need to go into exotic websites when the Holley website might provide the desired answer.
IF you are also seeking to maintain an OEM Chrysler look, check out the fuel filter inlet/outlet sizes for a 1969 440 3x2bbl B-body application or similar years B-body 426 Street HEMI cars, to see if they have a 3/8" fuel line compatibility.
For a Carter AFB carburetor situation, look in the Edelbrock Group's "Performer AFB" area for a similar fitting. Which might also evolve into the larger cfm size AFBs, AVS, and AVS2 carburetors.
MIght also seek out some Holley/Edelbrock-selling regional speed shops, too. They might have the fitting hanging on the wall.
Hope this might help,
CBODY67
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Let me take a pic of my setup for you. Remember: I used a stock rigid steel fuel line meant for the old Carter AVS carb and fed it right up to the carb, and used a SHORT length of 3/8" rubber fuel hose to connect it to the 3/8" hose barb provided with the 1405 carb. I flared the end of the 5/16" Inline Tube fuel line to make it better act as a hose barb. Note how I didn't even remove the factory connector, as it might be desirable some day, and it doesn't interfere with my enhanced flare. All very simple and easy. The fuel filter connects to the other end of the fuel line exactly where is should, in front of the engine below the level of the alternator.
Note my use of a fuel line heat shield. If you abide anywhere south of the 40th parallel in North America, a shielded fuel line combats vapor lock.
I was busy the previous 2.5 months working the "Election" and made some sorely needed $$ in decent quantity. NOW I can return to more important stuff, like C body Mopars. In this matter, I see a more hopeful future for us continuing to enjoy driving our American Steel for some time, and, thanks be to God, we shan't be forcibly afflicted with crap asian computer* driven 'Droidmobiles!
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@CBODY67 lol any help is appreciated no matter who you are. I think I didn't word my post properly. What I meant was that the AVS2 has a 3/8" barb as the inlet fitting, but I want to see if there's a 5/16 barb that can screw directly onto the carb so I can use a 5/16" fuel hose to connect it to a 5/16" steel line, because I've already got the fuel filters that use 5/16" barbs on both ends.
@Gerald Morris I did see the flare nut on the hose in your earlier pic but I didn't know at the time it was a flare nut, thought it might've been some adapter or something.
The existing fuel line on mine will likely be ditched, as it is, it goes to the front of the carb, rather than the side, so it'll be too short (don't really want to use too long a hose) to reach near the fuel inlet on the new AVS2. So I want to know if there's a 5/16" barb with a male threaded end that can screw right into where the existing 3/8" barb sits.
I did look up the Fragola 484205 fitting, but that seems to use an AN flare that looks a bit too deep so I don't think that will work.
@Gerald Morris I did see the flare nut on the hose in your earlier pic but I didn't know at the time it was a flare nut, thought it might've been some adapter or something.
The existing fuel line on mine will likely be ditched, as it is, it goes to the front of the carb, rather than the side, so it'll be too short (don't really want to use too long a hose) to reach near the fuel inlet on the new AVS2. So I want to know if there's a 5/16" barb with a male threaded end that can screw right into where the existing 3/8" barb sits.
I did look up the Fragola 484205 fitting, but that seems to use an AN flare that looks a bit too deep so I don't think that will work.
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Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Yah, everything else in my fuel delivery is sized 5/16" excepting the damned 3/8" barb in the carb and the hose clamped to the 5/16" line. It hasn't leaked in 3 years, so I reckon the extra 1/16" of open diameter in the little hose got cinched in plenty tight and my enlarged flare on the end of the tube keeps things snug. You SHOULD be able to find a 5/16" barb w 3/8" NPT threads, rather like this: 18-8109 Hose Barb - 5/16
This **** bedevils all manner of fuel delivery systems after all.
Yeah, I'm gonna take off that fitting to see what kind of thread and depth the hole has.
The owner's manual for the AVS2 states that it uses a 3/8" barb and measuring it seems to confirm this. Starting to wonder if I can get away with just trying to force 5/16" fuel hose onto the 3/8" barb. Metric equivalent would be roughly 8 and 10 mm; surely the hose could still fit on the 3/8" barb...
The owner's manual for the AVS2 states that it uses a 3/8" barb and measuring it seems to confirm this. Starting to wonder if I can get away with just trying to force 5/16" fuel hose onto the 3/8" barb. Metric equivalent would be roughly 8 and 10 mm; surely the hose could still fit on the 3/8" barb...
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Don't do that! You can put LARGER hose on a SMALL barb, but the other way around will split the hose. Spend the $7 and get the Suzuki barb I linked, or something like it. They're not rare.
Oooh right. Yeah I'll go that way then. Now if I can just get the damn fitting off...Edelbrock in their infinite wisdom didn't give enough clearance to fit a damn socket over the inlet hex. Or maybe my socket's just too fat...
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Use a wrench. They didn't torque it down TOO much, as that would split and bust metal there. Or, find a GOOD socket! The best are cast from good steel, so they don't have to be terribly thick walled. I see the cheap crap all the time. Sundry crack-heads mosey by, attempting to sell to me modern sino-slag socket sets which I invariably refuse. Easy to cast thick walled potmetal sockets. Not so easy to refine good steel from low sulphur coke and high grade iron ore. Shop around if you must.
I tried to use a wrench but the jaws were just too fat. There's a protrusion right next to it, where a torx screw sits, and that is preventing any socket or wrench from fully seating. What's really annoying is that I was watching a video on someone replacing that barb with a banjo union, and he just casually whips out a 3/4" deep socket, slips it over the barb like it's nothing and removes it no problem. So I think it's just my sockets are too fat. Maybe he had a 3/8" drive deep socket which had thinner walls.
In any case, I've found someone who has a thin wall 19mm deep socket that I can borrow. The main thing now is trying to see how much depth is available inside the carby to see what kind of fittings I can use.
In any case, I've found someone who has a thin wall 19mm deep socket that I can borrow. The main thing now is trying to see how much depth is available inside the carby to see what kind of fittings I can use.
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Goddamn...had to use a plier wrench to break it loose. Not even a 3/8" drive 19mm socket was thin enough to clear the protrusions around the fitting, not sure how I wasn't able to fit a 19mm open end wrench over it. But I got it loose in the end.
So it appears that the little bump on each fuel inlet casting (marked with arrows below) is to accommodate a little mesh filter for something. This appears to be the maximum depth a fitting can be without seriously damaging it. With some vernier calipers I measured the absolute maximum to be 16mm, a more conservative value to be 14mm (which is the distance between the base of that bump, and the mating surface of the fitting with the carb body).
With that in mind, it's time to go hunting for a suitable fitting.
So it appears that the little bump on each fuel inlet casting (marked with arrows below) is to accommodate a little mesh filter for something. This appears to be the maximum depth a fitting can be without seriously damaging it. With some vernier calipers I measured the absolute maximum to be 16mm, a more conservative value to be 14mm (which is the distance between the base of that bump, and the mating surface of the fitting with the carb body).
With that in mind, it's time to go hunting for a suitable fitting.
Cartel
Active Member
you want that red spring in the hole at the end of the kickdown rod to the front where the green one is also
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
The red spring is attached exactly as per the FSM for the 1968 Chrysler Newport. I doubled the throttle return springs, one inside the other to insure that if one broke, the other would still return the throttle to idle. I HATE having to turn the damned engine off suddenly when a throttle return spring breaks or otherwise comes loose. Not good for the engine at ALL either.
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