360 question?

tbm3fan

Old Man with a Hat
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Since I am on a rebuilding program I am thinking about the next two engines to be done once I finish the FE 410 and Ford Vulcan. One would be the 360-2V in the Polara which is at 76,000 miles. Could go longer but I don't want to rebuild when in my 80s. Now I am not going to change over to a 4 bbl setup. The car came 2V and will stay that way. However, I do know the compression is around 8.5:1. When I did my 68 289 I moved it up from 8.7 to 9.3 via a piston change back in 1985 when there was choices galore. Is there a piston, still out there, that can move the needle to somewhere in the 9.0 to 9.5 range to 1?
 
Absolutely. Do an internet search for 360 LA pistons and you will find many cast, hyper and forged options. If you’re planning on using cast and not balancing the assembly make sure you get the LA pistons and not the magnum pistons because they are likely lighter.
 
I fully understand the desire for more CRs, BUT that can depend upon how much more you want to spend on "more than 87 Pump Octane" fuels over the years.

Keeping the 2bbl means you want a "general use" engine that can burn anything and go anywhere, which is good. Not unlike the similar 383 2bbls. Which can mean keeping the CR under 9.2 or so, basically stock, in other words.

Looking for a performance increase, look to see if MAHLE has some "thin ring" piston/ring sets, which will probably be of a higher CR than stock. Add "plateau honing" in to the mix, too. End result . . . less piston ring friction drag = more power to the flywheel by itself. What happens with the CR is icing on the cake.

In getting the block machined, get it line honed and decked. That will put things at "blue-print specs", which can put the CR closer to advertised levels. From there, possibly just clean up the intake and exh ports for better flow. Maybe even using some David Vizard tricks in the process. OR add a pair of basic Edelbrock aluminum heads for their better combustion chamber and slightly smaller combustion chamber volume. Aiming more for better combustion dynamics.

Another piston option might be "quench dome pistons" (with the stock heads). Effectively makes an open chamber head into a now-more-desired closed chamber head.

With ANY aftermarket piston, find a digital scale and "Weight Match" the aftermarket pistons to OEM piston weights. Most aftermarket pistons are heavier than OEM numbers, by observation. This maintains the "factory balance" exactly without having to touch the crank or rods in that respect.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
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