3D and reproduction thread

[Wonderwagon]

I've talked with one company about 3d printed washer bottles. Depending print layers it may or may not hold water. The printed layers are like stacking round wood dowels. Each layer has thousands of spaces between each printed points that may eventually leak unless a liner of some sort is used.

 

[Big_John]

Its ABS and yes a solvent would blur the lines and probably make it smooth. I was trying for vinyl/leather texture and I don't think the printer (0.4mm print head) can do a more subtle texture. Ironically the belts I have are older and will not fit this repduction. When I tried another set of button belts the buckle did not fit it. Perhaps I screwed up the dimensions. The point being I may need somebodies help to verify the basic dimensions work. I'll likely try one more subtle version and make a decision.

There are two different buckles and the holder is different. The Deluxe belts had a button in the center and used this holder. When I needed two for my car, I found a used single clip on eBay and for the double clip Bill Edwards makes a repop that's not unreasonably priced. All Mopar Seat Belts - Bill and Robin Edwards - Upholstery Mods and More They are listed for E-bodies with a metal bracket, but he does sell just the plastic holder part.

I assume you used this. Mopar seatbelt retainer clip by JustinsJoint

Some discussion on the buckle sizes: 1970 Challenger RT Seat Belt Retainer Clips in Interior
and my want ad for when I was looking for them. WANTED - 1970 and up Seat Belt Clip

 

[live4theking]

The fine lines wouldn't bother me.

 

[bnz84]

crap, somehow i missed your replies. thanks guys

've talked with one company about 3d printed washer bottles. Depending print layers it may or may not hold water. The printed layers are like stacking round wood dowels. Each layer has thousands of spaces between each printed points that may eventually leak unless a liner of some sort is used.

Yes filament is not waterproof and also not food safe unless you treat with solvent to melt it altogether or cover it with something else like epoxy resin. However liquid Resin printing (SLA) does produce a water tight seal. This is what I'm thinking for washer bottles. I would need a 3d scanner which I have access to to create the outside and the slicer which generates the actual print code could be told to not "print" anything on the inside and only print the exterior. I think the trick is finding the right resin that can hold up all by itself. Meaning I know the resin works as a coating over a cracked bottles because I tried it. But this would be ALL resin. Need a function high-ish heat alcohol resistant resin.

Like this - even the right color. Amazon product ASIN B08V8T9NZL

I assume you used this. Mopar seatbelt retainer clip by JustinsJoint

Yes, in my mind I figured this B-body version is what we all have in our Cs. I'll get this one done and then go for the narrower ones with square holes and then the flat ones with no holes at all and the lift buckle. Thats what I have in my car right now which is not correct but they look nice. I could us some measurements on the square hole narrow buckle version if you have a few minutes and a caliper.


I think the bumpy one would be good if the bumps were flattened. Maybe just have 2 versions. Busy time of year. For me I learn better with an application in mind instead of just a tutorial. These buckle things are just practice to help me decide on a printer for myself and then do more necessary things.

 

[Big_John]

Yes filament is not waterproof and also not food safe unless you treat with solvent to melt it altogether or cover it with something else like epoxy resin. However liquid Resin printing (SLA) does produce a water tight seal. This is what I'm thinking for washer bottles. I would need a 3d scanner which I have access to to create the outside and the slicer which generates the actual print code could be told to not "print" anything on the inside and only print the exterior. I think the trick is finding the right resin that can hold up all by itself. Meaning I know the resin works as a coating over a cracked bottles because I tried it. But this would be ALL resin. Need a function high-ish heat alcohol resistant resin.

Like this - even the right color.

I agree that the SLA printing is probably the best way to go. I think the issue would be the size. That would take a much larger printer than most home/hobbyists have. To give an example, the Elegoo Saturn I have is a medium sized machine for home/hobbyist use and that has a print volume of 7.71 x 4.80 x 8.26".

Yes, in my mind I figured this B-body version is what we all have in our Cs. I'll get this one done and then go for the narrower ones with square holes and then the flat ones with no holes at all and the lift buckle. Thats what I have in my car right now which is not correct but they look nice. I could us some measurements on the square hole narrow buckle version if you have a few minutes and a caliper.

I think the bumpy one would be good if the bumps were flattened. Maybe just have 2 versions. Busy time of year. For me I learn better with an application in mind instead of just a tutorial. These buckle things are just practice to help me decide on a printer for myself and then do more necessary things.

I'll be happy to do that.

 

[bnz84]

The new Jupiter printer is 11L x 6W x 11.8H . That might fit even the 69 water reservoir. Wait, you have a printer? Couldnt you have designed and printed your own belt clips? Or is the design part the deal breaker?

 

[Big_John]

The new Jupiter printer is 11L x 6W x 11.8H . That might fit even the 69 water reservoir. Wait, you have a printer? Couldnt you have designed and printed your own belt clips? Or is the design part the deal breaker?

That was before I had the printer.

Design isn't a strong point for me. I got out of manufacturing in the 90's when CAD was just starting to be used. So what little CAD skills I have are self taught. I have been doing stuff in Tinkercad but if you've played with that, you'll know it's really limited. I remember sitting in my tool design night course at a drafting table, no such thing as CAD then... LOL All the design work I did as part of my Toolmaker job was done on paper, usually the back of some memo... In other words, I could design it, but getting it into a CAD program and then to a slicing program is a little tough.

I have 2 printers. One is a Creality Ender 3 Pro filament printer and the other is a Elegoo Saturn S. I've had the filament printer almost a year and the resin printer about 4 months.

I've mostly done fun stuff like this. This was done on the Ender 3.

I have done some simple design stuff like this glue holder for my bench. I had just figured out how to round the corners.

 

[bnz84]

I'm mostly using Tinkercad and will move to Fusion 360. But while it is limited if you are doing functional things then its not too bad - I think I identify with making semi-complex things from more basic pieces because of my Lego days many years ago. Anyway if you have an all metal hot end (300c) then nylon and other filament blends are available to build molding clips...right? Or was that a secret

On my car to do list:
seat belt clips - I guess 3 buckle styles now
triple gauge surround that fits into the ash tray slot that is styled appropriately vintage.
bluetooth interface face to surround an existing module with addition usb charger ports - again with retro styling. to be used alone underdash or under the triple gauge
and lastly a faux radio face to fit over new radio. To look just like original - probs thumbwheel.

 

[Big_John]

Anyway if you have an all metal hot end (300c) then nylon and other filament blends are available to build molding clips...right? Or was that a secret

I did add the all metal hot end and I have added the Big Tree Tech main board and controller board. The main board was a great mod, if nothing else, it runs almost silent now.

I haven't gotten into printing nylon yet.... "Yet" being the key word.

I've thought a number of times about printing molding clips. There's a market for it. I've got a couple clips that people are always looking for and I've been thinking of trying to do something with them. My hang up is scanning it, or if need be, redesigning it.

 

[bnz84]

You know in Tinkercad you can import a pic of a plastic clip and it will turn into a 3d object. First have to convert the pic into SVG file - free online. Best if the pic is mostly black and white like an off white clip on a black background. Thats how I did these...just a pic from web. The arrow one is a pic you put on the forum. Not very good but you get the idea. This is how you can get a jump on a custom looking object.

 

[Big_John]

You know in Tinkercad you can import a pic of a plastic clip and it will turn into a 3d object.

Wow... I didn't know I could do that.

 

[bnz84]

And if pics can get you started then your drafting skills come back into play. Draw your object from multiple sides. Take pics and convert to svg and import. For example, my plan to recreate the curve on the 69 fury thumbwheel radio was to put one on its side and trace the front curve and fill the rest in as a box with one curved face. Then a pic of my drawing and Bobs your uncle. Dont ask me if the resulting object is scaled correctly or how you would combine >1 drawn object. I havnt done it yet. Your/our side molding clips could be traced but if they are not flat then a side profile trace would be needed too. But combining them...not sure. Yes a scanner could do the work but they are expensive.

Which brings me to PHOTOGRAMMETRY. Using just your phone and free online software you can mesh multiple pics together to create a 3d model. Haven't done it but it is very interesting. You need a fairly good computer to run the program I think. Since there are no 69 Fury scale models out there, I was thinking that would be a fun test. Looks like others have already done it but of course I want to customize into a convertible. I am very distracted.

https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/photogrammetry-software#:~:text=What is photogrammetry?,2D or 3D digital models.

https://all3dp.com/1/best-photogrammetry-software/

 

[Big_John]

And if pics can get you started then your drafting skills come back into play. Draw your object from multiple sides. Take pics and convert to svg and import. For example, my plan to recreate the curve on the 69 fury thumbwheel radio was to put one on its side and trace the front curve and fill the rest in as a box with one curved face. Then a pic of my drawing and Bobs your uncle. Dont ask me if the resulting object is scaled correctly or how you would combine >1 drawn object. I havnt done it yet. Your/our side molding clips could be traced but if they are not flat then a side profile trace would be needed too. But combining them...not sure. Yes a scanner could do the work but they are expensive.

Which brings me to PHOTOGRAMMETRY. Using just your phone and free online software you can mesh multiple pics together to create a 3d model. Haven't done it but it is very interesting. You need a fairly good computer to run the program I think. Since there are no 69 Fury scale models out there, I was thinking that would be a fun test. Looks like others have already done it but of course I want to customize into a convertible. I am very distracted.

https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/photogrammetry-software#:~:text=What is photogrammetry?,2D or 3D digital models.

https://all3dp.com/1/best-photogrammetry-software/

I've read a few things about scanning with a cell phone and have been wanting to try it.

 

[Big_John]

And if pics can get you started then your drafting skills come back into play. Draw your object from multiple sides. Take pics and convert to svg and import. For example, my plan to recreate the curve on the 69 fury thumbwheel radio was to put one on its side and trace the front curve and fill the rest in as a box with one curved face. Then a pic of my drawing and Bobs your uncle. Dont ask me if the resulting object is scaled correctly or how you would combine >1 drawn object. I havnt done it yet. Your/our side molding clips could be traced but if they are not flat then a side profile trace would be needed too. But combining them...not sure. Yes a scanner could do the work but they are expensive.

Which brings me to PHOTOGRAMMETRY. Using just your phone and free online software you can mesh multiple pics together to create a 3d model. Haven't done it but it is very interesting. You need a fairly good computer to run the program I think. Since there are no 69 Fury scale models out there, I was thinking that would be a fun test. Looks like others have already done it but of course I want to customize into a convertible. I am very distracted.

https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/photogrammetry-software#:~:text=What is photogrammetry?,2D or 3D digital models.

https://all3dp.com/1/best-photogrammetry-software/

I tried this, but apparently, the Luddite version of my I-phone won't support it. The camera not having the hardware to take the pics needed is the problem.

I barely tolerate having a cell phone, and I have a month to month plan (because I'm cheap like that) so I don't see me upgrading just for this.

 

[bnz84]

If you have an average DSLR camera that works fine. THis video shows one of the free products called Meshroom but your computer needs an expensive video card to make it work well. I gotta try this once I get a new puter.

 

[Xavi3r]

Hi guys,

I uploaded 2 files of the headlight gear :
Tell me if it is the good one and if it is ok.
Download

sorry i did not do much. This is a great project for us to reproduce plastic parts and not as hard as it seems.

short story, when i replaced the gear it broke again after a short time, the plastic used for printing was not hard enough. Best could be to make them in soft metal.

Edit : i remember something: i think that the part was a very tight fit, i wanted to modifiy a little the gear to a easier fit on the metal guide. I had to sand a little if i remember correctly. I would had 0.1mm to the center rectangle hole.

 

[bnz84]

what material did u use that broke?

 

[Xavi3r]

what material did u use that broke?

I do not know, i sent the file to someone to print it. It was plastic, abs maybe ?

 

[bnz84]

to get tough/strong result i think you/we need printers that can handle high heat filaments. all metal hot end that can do ~300C. I'm liking what Im seeing with parts made of carbon fiber nylon and various nylon blends. POM/Delrin filament is available but is difficult to print. My prints are coming from a local maker space and I am limited to PLA, PETG, and ABS. I don't think ABS would last long as a gear. I'll using this experience to pick a good printer for myself. When that happens I'll be in the gear making business!

 

[bnz84]

I'm getting closer to purchasing my own printer and wondering if any current or future owners have any advice. Whatever I get its will be able to print more functional filaments like nylon and will have an enclosure because it will go in my relatively cold basement. I'm familiar with the Bamboo Labs printers and the speed benefits and likely will consider one of the clones that are being made now.

Also, if you have opinions on slicers I would love to hear them.

When I search here, and other forums seems like the needs related to cars are various interior parts which ABS or ASA will work for and more durable heat resistant parts (gears, guides, clips) that one of the nylon blends should work for. I realize other forums will be more suited to these questions but I wanted to start here first.