twostick
Senior Member
A 1/4 of what??
Did you check the end gaps on the rings?
Kevin
Did you check the end gaps on the rings?
Kevin
413 bare block.
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furyus 67
Senior Member
The "1/4" was a joke . Il when Stan asked if I did any measurements i forgot a zero!! Big difference between .015 and .0015
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Ya gotta stay awake in this joint or Ya left in the dust.
twostick
Senior Member
:icon_lol: I wasn't sure because I would consider .0015 a little tight on the rods, especially if I was using rods that hadn't been checked/resized. Plastigauge will tell you what ballpark your clearance is in, but only in that 1 spot. If the big end or the journal isn't round, your clearance will tighten and loosen as the crank turns.
That being said my first few engines were built the same way and ran fine. I even broke another unbreakable rule. I ran a used camshaft with used lifters that came out of bucket. That one ran fine too.
Now that I think I know better, I tend to overthink these things.
Kevin
I've used 2 used cams and lifters in 2 engines, the first was already on the way to dying, I fixed what I knew was wrong but the hidden problems killed it, not the can. The second engine is still going strong.
furyus 67
Senior Member
I've never put a used cam in. I've put new cams, swapped head,intakes, the basics. This is how ever my 1st complete engine build. My rod clearence was.0015-.002. A good friend of mine that has built several engines is hovering over me and walking me through the areas im not too fluent in. The measurements that we have taken he was impressed with. Between that and the comments from the machine shop on the condition of my block and crank I think I'm in good shape, but who knows. We'll find out when I fire it up!! Speaking of cams, I got mine put in last nights long with the timing chain and oil pan. Gonna try to get the rest of the motor together and painted today.
furyus 67
Senior Member
Paints done!! A few things left to wrap it up!
68plymouth383
Senior Member
Please don't use a fram oil filter. I've had strange oil pressure issues with them before.
furyus 67
Senior Member
No fram. I had issues with frams on my talons and never used them again. I just stuck it on there to paint. I'll probly go with STP. Those valve covers and that valley pan are there for paint too.
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furyus 67
Senior Member
It's not a very good pick. But here's where I'm at. Still have to paint the water pump housing(black) finish the valve train and then bolt the intake on. I'm hoping to have it by early next week. I spent yesterday swapping the innards of the 727 from the small block housing to the big block housing.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
The cast valve covers now explain the less than stellar paintwork on the steel ones. 
furyus 67
Senior Member
Yea those do look like poo!The cast valve covers now explain the less than stellar paintwork on the steel ones.
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Looking great!
moper
Well-Known Member
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I know I'm late to the party - but did you seat the thrust on the #3 main, or just bolt that cap in and go?
furyus 67
Senior Member
Considering I'm not sure what your referring to as far as "seating" the thrust bearing probly not. Can you explain further? I have yet to fire the engine as I still have to install lifters,rods and the rest of the valve train. This is my 1st complete build, but am under the watchful eye of an experienced engine builder.
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Yeah, please explain. I'm curious what that means.
furyus 67
Senior Member
Well....here's the heart of my labor of love!!!! Still have to clean up and paint the water pump and alternator bracket and the oil pan I picked up . Then it's Cbody bound!!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
The matte black actually looks good.
furyus 67
Senior Member
Thanks! I'm not sure if I'm going to paint the water pump housing black or orange. I'm leaning towards black but I'm afraid it might give it a bit of a "Halloween " look.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Seating or aligning the thrust bearing. Loosen number 3 main cap till bolts are just snug, pry cap rearward with a pry bar or lg screwdriver, then push crank with a mallet or prybar forward from any other main bearing. Idea being to push crank the cap forward enough to line up with the block half of the bearing providing a even surface of thrust bearing for the crank to act against being pushed forward from auto trans pressure on the T.C. or a pressure plate on a manual trans, depressing the clutch pedal.
Looks very nice BTW.
Looks very nice BTW.
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