65 Imperial with a 413 CI that cranks but won't start

[65 Imperial]

I have a 65 Imperial with a 413 that cranks but wont start I've checked / changed the ballast resistor, carberator, coil, points & rotor. The only thing I haven't changed is the plugs and wires. And it still won't start. Yes, it's getting fuel. I even tried the +battery to the +coil trick per @Big_John and it still wont start. I'm lost for words and/or ideas. I checked the color of the spark from the cap ... It's yellow/orange... Any and all assistance will be greatly appreciated...........

 

[413]

Air
Fuel

Spark, at the right time

Did it run before this?, or did you you just get it?

 

[65 Imperial]

Air
Fuel

Spark, at the right time

Did it run before this?, or did you you just get it?

It ran before the "mechanic" F'd it up knowing he really didn't know anything about points cars (an assumption on my part). Now he's dodging me

 

[detmatt]

Well you’ve thrown a bunch of parts at it, several of which are known to be bad right out of the box these days unless you know where to get them from. My guess is at least one of the new parts you installed is junk, condenser maybe?

 

[1970FuryConv]

It ran before the "mechanic" F'd it up knowing he really didn't know anything about points cars (an assumption on my part). Now he's dodging me

If it's getting fuel, the spark plugs may not be getting spark.
Have you checked point gap with a feeler gauge?
Have you checked to see that the f'd up mechanic left distributor rotor pointed at #1 tower on the distributor cap when timing mark near top dead center? This should happen at top of compression stroke, not exhaust stroke.
Have you put a timing light on number 1 spark plug wire to see that it is firing regularly with every turn of the engine while cranking?
Member @Trailer Park is in Nevada. Maybe he knows a member in Las Vegas who will help you.

 

[Big_John]

I have a 65 Imperial with a 413 that cranks but wont start I've checked / changed the ballast resistor, carberator, coil, points & rotor. The only thing I haven't changed is the plugs and wires. And it still won't start. Yes, it's getting fuel. I even tried the +battery to the +coil trick per @Big_John and it still wont start. I'm lost for words and/or ideas. I checked the color of the spark from the cap ... It's yellow/orange... Any and all assistance will be greatly appreciated...........

View attachment 658323 View attachment 658319

View attachment 658320

View attachment 658321

View attachment 658322

I looked at these pics and spotted two things in the distributor. First is, and I can't tell for sure, but it looks like that distributor wire might be turned enough that the wire connector might be touching the plate. See red arrow.

The major thing is look at the gap between the rotor and the points rub block. That looks like it's so large that the points aren't opening. Red circle.

I think the question to ask is if you know how to properly set the point gap? Not trying to insult or talk down, it's just sometimes guys just aren't familiar with the old technology,

 

[Jakter]

I checked the color of the spark from the cap ... It's yellow/orange... Any and all assistance will be greatly appreciated...........

Condenser.

 

[Toolmanmike]

Well you’ve thrown a bunch of parts at it, several of which are known to be bad right out of the box these days unless you know where to get them from. My guess is at least one of the new parts you installed is junk, condenser maybe?

Condenser was my first thought as well.

 

[Toolmanmike]

I looked at these pics and spotted two things in the distributor. First is, and I can't tell for sure, but it looks like that distributor wire might be turned enough that the wire connector might be touching the plate. See red arrow.

The major thing is look at the gap between the rotor and the points rub block. That looks like it's so large that the points aren't opening. Red circle.

I think the question to ask is if you know how to properly set the point gap? Not trying to insult or talk down, it's just sometimes guys just aren't familiar with the old technology,

View attachment 658442

50+ degrees of dwell. @65 Imperial, the point gap is set with the rubbing block of the points on the point of the distributor cam. .017 will get you there.

 

[57fury440]

From that picture it looks like the points are not set correctly. Big_John circled the area and if that is the case, it will never start. Points are not that difficult to set up. The factory manual should tell you how to do it.

 

[Jakter]

The major thing is look at the gap between the rotor and the points rub block. That looks like it's so large that the points aren't opening. Red circle.

If the points aren't opening he wouldn't have any spark.


How to tell if distributor points are bad?


First check for power to the coil. If you have 12v there, then manually open the points and check for spark from the coil. If no spark, remove the wire from the points and manually "spark" it to ground. If spark, then problem is bad points or condensor.

Points/Condensor Troubleshooting - Type2.com​

Type2.com

 

[57fury440]

If it was running before the "mechanic" got his hands on it, do you still have the points and condenser he took out? If you do, I would try putting them back in to see what happens. What was the reason he was working on the car in the first place? Was it running poorly and you wanted a tune up? I would start buy getting the dist. set up, so it is on the number one cylinder and then check the firing order. Make sure he didn't mess up the plug wires along with whatever else he did.

 

[65 Imperial]

I looked at these pics and spotted two things in the distributor. First is, and I can't tell for sure, but it looks like that distributor wire might be turned enough that the wire connector might be touching the plate. See red arrow.

The major thing is look at the gap between the rotor and the points rub block. That looks like it's so large that the points aren't opening. Red circle.

I think the question to ask is if you know how to properly set the point gap? Not trying to insult or talk down, it's just sometimes guys just aren't familiar with the old technology,

View attachment 658442

No offense taken... I know nothing about cars with points in them... I appreciate the help

 

[65 Imperial]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!

A REAL mechanic fixed it while I was transporting loads to and from the military base today.... He said it was out of time along with some other stuff about the distributor, etc. That thing is purring like a kitten

Thanks for all the help....

 

[Big_John]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!

A REAL mechanic fixed it while I was transporting loads to and from the military base today.... He said it was out of time along with some other stuff about the distributor, etc. That thing is purring like a kitten

Thanks for all the help....

It would be good to know what the issues were.

That would help you understand and also might help anyone else having similar issues.

Glad you got it fixed!!

 

[65 Imperial]

It would be good to know what the issues were.

That would help you understand and also might help anyone else having similar issues.

Glad you got it fixed!!

I'll have him text me exactly what was wrong and update my post later today...

 

[65 Imperial]

@Big_John This is what he did:

Here's the timing and gap information that he used used below. He found it on an imperial club website... He put the spark plug wires in order (obviously the site I got my firing order from was wrong ), he adjusted dwell to 29. Adjusted idle set screw after he warmed the car up. He replaced the spark plugs. And checked for exhaust gasses in cooling system with the tester.



The spark plugs were SHOT!!!!!!



Now she's running like never before... A few more adjustments and I'll be all the way ready for whatever

 

[Big_John]

Here's the timing and gap information that he used used below. He found it on an imperial club website... He put the spark plug wires in order (obviously the site I got my firing order from was wrong ), he adjusted dwell to 29. Adjusted idle set screw after he warmed the car up. He replaced the spark plugs. And checked for exhaust gasses in cooling system with the tester.

Here's what you need to do... Download a '65 Chrysler/Imperial service manual from MyMopar That will have all the correct specs for your car. There's a lot of misinformation out there on the intrawebs that will trip you up.

 

[Arnoldsat]

As Derek @vicegripgarage would say, after eyeballing those sparkalators: She's running richer than Oprah

 

[57fury440]

Those plugs didn't get that way from anything the first guy did. They look pretty old, and that might have been the reason why it wasn't running well in the first place.