66 Fury III Manual to Power Drum

[landers66furyiii]

I just got a 1966 Fury III with factory manual drums. I am redoing the entire brake system(lines, shoes, hardware) and keeping drum all around. I have a Bendix Booster and am going to put a tandem master cylinder in. My question is, besides firewall reinforcement is there anything else that would need to be changed to convert from manual to power brakes. TIA

 

[FURYGT]

I just got a 1966 Fury III with factory manual drums. I am redoing the entire brake system(lines, shoes, hardware) and keeping drum all around. I have a Bendix Booster and am going to put a tandem master cylinder in. My question is, besides firewall reinforcement is there anything else that would need to be changed to convert from manual to power brakes. TIA

The brake pedal height, and the length of the push rod are longer on a manual break car. The factory conversion kit used a bracket that pushed the booster and master cylinder out farther from the fire firewall to accommodate for the longer pushrod.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Change out the pedal to a power brake pedal - the same from 65-68 for C bodies. Many out there in wrecking yards. Easy bolt in.

Note that the Bendix booster (if it's the dual diaphragm one used for DISC brakes) may be a bit overboosted when used on a drum system. I suggest finding the correct drum booster (I think it's Kelsey-Hayes or Midland-Ross - can't remember) and using that. Just like the proper power brake pedal setup, there must be many many of them out there in wrecking yard land.

That Bendix booster (if it looks like the picture below) is worth money - it could easily fund your purchase of all the parts noted above.

The drum brake booster looks like this: