66 Fury rear brakes

[Lawnjockey]

Quick question. I already removed the main springs on the rear brakes, but does this look correct for the rest of the brake setup? The other pic is the front brakes. I feel I am missing a few things.
LJ

 

[MoPar~Man]

 

[Lawnjockey]

Thank you Mopar~Man. That is what I thought. Time to order some more parts.

 

[Big_John]

Quick question. I already removed the main springs on the rear brakes, but does this look correct for the rest of the brake setup? The other pic is the front brakes. I feel I am missing a few things.
LJ

View attachment 677253

View attachment 677254

Those are manual adjusters and not the self adjusters, so the cable and all that aren't needed. Simpler set up.

Note there are no cable or cable guide etc. , so don't order those parts.

The big tip off is the thicker star on the adjuster wheel and the spring that sits against the adjuster. The correct adjuster might be hard to find, although the self adjuster version is available. I'd clean those parts up and reuse them.

 

[MoPar~Man]

What is the logic or thinking behind the Police and Heavy Duty version not having the auto-adjuster setup?

 

[Big_John]

What is the logic or thinking behind the Police and Heavy Duty version not having the auto-adjuster setup?

I've never heard a solid reason for them in police/taxi packages.

A lot of the 60's muscle cars used manual adjusters and I'd heard that was done so you could get rid of the parasitic drag for drag racing. I take that with a grain of salt though.

It has been my experience that the self adjusters will fail quite miserably when they do fail, so a high mileage car like a taxi or cop car it could be one less failure point.

Someone else may have some insight, but that's about all I have on the subject.

Of course, I do have to wonder what brought about manual adjusters on this particular car. Police package? Taxi? Tow package? Or just heavy duty brakes?

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

I've never heard a solid reason for them in police/taxi packages.

Taxi cabs rarely back up thus making the self adjusters not really useful, plus police & taxi see the service bay more often than a retail vehicle. Also practically every driver I've come across makes what I would say is a 'Lazy' reverse stop that never really activate the self adjusters.

.

 

[MoPar~Man]

I'm not sure if this video is totally correct:



The main problem I see is that it shows the adjuster not always in contact with the star wheel. Note that it does not mention that reverse braking is necessary to cause wheel to advance, which I tend to think is correct. I think that normal forward braking will also cause the adjuster to advance the wheel when necessary.

My '67 Monaco has spent the last 20 years in storage, and as a result one of the adjuster cables had rusted to the point of becoming non-functional. I consider that to be the result of long-term dis-use, the exact opposite to the operating conditions that a taxi or police car would experience.

 

[MoPar~Man]

While we're on the topic, I'll just drop this here...

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

I'm not sure if this video is totally correct:



The main problem I see is that it shows the adjuster not always in contact with the star wheel. Note that it does not mention that reverse braking is necessary to cause wheel to advance, which I tend to think is correct. I think that normal forward braking will also cause the adjuster to advance the wheel when necessary.

My '67 Monaco has spent the last 20 years in storage, and as a result one of the adjuster cables had rusted to the point of becoming non-functional. I consider that to be the result of long-term dis-use, the exact opposite to the operating conditions that a taxi or police car would experience.

Simpleton video full of mis-information. Read the Brakes and Wheels image John posted up, it clearly states "when brakes applied when car is moving in reverse" Brakes applied are the 2 key words here and when I stated 'Lazy stop' I'm referring to automatic transmission car drivers as they have a tendency to go into drive from reverse with a slushbox before coming to a complete hard stop. This happens less with a manual transmission as when the clutch is full engaged you will still keep rolling.

I've seen adjusters that are worn by the star wheel ie the nice squared edge that engages the star wheel notches making the adjuster useless, this can be caused by a mechanic not using a small screwdriver to disengage the adjuster when servicing or inspecting the brakes forcing the adjuster to saw off the edge (backing off for drum removal), wrong grease (or no grease) used in the adjuster threads freezing up the adjuster from age and moisture contamination. Spring in wrong positions and locations (*** backwards etc)
Ya Da Ya Da Ya... can we all say 'Midas'?

 

[Lawnjockey]

Those are manual adjusters and not the self adjusters, so the cable and all that aren't needed. Simpler set up.

Note there are no cable or cable guide etc. , so don't order those parts.

The big tip off is the thicker star on the adjuster wheel and the spring that sits against the adjuster. The correct adjuster might be hard to find, although the self adjuster version is available. I'd clean those parts up and reuse them.


View attachment 677282

That is crazy. I noticed on my brakes that the adjusting star was thicker, but I thought it was weird that the spring sat right on top of it. This photo really helps me out. Thank you so much. Now where is the best place to order shoes and drums.

 

[MoPar~Man]

Simpleton video full of mis-information. Read the Brakes and Wheels image John posted up, it clearly states "when brakes applied when car is moving in reverse" Brakes applied are the 2 key words here and when I stated 'Lazy stop' I'm referring to automatic transmission car drivers as they have a tendency to go into drive from reverse with a slushbox before coming to a complete hard stop. This happens less with a manual transmission as when the clutch is full engaged you will still keep rolling.

I know what the document says about reverse braking.

I stand by my observation that the adjuster arm will arc up during any braking (forward or reverse) and if the excursion is enough then it will engage the next tooth and advance the wheel. It may take more shoe travel when braking in the forward direction to make that happen, but it will happen.

 

[Big_John]

Now where is the best place to order shoes and drums.

I buy most of that stuff from NAPA.

 

[Darter6]

Those are manual adjusters and not the self adjusters, so the cable and all that aren't needed. Simpler set up.

If you are like most of us and don't drive it every day,and guessing you put less than 10,000 miles annually manual adjusters are just fine.

 

[Big_John]

I've seen adjusters that are worn by the star wheel ie the nice squared edge that engages the star wheel notches making the adjuster useless, this can be caused by a mechanic not using a small screwdriver to disengage the adjuster when servicing or inspecting the brakes forcing the adjuster to saw off the edge (backing off for drum removal), wrong grease (or no grease) used in the adjuster threads freezing up the adjuster from age and moisture contamination. Spring in wrong positions and locations (*** backwards etc)
Ya Da Ya Da Ya... can we all say 'Midas'?

I've seen a few where the cable has broken at the top and the frayed end has wound itself up and even gotten between the shoe and the drum. I like to replace that cable with new when I swap brake shoes. A wire wheel on the threads and a couple dabs of grease usually takes care of the adjuster.

 

[Lawnjockey]

I buy most of that stuff from NAPA.

Unfortunately my local NAPA didn't carry the rear drums and were very limited on shoes.