Just busy busy busy building the budget first this old gal. She in decent stock condition, family owned since new with just over 30k original miles. She's been sitting in the garage for 8 years untouched and roared to life with a new battery and fresh fuel with a quick fuel carb new plugs wires and cap and rotor, also valve cover gaskets and oil change. What I want is reliable but strong. I don't read many magazines but speak to a lot of Mopar guys with bigger budgets than mine. That's why I asked you fellas for your opinions. Im willing to pay a bit more for peace of mind and the confidence to drive her from Pa to Fla every summer without fear of a 500 mile tow. I absolutely appreciated the input.
67' 300 - 440 To Stroke or Not?
- Thread starter Cortez
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twostick
Senior Member
If it truly only has 30,000 miles on it, all it needs is the oil changed and a tune up and it appears you have most of that covered.
If you are truly paranoid, then replace all the belts and hoses while the hood is up and have a nice trip.
Kevin
If you are truly paranoid, then replace all the belts and hoses while the hood is up and have a nice trip.
Kevin
Agree with two stick.
Out of curiosity, is this a U code TNT motor?
Out of curiosity, is this a U code TNT motor?
meant HP L code
No not HP its the K motor, wasn't sure about the damage from sitting stagnant for 8 years, the garage has a dehumidifier but there was a lot of white chalky build up on some of the metal which is why I was wondering about a possible rebuild.
Should be fine with a tuneup and other basics mentioned.
Definitely don’t think rebuild unless you find a problem.
congrats on nice find.
Definitely don’t think rebuild unless you find a problem.
congrats on nice find.
SuperDave
Member
I say go for it! I would love to blow a wad of bucks into my Turd if my budget (& wife) would allow it; poked & stroked, 440 Source aluminum heads, long tube headers, Holley Sniper EFI, make it produce 600+ ponies at the wheels. But doing so would necessitate upgrading the rear axle, as the 8.25" unit it currently wears (new and improved with posi!) isn't rated to handle more than 400HP & would likely grenade before long with my heavy right foot.
Go for it! 440Source has stroker kits available with new forged cranks, bearings and pistons that will drop in with little to no mods to the block. They do recommend boring the motor out to .035" to set the rings and insure a tight seal out of the box, but if it were me, I'd go for broke and punch it out .060". There's no replacement for displacement! And torque? Who wouldn't love their barge to drop the hammer at 70, downshift into 2nd gear and boil the tires in a fury of smoke & noise?
Go for it! 440Source has stroker kits available with new forged cranks, bearings and pistons that will drop in with little to no mods to the block. They do recommend boring the motor out to .035" to set the rings and insure a tight seal out of the box, but if it were me, I'd go for broke and punch it out .060". There's no replacement for displacement! And torque? Who wouldn't love their barge to drop the hammer at 70, downshift into 2nd gear and boil the tires in a fury of smoke & noise?
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Lee Phillips
New Member
Lee Phillips
New Member
Well said!
fury fan
Senior Member
A 30k mile pre-smog 440? I'd give it a mid-level diagnosis (oil pressure, compression check, leakdown check) and go from there. If all OK, do some bolt-ons as budget allows?
One of the near-strongest running cars I've ever had was a 66 Nupe with a 350hp 440, log manifolds/2-1/4" dual exh, 600 Eddy and alum intake. And 2.76 gears. Not a barn-stormer, but a good combo with the 2.76 and from 25mph and up it would never stop pulling. And got 16mpg usually, too.
One interesting thing is you have a 67, so it has -915 closed-chamber heads, but with the smaller 1.60" exh valve. You could have those valves 'opened' up to 1.74 and put in a TNT/Magnum/Super Commando cam (or modern equivalent) and some HP exh manifolds and get a noticeable boost. But with that said, there's $1500 worth of parts/labor there EASILY.
How much do you need, and how much do you want to spend???
One of the near-strongest running cars I've ever had was a 66 Nupe with a 350hp 440, log manifolds/2-1/4" dual exh, 600 Eddy and alum intake. And 2.76 gears. Not a barn-stormer, but a good combo with the 2.76 and from 25mph and up it would never stop pulling. And got 16mpg usually, too.
One interesting thing is you have a 67, so it has -915 closed-chamber heads, but with the smaller 1.60" exh valve. You could have those valves 'opened' up to 1.74 and put in a TNT/Magnum/Super Commando cam (or modern equivalent) and some HP exh manifolds and get a noticeable boost. But with that said, there's $1500 worth of parts/labor there EASILY.
How much do you need, and how much do you want to spend???
2.76 behind a 440 are great, especially for long distance cruising at 75-80. It’ll never break a sweat.
With near 500 ft lbs, especially with minor mods fury fan suggests it has plenty of power.
Install 2.97 or 3.23s it will be happy also.
With near 500 ft lbs, especially with minor mods fury fan suggests it has plenty of power.
Install 2.97 or 3.23s it will be happy also.
volksworld
Well-Known Member
even with 30k i wouldnt trust 50 year old plastic timing gear teeth....so if everything (comp,leakdown,oil pressure) checks out good i'd replace the timing chain before you seriously beat on it or you'll be pulling teeth out of the oil pickup...you can pull the distributor and look down theres a small window where you can see the top of the chain and see what you've got in there...idk exactly what year they went to plastic...hopefully someone more knowledgable can chime in
M0esy
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I'd recommend minor upgrades on rebuild, and not do stroker engine. The reason for that is the heads on your engine, and on mine as well, are very restrictive. Chrysler changed that in the 1968 model year. A stock rebuild of the long block, windage tray, maybe upgraded cam and 440 source aluminum "Stealth" heads are what I'd recommend, and were what I was considering for my '67 300 before I got married over 5 years ago.
I'm so grateful for all the input, I will do comp, leak and pilot pressure tests first and see what's what and progress accordingly. I'd like to get the squeaky suspension quieted down and a few cosmetics taken care of so I will only consider immediate stroking if she fails the tests and requires a full rebuild. I'd like to get a decent summer of driving under my belt and get the wife as in love with her as I am, then the budget won't be as strict. How do I go about the gears are there kits or do I shop salvage yards this is an entirely uncharted area for me.
fury fan
Senior Member
Rear gears might be available at a specialty junkyard, or at some of the internet driveline stores.
Fopr your 8-3/4" axle:
Getting a 'new' ready-to-install gearset assembly is probably about $1250 nowadays, but might be the safest bet since new turf for you. Swapping isn't terribly difficult but there are a few detail items to setting the axle bearing endplay (and it's heavy). When the gearset comes out it's an excellent time to re-grease those axle bearings. The fronts are generally done at brake jobs, but the 'maintenance free' rear axle causes those to get neglected.
You'll need to change the speedo drive gear in the trans to match the gears and tire size, but fortunately a 66-newer trans uses a gear that is still readily available. Google the chart on the speedo gears and where to get them.
Fopr your 8-3/4" axle:
Getting a 'new' ready-to-install gearset assembly is probably about $1250 nowadays, but might be the safest bet since new turf for you. Swapping isn't terribly difficult but there are a few detail items to setting the axle bearing endplay (and it's heavy). When the gearset comes out it's an excellent time to re-grease those axle bearings. The fronts are generally done at brake jobs, but the 'maintenance free' rear axle causes those to get neglected.
You'll need to change the speedo drive gear in the trans to match the gears and tire size, but fortunately a 66-newer trans uses a gear that is still readily available. Google the chart on the speedo gears and where to get them.
FYI the speedo gear change is super easy. It’s in the speedo drive housing on the trans.
Also get some advice on the correct speedo gear considering both the new rear gear and the tire height.
fury fan
Senior Member
Excellent point, Tallhair, changing 'a gear' in the trans might suggest a major task, and you are right to point out that it is fairly simple. Must pay attention to the cast-in clocking marks of the adapter when reinstalling it with that new drive gear.
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