'67 Fury III Sport restore or restomod

We get a few of these threads per year.
'Bought my first C-body, don't know anything about them, and want to treat it all apart, remove the fabulous factory suspension's engineering, and turn this car into something it's not (nor will ever be).' Then the main question is 'tell me everything I need to know to do all of this?'

The factory suspension is far superior to anything available back then. Other companies used leafsprings, but nobody optimized them like Chrysler did.
The torsion bars are also an extremely good system.
You best bet is to peruse FirmFeel and see what's available and what that costs. X3 in cost to retrofit something else that likely won't work much better, if at all.

Most resto-mods are are not worth the cost to build them (as far as the inevitable resale).
Without seeing pics of the car, you might be poised to destroy a really nice old car.
Well you have to start somewhere... The more people interested the more customers the parts maker have the longer they keep making parts, seems like a good problem for the forums lol.

From what I've gathered from everyone who have shared their knowledge, putting in coilovers just won't be worth the cost. And could actually make it worse. I think Big John said it best, getting it running and enjoy driving it as it is before I start to modify it. This car is matching numbers and in great shape. so I am hesitant to change anything. It will need a new tank, fuel lines, breaks, at least. And if I do the breaks I'm converting it to disk. As of now that's the only modification planned. Then I'll look into FirmFeel and other suspension upgrades.

I'll post up some pictures next week. The car is in my garage and I won't be out there until this weekend. It's been in indoor storage since 1997. I'm excited to work on it.
 
long over due photo. just moved. got a couple house projects to finish up before I can start. should be able to start by the end of summer.

1000007741.jpg
 
If you want a resto mod and Performance you are starting with the wrong car. Too much tonnage there. Get a fox body mustang or a 63 nova.
I have a 67 Fury & you're never going to make it handle well & your'e also destroying a survivor car it sounds like. Get yourself a Duster or Dart or something lighter. I also have a 22 Challenger & while it handles well for what is it it has the same drawback HEAVY - it will never "carve corners"....
 
Can you please clarify what is meant by this? Thanks!
The complete vehicle aftermarket parts situation is built around sales volume of the parts they sell. When they buy new batches of parts, they position the number of parts they order by past sales and future sales projections. When sales consistently drop below a certain number, "phase-out" starts. No new parts are ordered and the part number is removed from the catalogs. No different than any other retail business. Keeping things in stock that sell rather than sit on the shelves.

The orientation of Scarebird is neat, but subject to these things. Over the ten years since I found that website, this has already happened several times.

CBODY67
 
long over due photo. just moved. got a couple house projects to finish up before I can start. should be able to start by the end of summer.

View attachment 653586
Just saw this, and not sure how I missed it. Look at that beauty. That thing is gorgeous, and man what a fun build it'll be!

With regards to the resto-mod, along with the different comments/questions others have shared, there are a few questions I'd recommend that you ask yourself (if you've never done something similar). I don't claim to be an expert on the topic of resto-mods by any means, but I've built several jeeps/rock crawlers that were adapted from various donor vehicles, and I'll aptly admit that my current resto-mod build is the first hot-rod/car I've played with. I tried to offer some of what went into my thought process as an example of what ultimately led me to pull the trigger on my build.

1) What are your ultimate goals for the car? Are you wanting to keep it a family heirloom, or sell it one day?
- My car is the car that I rode home from the hospital in when I was born. There's no way on earth that my car will ever be sold unless one of my children sell it after they inherit it. If you're looking to sell it and you're committed to resto-modding it, I'd recommend you build it according to the customer base you'll be looking to sell to.
2) How dedicated and patient are you?
- Adaptation of any system from old to new, or whatever the case may be is incredibly difficult, and can be severely frustrating. My car has been under construction for 10 years now (the reasons why are a different topic of discussion). While many others are in a position to build their cars in a quicker fashion than I am, it still begs the question as to will you be able to stick with the build to fruition? My build also took different turns as wrenches were thrown into the mix, will you be able to problem solve through those issues as they come up?
3) What's the extent of your fabrication/machining capabilities?
- The aftermarket C-body support is growing, however it's still severely lacking relative to other cars out there. That means you get to figure out how you're going to build something that was never intended to go where you're wanting to put it. It's not impossible, but even with off-the-shelf parts for various cars/trucks/jeeps, it's been my experience that many times these parts don't exactly fit the actual application, and you're stuck with voiding the warranty on something you just bought by modifying it to suit your needs.

I'm genuinely asking these questions in the most respectful way I can, so please don't take them as a personal attack by any means. I'm not a numbers matching purist by any means (obviously), but it still hurts to see one of these beautiful boats sacrificed at the altar of "I got in over my head and lost interest to see it through." Not saying this is you by any means, I've just seen and finished projects like that and figured I'd chip in my 2 red dimes.
 
it still hurts to see one of these beautiful boats sacrificed at the altar of "I got in over my head and lost interest to see it through."
That's a big one for me. I've seen it many times where the project gets left behind and then it gets scrapped or parted out. It could be a lot of reasons like cost or time... Or let's just say "life gets in the way". I've finished projects and bailed on a couple when it got too much for me.

I take my hat off to anyone that spends years working on a project. I don't have that focus anymore.
 
I have a 67 Fury & you're never going to make it handle well & your'e also destroying a survivor car it sounds like. Get yourself a Duster or Dart or something lighter. I also have a 22 Challenger & while it handles well for what is it it has the same drawback HEAVY - it will never "carve corners"....
When the '67 C-bodies were new, the term "carving corners" was not in general use, IIRC. "Handle Well" certainly applied to any Chrysler product when compared with similar GM and especially Ford products, as to turn-in response and understeer. Until Chevy got their F41 front/reare sway bar option on the Impalas in 1969, with Pontiac being in that same general timeframe on GTOs.

Additionally, the "Handel Well" is more highly variable depending upon what the driver wants, so that is not a generic term of sorts. Soft ride, firm ride, stiff ride, ease of steering effort or "firm feel" effort, "responsive steering" meaning more than just the car changing directions when the steering wheel is turned, too.

In a 1970s definition of "corner carving", the bulk of "front sway bar only" Chrysler products would do that activity better than similar Ford and GM vehicles. Add 2psi more front tire pressure and things would get better. Yet MOST C-body drivers would never get anywhere close to the limits of their cars and tires capabilities, slowing down when "tire noise" started.

Can they do better? Certainly! Modern electric-assist power steering would be one change. Plus a steering gear that is easier to "reverse", too. Meaning it can go from being turned one direction and then not resist quick turning to the other direction, and back again. Figure out a way to mount the front sway bar behind the mid-sump oil pan but in front of the steering linkage would be a good plus, too. Then a rear bar to help balance things out. Add some modern 17" BFG Comp TA rubber into the mix. Yep, one size is an almost perfect OD match for the H78-14 tires of old, while still putting more rubber on the road, as to tread width.

The issue of "weight" will always be an issue when transient maneuvers are executed. Which is where suspension geometry (something else Chrysler products are usually good in, compared to other brands, as to camber angles, lateral roll stiffness, and good grip come into play. Keeping the car flatter and gripping well in such situations. AND then setting it up to have an athletic feel to the whole thing. It has to FEEL like it's having fun, too! Kind of like getting out of a K-car chassis into an LH car chassis vehicle, for example.

The first LX cars might have had Mercedes-origin underpinnings and had great handling dynamics, but the first 300s I drove had none of the prior LH cars' athletic/enjoyable driving feel. Numbed-down, to me. Which got changed when the later cars (after Sergio came on-board) got that athletic feel back.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
How are the quarters and trunk floor? Looks to be a good front section
Long over due replies lol. I like to stay busy.
Rust is very manageble. Nothing "bad". but yep there's some rust that'll need to be delt with. The truck and floor pans are great! thank God. The rear right quarter will need a bit of touch up for sure. I'll know more once I drop the tank. Story is the car was in a garage since the 90s. And by the looks of it it's true.
 
I have a 67 Fury & you're never going to make it handle well & your'e also destroying a survivor car it sounds like. Get yourself a Duster or Dart or something lighter. I also have a 22 Challenger & while it handles well for what is it it has the same drawback HEAVY - it will never "carve corners"....
Duster is sitting next to it atm. It needs more metal work. But yeah I might adjust the plan as I research more.
 
That's a big one for me. I've seen it many times where the project gets left behind and then it gets scrapped or parted out. It could be a lot of reasons like cost or time... Or let's just say "life gets in the way". I've finished projects and bailed on a couple when it got too much for me.

I take my hat off to anyone that spends years working on a project. I don't have that focus anymore.
Well we never know what tomorrow will be and until you start your project it's just a dream you keep with you. Even as your project is on going it'll take a while unless you have a money printer, and again who knows what will happen. I think these cars have a lot of potential beyond what they were made to at the factory.
 
Just saw this, and not sure how I missed it. Look at that beauty. That thing is gorgeous, and man what a fun build it'll be!

With regards to the resto-mod, along with the different comments/questions others have shared, there are a few questions I'd recommend that you ask yourself (if you've never done something similar). I don't claim to be an expert on the topic of resto-mods by any means, but I've built several jeeps/rock crawlers that were adapted from various donor vehicles, and I'll aptly admit that my current resto-mod build is the first hot-rod/car I've played with. I tried to offer some of what went into my thought process as an example of what ultimately led me to pull the trigger on my build.

1) What are your ultimate goals for the car? Are you wanting to keep it a family heirloom, or sell it one day?
- My car is the car that I rode home from the hospital in when I was born. There's no way on earth that my car will ever be sold unless one of my children sell it after they inherit it. If you're looking to sell it and you're committed to resto-modding it, I'd recommend you build it according to the customer base you'll be looking to sell to.
2) How dedicated and patient are you?
- Adaptation of any system from old to new, or whatever the case may be is incredibly difficult, and can be severely frustrating. My car has been under construction for 10 years now (the reasons why are a different topic of discussion). While many others are in a position to build their cars in a quicker fashion than I am, it still begs the question as to will you be able to stick with the build to fruition? My build also took different turns as wrenches were thrown into the mix, will you be able to problem solve through those issues as they come up?
3) What's the extent of your fabrication/machining capabilities?
- The aftermarket C-body support is growing, however it's still severely lacking relative to other cars out there. That means you get to figure out how you're going to build something that was never intended to go where you're wanting to put it. It's not impossible, but even with off-the-shelf parts for various cars/trucks/jeeps, it's been my experience that many times these parts don't exactly fit the actual application, and you're stuck with voiding the warranty on something you just bought by modifying it to suit your needs.

I'm genuinely asking these questions in the most respectful way I can, so please don't take them as a personal attack by any means. I'm not a numbers matching purist by any means (obviously), but it still hurts to see one of these beautiful boats sacrificed at the altar of "I got in over my head and lost interest to see it through." Not saying this is you by any means, I've just seen and finished projects like that and figured I'd chip in my 2 red dimes.
Thanks for the reply and interest.
1. To make something fun. Everything is for sale for the right price.
2. I get bored easy, not bored of doing stuff, bored of doing nothing. This is a project to keep busy. As of late I'm dealing with a house fire from 2023 which has slowed me down a lot.
3. I can fab most basic stuff, advance/structural stuff will get down at a shop. I am looking at a mill, plasma cnc, ect for my shop. Right now just set with basic cutting welding tools.

My skin is thicker than a rhinos ***. Internet words can't hurt me... unless they paid me enough lol.

Will I start this project? Yeah most likely unless some life events prevent it.
Will I finish this project? Yeah unless ^^^
Will the car be what I first thought it'd be? Nope, not a chance in hell. But I'll try.

Big thing holding me back right now from starting is I my shop isn't done and I don't have a concrete pad to work on. To hell if I'm going to roll around in the dirt... Also it's hot here so I decided to setup a pool first.
 
My skin is thicker than a rhinos ***. Internet words can't hurt me... unless they paid me enough lol.
haha 10-4 brother. You'd be amazed at how quickly the off road world gets ticked off when you question their fab or design. Coming from that world, I learned that the word "custom" just means someone threw a bunch of steel at something and hacked it all together with a bunch of goose-poop welds. It's almost disgusting what some guys from that world try to pass off as "custom", like I'm talking scary stuff to where their rig would need to be brought home in a bucket if they hit the wrong pothole.

Sounds like you're going all out with your setup. I'd kill for the room for a CNC plasma table and a mill, but I'll be waiting a bit. I've got a buddy that has one, but even then, sometimes it's just easier to send the DXF file to SendCutSend and have them laser cut it or waterjet it.
 
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