'67 newport brake drums

imperial

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I have a '67 Newport and I was looking at places that have the front brake drums for sale. However, it looks like they just have the drum and not the hub and drum assembly and I am just wondering if anyone knows where to get both the drum and hub assembly or how I should process. I don't need them now but, I feel I should know what to do know before I need to replace the drums.
 
The drums are not all the same, as to width, just like the brake shoes they fit over. Have to know which width you need.

What is the matter with the hubs?

CBODY67
 
The drums are not all the same, as to width, just like the brake shoes they fit over. Have to know which width you need.

What is the matter with the hubs?

CBODY67
There isn't anything wrong with the hubs. I thought that if I were to buy drums for the front, the hubs and drums would come as an assembly but, when I look at the different places that sell brake parts for the car, they just have the drum listed and not the hub and I am confused by that.
 
Hubs have replaceable bearings and an oil seal, which is also replaceable. UNLIKE modern wheel bearing hubs, which are "an assembly" by design.

Check the Chrysler factory service manuals at www.mymopar.com for free downloads of the manuals. Front wheel bearing service information in them.

CBODY67
 
There isn't anything wrong with the hubs. I thought that if I were to buy drums for the front, the hubs and drums would come as an assembly but, when I look at the different places that sell brake parts for the car, they just have the drum listed and not the hub and I am confused by that.
Yea, they don't do that anymore.

You can remove the old hub and place it in the new drum. Hardest part is getting the studs out. You have to cut the swaged part of the stud. These are expensive Brake Drum Swedge Cutting Tool I've used a hole saw with the drill taken out and the saw teeth "kerf' ground off the inside diameter. Another, possibly easy option is to cut the studs off and press them out of the hub, then install new. If you do that, left hand studs can be hard to find, so you may need to convert to right hand (do the rear left wheel too) and you want to have the studs in your hand before you start cutting.

The last car I did that with, I opened up the holes in the new drum so it slips over the hub, but that's your choice.
 
I think @imperial is confused about why the front drums are sold as just the front drums and not as a combo drum fused to a hub, because on his (and many of our) cars the drum+hub are a single fused item. Fused because of the stud swaging.

About a month ago I bought a pair of new front drums (drums for 2.75" shoes, which I believe is a pretty common C-body size). And yes, they are just the drums. Over the next few months I'll be putzing with my hubs and probably a hole saw and drill press and separating the drums from them.

The drums I got were made by a Chinese company (Winhere). I'm thinking that in 2024 the Chinese have probably reached a level with metalurgy and machining that is equivalent to US/Canada in 1967.
 
I think @imperial is confused about why the front drums are sold as just the front drums and not as a combo drum fused to a hub, because on his (and many of our) cars the drum+hub are a single fused item. Fused because of the stud swaging.

About a month ago I bought a pair of new front drums (drums for 2.75" shoes, which I believe is a pretty common C-body size). And yes, they are just the drums. Over the next few months I'll be putzing with my hubs and probably a hole saw and drill press and separating the drums from them.

The drums I got were made by a Chinese company (Winhere). I'm thinking that in 2024 the Chinese have probably reached a level with metalurgy and machining that is equivalent to US/Canada in 1967.
That is exactly what I was confused about. I could have worded it better and I do apologize for the confusion. Thank you everyone that has replied.
 
O P / imperial ,
As the smart men on this site have already indicated , you would be intelligent to contact me.....
This is a rough week to take the time to give you the information you are searching for.....

First of all , you need to measure the WIDTH OF THE BRAKE SHOE , to determine whether you have 11 " x 2 3 / 4 " or 11 " x 3 ".... that is critical as all their parts are distinctly different....

Years ago , both from Chrysler and in the aftermarket, you could purchase complete Hub & Drum Assemblies -- or -- simply Brake Drums...
However , no company has manufactured Hub & Drum Assemblies in over 50 years .... I had 11 " x 3 " Hub & Drum Assemblie ( much more common ) Brand New
*** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made *** up to about 10 years ago..... I had 11 " x 2 3/4 " Hub & Drum Assemblies *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made *** up to about 3 years ago....

I still have , fortunately, *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made *** Brake Drums for both the 11 " x 3 " and the 11 " x 2 3/4 " applications.... and *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made ***
Asbestos *** Brake Shoes for both sizes --- the softest , smooooooothest braking system known to mankind--- and they do not rip up Brake Drums to smithereens...

[ At this time , I didn't give Mopar~Man the BIG RED " X " he deserved , because the Chineseum Warpable Brake Drums are far far inferior to *** N.O.S. ***
U.S.A. made *** Real Steel ( very heavy ) Brake Drums , from their inception through presently --- and they utilize no " Q.C. " ( Quality Control ) .... They simply spit them out and factor in the warpable percentage as an " oh well , too bad situation " ..... ] The only good news , I have heard , is that you get a FREE Egg Roll with a purchase of the Chineseum garbage .... Sorry , I do not give you a FREE Egg Roll ......

Second of all , I have everything in stock , as discussed , in Quality *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made *** parts....

The Hubs get pressed out and pressed on to the New Drums ( by a competent Automotive Machine Shop ) ....

An aside --- I am a Diehard , Diehard VIKINGS fan , I Bleed PURPLE , and am might happy to be 12 - 2 right now --- and really , really aspire to be 15 - 2 and the
# 1 seed , such that all NFC roads run through MINNESOTA.... SKOL VIKINGS !!!

P.M. me , as per forum rules , if interested.... Craig .....

And ^^^ Snotty ^^^ If you didn't know , the outfit you mentioned is all Chineseum.....
 
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The Chinese drums are ok. As long as you got a brake lathe handy. All you got to do is turn them when you get them, and about every 5k miles after that. And replace them every 20k miles.
 
^^^ Far Far less than okay. ^^^
You deserve a BIG RED “ X “ also , Just Carbs…..
 
Back in the middle 1980s, I upgraded the brakes on a car, using OEM-size/spec parts to do it with. New brake drums, of course, were needed. So we got a USA name brand of "good stuff". Well before any off-shore stuff was here in those parts.

Upon installation, stopping was not smooth as the drums were out of round. KNOWING that most parts stores stored brake drums vertically, in the box, I knew why they were out of round, so I opted to drive the car some, put them through some hot/cold cycles in normal use to cure them, THEN we cut then. End of problem.

Even back then, it was well-known that if you did a hard panic stop, then immediately parked the car, with the parking brake fully applied, you stood the chance of warping the rear drums as they cooled overnight. Maybe not bad, but still there. As a result, as I normally parked on reasonably-level ground, no manual parking brake use, but then all of my cars were automatics.

So, to me, knowing how the brake drums are typically warehoused after they are made and then shipped, getting ANY brake drum that is completely round, out of the box, is minimal. No matter what. If it needs to be cut, do so only after you have put some miles on it, like a "break-in" period of sorts.

Of course, the amount of time "in the warehouse" can affect things, too. Less time on its edge on a shelf, greater chance of getting one that is still completely round! Which also means anything that came over in a container, would already have "time" when it gets to its first warehouse location!

Just my experiences and observations, no more no less.

Happy Holidays!
CBODY67
 
I think the shippers are knocking mine out of round.
Judging from the damage to the boxes them come in.
 
OK. Will they work? Will they do the job? If yes, what's the problem?
Yes, they work. But the chances of them being round are 50/50.
If you get them from a parts store that has a brake lathe at least they can fix them.
Try O'Reilly Auto Parts. Some of their stores do have a brake lathe.
I threw in the towel and bought a brake lathe.
 
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