68 chrysler newport turn signal problem.

68bannaboat

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changed flasher, turn ignition switch on, turn signals work. start car turn signals won't work.
 
I can't think of any reason why it would make a difference if the engine is running. Key in the on position with the motor not running everything is the same, except the oil pressure and charging current. How about the 4-way flashers? Do they work normally? I have seen where a bad ignition switch doesn't return fully from the start position to the on position, but then none of your accessories work. I'm eager to hear what the resident experts think about this.
 
Do your other accessories work when the turn signals are not working? Such as radio, blower or wipers.
 
Would I be over-simplifying this if I asked...did you look at the bulbs? Bad filaments? Bad contacts? Just askin'
 
ok, I will change the ignition switch
I'm not a fan of just replacing parts... Have you checked anything with a simple test light or multimeter?

I always try with my advice to give something to test rather than just blindly replace.
 
ok I got it. i'm not a top notch mech. but i can handle a wrench and screwdriver a little bit. the car sat all last spring til now. I will clean all the light connections first and see what's next.
 
i just read back through my previous posts and see a few mix-ups i made. if i just turn the ignition switch on the turn signals work. if i turn anything else on, headlites,park lites fan, the turn signals don't work. but the headlines, park lites, fan will work anyway, sorry, I'm not computer savy
 
i just read back through my previous posts and see a few mix-ups i made. if i just turn the ignition switch on the turn signals work. if i turn anything else on, headlites,park lites fan, the turn signals don't work. but the headlines, park lites, fan will work anyway, sorry, I'm not computer savy
Start the car and they will work.
The flasher operates on resistance.
Too much load on the battery reduces resistance on the flasher to the point it wont work.
When the engine is running, the voltage regulator increases/ decreases the charge on the battery based on the load on the battery.
The alternator has ONE job..charge the battery as the car runs on the battery to power everything.
 
It really sounds like a low voltage problem or current flow problem. Start by undoing the battery cables from the battery and make sure posts and clamps are clean and shiny. If corroded or blackened by lead oxide you can neither pull enough current from the battery nor charge the battery properly. This is the leading cause for electrical problems and if it gets bad enough it will blow the fuseable link from the battery to the bulk head connector, melt the connection there or on the ammeter.
Clean posts and clamps with a batter post cleaner to scrape everything shiny and new. Put a light coat of vaseline on everything and reconnect the cables. The vaseline will prevent the oxide from forming again. Undo the ground cable where it bolts to block, sand it to bare metal and reconnect. Repeat this with the ground cable from the back of the engine to the firewall. Start the car and let it run on fast idle for 15 minutes to bring the battery up then shut it off and try your signals again.
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