68 Newport. Tightening up the steering

[Biggredd2069]

Guess this would be a drive line question. I've rebuilt my steering pump and my steering gear box. New pitman arm. And some new bushings. I just can't seem to dial out a ton of play in the steering wheel. I know it'll never be rack and pinion but there's gotta be a way to tighten it up to not be able to have so much slack in how much the steering wheel can go back and forth between and 11 and 1. Just have this and rebuilding my heater core and I'm relatively happy with the car otherwise now.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Check the condition of the rubber coupling near the firewall at the bottom of the column. It can be cracked and contribute to a LOT of play.

 

[Biggredd2069]

What would that part be called if i need to replace it? I'll look up steering components otherwise

 

[CBODY67]

Also look at the input side of the steering gear for in and out play in the input shaft on the box as it is turned from the center position. A wear point that can be adjusted with that big spanner ring on the gearbox. That plus the coupler and other steering column/gearbox interfaces.

 

[Biggredd2069]

Thanks. Will check this weekend and start the search

 

[413]

Did you rebuild thI box, or have it done?
Was it adjusted properly?

 

[Biggredd2069]

I had the steering box and pump rebuilt by a shop nearby

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

The rubber part is called a coupler.

Available at Summit

Lares Corporation 220 Lares Steering Couplers | Summit Racing

 

[Rainy Day]

68 power steering cars don't use a ragjoint

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

They don't? Huh - learn sumfin' new every day!

 

[Toolmanmike]

Guess this would be a drive line question. I've rebuilt my steering pump and my steering gear box. New pitman arm. And some new bushings. I just can't seem to dial out a ton of play in the steering wheel. I know it'll never be rack and pinion but there's gotta be a way to tighten it up to not be able to have so much slack in how much the steering wheel can go back and forth between and 11 and 1. Just have this and rebuilding my heater core and I'm relatively happy with the car otherwise now.

Yep, we need to put "Steering" in the Brake, Suspension, wheels, and tires" forum. You are good here.

 

[Toolmanmike]

Like mentioned, You need to find where the slop is. Have a friend move the steering wheel back and forth while you look at all the components. If the column moves but the input shaft on the gearbox doesn't, it's probably the coupler. If that appears tight and the steering gear moves with the wheel but the pitman arm barely moves, it's inside the gear box. Look under the car with weight on the wheels and see what moves and what doesn't. All of the components on top may be tight but the pitman arm or tie rod ends may be loose.

 

[Fury1969WI]

MRE - Power Steering Coupler Rebuild Kit

 

[Biggredd2069]

So just went out there and had my son wiggle the steering wheel. The couple where the drive shaft meets the gear motor definitely has play. So that's my mission now

 

[Big_John]

So just went out there and had my son wiggle the steering wheel. The couple where the drive shaft meets the gear motor definitely has play. So that's my mission now

Steering Coupler Rebuild "How To"

 

[BrooklynBeer]

Do you have a manual? Have you tried tightening the gear VIA the top of the gear box ? Did the rebuild change the gears or just the seals ?

 

[Biggredd2069]

Do you have a manual? Have you tried tightening the gear VIA the top of the gear box ? Did the rebuild change the gears or just the seals ?

No gears changed. I have tightened that screw on the top. You can feel actual play at the coupler now that i test it. Almost just need a shim in there.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I'm not so sure a shim in there would be a good idea - there needs to be some play in that a coupler by design.

Regardless, the parts that are in there. Now could very well have worn out and the job to replace them there's not that particularly challenging, although getting it off the spline might be a tad finicky with popping out the roll pin and moving the column up to pull the coupler off the spline.

Here is a kit with all the parts from National Moparts - Nigel the proprietor is a member here on the forum.
https://nationalmoparts.com/?s=STR0021&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1

The biggest issue for me was the cheap sheet metal cover that is the top of the box, with the rubber seal underneath it. The tabs never hold right, and the top comes off.

There is a Mopar fix that works very well (I have one on each of my couplers), and also serves to hold the roll pin in place after it's been reinstalled. Here are pictures of the clamp from National Moparts.

1966-73 Steering column coupler cover retaining clamp 3″ – National Mo-Parts

I also put a zirk fitting on my coupler boxes so that if the grease leaked out from a faulty seal, I could just add some more. It happens...

 

[Biggredd2069]

I'm not so sure a shim in there would be a good idea - there needs to be some play in that a coupler by design.

Regardless, the parts that are in there. Now could very well have worn out and the job to replace them there's not that particularly challenging.

I'm sure they are original. Guess the question is how much play. Cause it's annoying

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I revised my post - there shouldn't be too much play, so it's possible the internals are worn.