68 Polara restore back on

Giving my carburetor adjustments a once over to make sure it is ready to go. Set my vacuum kick adjustment for my choke. Now wishing I had an exhaust gas analyzer for setting my carb mixture. I guess I will have to get all my other settings down and rely on on my nose to get the air fuel ratio correct. Think I can smell the difference between 14.0 and 14.2?
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I have some parts coming in the next week or so. A new dipstick tube ribbed vacuum hose, a replacement wiper washer hose, 4 panel seat belt webbing, and an Aurora radio conversion kit.
I started talking to a windshield replacement company to install my glass. He has one guy that he will assign to this. He was kind of hesitant because they didn’t supply the glass and can’t guarantee against breakage. I sent him the installation information from the FSM. He wanted to make sure his guy was comfortable installing it. I am ok with a little caution and knowing that he would be scheduling his best guy.
 
Why didn’t someone tell me I had my spark plug wires on backwards? The distributor runs counter clockwise. Sorted out now. I was checking my point gap and trying to get the distributor set close to where it should be to start and happened to look at the firing order and saw the counter clockwise reference.
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I have some parts coming in the next week or so. A new dipstick tube ribbed vacuum hose, a replacement wiper washer hose, 4 panel seat belt webbing, and an Aurora radio conversion kit.
I started talking to a windshield replacement company to install my glass. He has one guy that he will assign to this. He was kind of hesitant because they didn’t supply the glass and can’t guarantee against breakage. I sent him the installation information from the FSM. He wanted to make sure his guy was comfortable installing it. I am ok with a little caution and knowing that he would be scheduling his best guy.
If it's anything like my '66, it practically falls right in. It took about ten minutes for th guys to install it in my car. Prep time took longer, and your car is already prepped. The only thing my installers were not sure of was wether to use butyl or not, they didn't and I had slight leaks on the bottom on both sides. They have offered to reinstall with the goop for free. :thumbsup:
 
If it's anything like my '66, it practically falls right in. It took about ten minutes for th guys to install it in my car. Prep time took longer, and your car is already prepped. The only thing my installers were not sure of was wether to use butyl or not, they didn't and I had slight leaks on the bottom on both sides. They have offered to reinstall with the goop for free. :thumbsup:
Yes it seems to need that "polyethylene" seal around the rim prior to the rubber seal to help fill the dimples in the metal. Is polyethylene the same as butyl ? To me butyl is the rubberized window seal. When I search polyethylene seal, I get results for a pvc closed cell foam. I am not up on all the lingo.
I did find some rolls of that online 3/8 or 1/2" x 1/16" thick, which seems to be similar material to what is shown in the book.
JVCC SCF-01 Single Coated PVC Foam Tape [low density] They also have medium density
 
Yes it seems to need that "polyethylene" seal around the rim prior to the rubber seal to help fill the dimples in the metal. Is polyethylene the same as butyl ? To me butyl is the rubberized window seal. When I search polyethylene seal, I get results for a pvc closed cell foam. I am not up on all the lingo.
I did find some rolls of that online 3/8 or 1/2" x 1/16" thick, which seems to be similar material to what is shown in the book.
JVCC SCF-01 Single Coated PVC Foam Tape [low density]
Poly is probably the right one. I never remember chemical names, or what material is made out of.

I know they hemmed and hawed about using the stuff in a caulk gun. I told them that every windshield that I've seen installed (two), had the goop used. They went back and forth, and when they said they'd reinstall it for free, I said ok.
 
instructions say to install the Poly seal, they are pretty specific about the direction and butt joint at the bottom and a 1" overlap at the top. Then you are supposed to run a bead of caulk down each side corner down around the lower radius. You are also supposed to caulk / glue the groove of rubber seal to the windshield. This from the service manual. The new seal also came with instructions to use 3 M sealant.
 
instructions say to install the Poly seal, they are pretty specific about the direction and butt joint at the bottom and a 1" overlap at the top. Then you are supposed to run a bead of caulk down each side corner down around the lower radius. You are also supposed to caulk / glue the groove of rubber seal to the windshield. This from the service manual. The new seal also came with instructions to use 3 M sealant.
I'll have to check out my FSM.
 
Glass install scheduled for a week from Friday. Shiny parts grill, headlight surround, tail lights, and filler panel should be complete next week finally. Just finishing up the last surround now. Doing a final check on my plug wires and TDC. I was off again. There are two one's on the cap. #1 for 318 clockwise and #1 for BB counter clockwise. I am not sure what I was thinking when I originally put the wires on the distributor cap. You kind of scratch your head for a minute when you take the cap of and it doesn't seem to line up.
I also had to pull my LH manifold off again because I couldn't get the exhaust flange bolt past the spark plug heat shield. Now I understand why that side is a different P/N, but nobody carries. A little work with tin snips and a file it is fixed. The bolt will at least slide past now.
 
Checked the distributor took the cap off at TDC. Why doesn’t it align with the #1 wire? I was on the small block #1 on the distributor cap. Yes there are two #1’s. I blame it on my reckless youth back in my late 30’s early 40’s.
Distributor rotor, #1 plug wire and TDC all in alignment now.
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Windshield and rear window is installed. Now I can finish up the trim.

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Yes now if I can get the rest of my chrome. They are still having trouble with one front headlight surround. Every thing else is done.
They said it has been through 12 different attempts.
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Outside Window trim on. I still have to get the upper rear corner seated. I need to work it into the corner a little better.
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It is to the point that I need to watch how much time I spend in the garage and neglecting everything and everyone else. Plus I have a very busy travel schedule through May with work and my daughters Lacrosse. There are three weeks where I won’t be able to work on it at night, and 3 other weekends for Lacrosse. The closest match 6 hours drive. There are no other ND teams, and since MN went high school we have to go to SD, and IA for games. Des Moines, Rapid City, Omaha, and maybe Sioux Falls.
I will have to work on it when I can.
 
It's only a car and will be there when you are ready. Putting pressure on a deadline will only add frustration to what should be a fun hobby. My 300 sat for months at a time when I restored it. Sometimes I didn't even want to look at it. It will be done when it's done. No sooner, no later.
 
Hit list
De anodize and detail the rest of aluminum belt line trim.
Remove rear seat and sail panels.
Sew on seat belt tags and install.
Install remaining belt line trim.
Install sail panel insulation and reinstall
Install plastic sheeting and plugs on doors
Add chrome tape to door panels
Install door panels.
Re Install rear seat.
Install the interior headliner and windshield / window trim
Arm rests door latches and window rollers.
Install radio, glove box and remaining dash plates
Detail taillight and filler panel chrome and install
Detail headlight surround, install headlights
Install dipstick tube
Get insurance
Initial tune
Initial alignment
Adjust power steering gear
Take to exhaust shop for Y and intermediate pipe
Fill with gas
Final alignment
Headlight alignment
Final tune
Drive
Drive
Drive
Drive
 
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