68 Polara restore back on

The reason I started messing with my drive shaft was due to my radiator being out to get re cored.
I was starting to see some green among a couple of rows. Not enough to drip yet but starting to seep. Found a local shop that still re-cores.
Went from a 2 row std core to a 3 row high efficiency core. I should be good at any temperature.
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If you don't mind my asking, what was the cost on the recore? I am guessing$4-500, I haven't had one done in a long time.
 
There was another thread on here just on recore costs. It seems to be pretty regional. In ND I was quoted $600 for a 22” 2 core. I upgraded to a high efficiency 3 core which ended up being $700. I seems the larger radiators are less maybe more companies make the larger cores. supply and demand.
Many in the East were around $5-$600

Radiator Recore Cost
 
A couple more pictures to keep with this thread.
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Getting it ready for winter.
I put another 2,205.5 miles on this summer.
That is 4,100.7 miles since May, 2019 after the total restoration.
Changed the oil, Lubed the exhaust cross over valve and checked the plugs. Everything seems to be in order. I was thinking I was running a little rich, but the plugs look about right I think. All were very even.
Only issues I had this summer was a broken ballast resistor which took out my points after limping home 50 miles, and a radiator re-core.
Next steps prior to winter, change fuel filter and rotate the tires.
Winter projects, send carburetor for a total rebuild, fix reverse lights and try to tighten up gear selector column (maybe some of my reverse light issue. Otherwise I am ready for spring.
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Really enjoy this thread! Car looks amazing and must drive great. Keep the pics flowing!
 
My desire for perfection struck again. This time the power steering hose wasn’t quite right. I had a good routing that ran under the battery tray and back up to the pump. The problem is I kept seeing original pictures where it went towards the brake booster then looped around on the inner fender. I looked up the part number and started googling. It seems mine was a little different than the original p/n. It had a longer metal end on the gear side and was a little longer overall. So I found an NOS one on eBay and ordered it.

Before routing. It was actually a decent routing. The larger hose likely had a little tighter diameter bend than the 10” diameter recommended.
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New hose and after routing. I think my routing was better.
I followed the Technical Service Bulletin.
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My desire for perfection struck again. This time the power steering hose wasn’t quite right. I had a good routing that ran under the battery tray and back up to the pump. The problem is I kept seeing original pictures where it went towards the brake booster then looped around on the inner fender. I looked up the part number and started googling. It seems mine was a little different than the original p/n. It had a longer metal end on the gear side and was a little longer overall. So I found an NOS one on eBay and ordered it.

Before routing. It was actually a decent routing. The larger hose likely had a little tighter diameter bend than the 10” diameter recommended.
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New hose and after routing. I think my routing was better.
I followed the Technical Service Bulletin.
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You’re a damned inspiration to us all, HWYCRZR. I’m all stoked that I found a decent headliner replacement, this guy’s working on getting his PS line just so. :rolleyes:
 
It is about time for color on the underside and firewall, then make it into a rolling Chassis to mount fenders and doors for final spray. Have gone through most of the wire harness, wiped it down, but have a couple of connections to fix plus a melted bulkhead. I am doing / did all the mechanical work myself. Every thing that turns or moves has new bearings and seals - from the power steering gear to the rear end. I don't plan on recouping my investment, beyond the satisfaction of learning about every part of the car and having an almost 50 year old car that is brand new, and been part of my life since I was 2 years old.
Initially I wanted to to the body work, but didn't have the time, and was unsure of my skills to get the body and paint to the level I wanted it.
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It is about time for color on the underside and firewall, then make it into a rolling Chassis to mount fenders and doors for final spray. Have gone through most of the wire harness, wiped it down, but have a couple of connections to fix plus a melted bulkhead. I am doing / did all the mechanical work myself. Every thing that turns or moves has new bearings and seals - from the power steering gear to the rear end. I don't plan on recouping my investment, beyond the satisfaction of learning about every part of the car and having an almost 50 year old car that is brand new, and been part of my life since I was 2 years old.
Initially I wanted to to the body work, but didn't have the time, and was unsure of my skills to get the body and paint to the level I wanted it.
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Hello there, you did a fantastic job on your 68 Monaco! I have a 67 Monaco 500 and I’m wanting to do a restoration similar to what you have done but it’s looks like a daunting job since I don’t know where to get a new wire harness and bulkhead for an AC car as I also have some burnt wires? Also I see you have what looks like new leaf springs and shackles etc and wondering where you got them? Your power brake booster and master cylinder look new too and wondering if that’s just a great paint job? One more question is I’ve got rust around the rear windshield and it’s my understanding that there is no gasket and just glued in? Is this true and how did you get the windshields out without breaking them? They do not make the rears anymore And that is my fear too! Love your wheels and where did you get them? Thanks for the pics and information.
 
Hi Owen, thanks.
I repaired/rebuilt and re wrapped my wire harnesses. It is very helpful to have 4x8 sheet of peg board to lay out your harness. Key is to mark out all your pigtails and take lot’s of pictures. I then removed the original wrap and went through each wire. If I had a bad or burnt wire, I replaced it. When finished I re-wrapped with factory style wrap. Some is vinyl wrap (non adhesive) and parts with cloth stretch tape.
If your bulkhead has seen some melting, replacements are available.
My springs were taken apart and cleaned and rebuilt with a kit I got from Year One back in the days when they had a C body catalog (kind of). I don’t remember where I got my Shackles. Year One only had them for A bodies. I will have to see if I can find the invoice.
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