68 Sport Fury 4 speed

I just noticed your Beefheart quote - Got Me? - Yes, Yes I do. I'm really into Frost Blue Metallic with the black vinyl roof and white buckets. Again, the purist in me wants to keep it Bright Blue but the kid in me just needs the Frosty.
 
I understand how the tag works and meant if there were a designated slot for each letter or number to be placed in instead of just having to space it all out to fit it would be easier to use. Anyway, I have never seen one with anything but stock tires and suspect it would have an incredible stance and ride height. Please don't shun me to the wilderness for my transgressions...

But there "IS" a designated slot for each letter and number! ((-:

That's why they look like they do...
 
I just noticed your Beefheart quote - Got Me? - Yes, Yes I do. I'm really into Frost Blue Metallic with the black vinyl roof and white buckets. Again, the purist in me wants to keep it Bright Blue but the kid in me just needs the Frosty.
Someone, besides me, knows of Don Van Vliet's work. I feel Obligated to Help you now.

I have a 4-Speed out of a 68-69 Bbody if you are looking for one for the Fury.
 
kmccabe56, just so we are clear I am strictly speaking about the online tools that are out there that help you decode the tag. The tools are hard to use, not the tags themselves. Or at least the tool I was using. Hope that clears that up now. Thanks again for looking up all that info - I had not found the police grade tires part yet.
 
kmccabe56, just so we are clear I am strictly speaking about the online tools that are out there that help you decode the tag. The tools are hard to use, not the tags themselves. Or at least the tool I was using. Hope that clears that up now. Thanks again for looking up all that info - I had not found the police grade tires part yet.

We're on the same page.
 
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Gutted the interior - not a lot worth saving and maybe a few things that can be restored, rebuilt, or just kept around just in case. I think I got lucky in the fact that even though the trans was robbed from this one they left the Z bar and the rod that hooks to the clutch pedal. The other pic is of the donor Fury3 and it really is much better as far as useable parts and condition in about every way. Also got my quarter panels in today so maybe I can start cutting sometime soon. Worst part of this teardown so far has been the top master cylinder bolt inside on the plate above the pedals. That one had me searching for the right combonation of swivels and extensions to make it work - and some primal grunting as well late in the attempt.

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Someone, besides me, knows of Don Van Vliet's work. I feel Obligated to Help you now.

I have a 4-Speed out of a 68-69 Bbody if you are looking for one for the Fury.
There's more Beefheart fans on here than you know, Fury. Wasn't it you posting up some Slade on this forum somewhere too?
 
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Gutted the interior - not a lot worth saving and maybe a few things that can be restored, rebuilt, or just kept around just in case. I think I got lucky in the fact that even though the trans was robbed from this one they left the Z bar and the rod that hooks to the clutch pedal. The other pic is of the donor Fury3 and it really is much better as far as useable parts and condition in about every way. Also got my quarter panels in today so maybe I can start cutting sometime soon. Worst part of this teardown so far has been the top master cylinder bolt inside on the plate above the pedals. That one had me searching for the right combonation of swivels and extensions to make it work - and some primal grunting as well late in the attempt.

I can put you in contact with a guy that has the exact same car as yours,... but it's a convertible. You can share info and resources if you want.
 
Well, they were pretty well priced and weren't MADE IN CHINA so I'm hoping for the best. Could you be a bit more specific with what happened so I can look out for it when I try it?
 
I had a lot of trouble with them. Your experience may be different.
Stan is correct. I bought one for mine and sadly discovered that they are nothing more than stock metal good for patching. They don't lay out well if your using the entire skin. My painter made it work and I'm living with it. Looking back I should've spent the $1,200 at Wildcat for a complete quarter panel. If I were taking on a rare project like your '68 Id be patient and find factory metal to replace the cancer.
 
I had nothing but troubles with those panels... thin metal, don`t fit well, especially with skirts.. Tried to make them work and gave up... Bought sheet metal, Eastwood shrinker/stretcher and made my own panels. Save yourself time and aggravation and return those.
 
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The area circled here had a crease (that panel was not flat) on mine and in order to get rid of it I had to cup the lip which changed the geometry and messed up the whole panel
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Here's the problem. The rear quarter has compound curves. Think of it as the surface of a basketball.
That replacement is a sheet of flat metal creased in one plane on a brake.
It's the same as trying the bend a small pc. of metal flat plate to the surface of the basketball.

In reality, a replacement quarter needs to be stamped. These aren't.

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