69 Fury 727 Auto Repair Hassle!

[70bigblockdodge]

The rear band is a really stiff piece of cast steelwith a almost paper like lining. The only time it grabs a spinning drum a speed and stops it is when you yank it down in low to slow down with engine braking. The rest of it's life it grabs a drum that is already stopped or close to.
Like someone mentioned before if it has reverse at all the band is not broken. The only logical answer is the reverse band is out of adjustment. The pan has to come off to adjust so might as well change to fluid and filter ( you mentioned earlier that is drives fine) tighten the bands lightly till the driveshaft will not turn, then loosen one turn, lock the jam nut down, repeat for the other band. Put a filter in glue the gasket on the pan with 3M trim adhesive, leave it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight, facedown with weight on it. A thin film of RTV silcone between the gasket and case tighten it evenly and fill it up.
Done.

 

[Dodgy Dick]

re My mechanic, Here's a twist, you guys have suggested his lack of knowledge of 727's is a worry, more to the point it may even be a 904??
and I don't know the difference!

 

[Wollfen]

Even after all this time.

Give him some slack. He actually owns an Aussie built RHD 1969 Dodge Phoenix sedan. Working out what that means in american speak can sometimes be challenging for an Aussie.

 

[Wollfen]

re My mechanic, Here's a twist, you guys have suggested his lack of knowledge of 727's is a worry, more to the point it may even be a 904??
and I don't know the difference!

Almost every Australian built 318 car had a 727, check for yours by the image below.

 

[Davea Lux]

Almost every Australian built 318 car had a 727, check for yours by the image below.

View attachment 248974

For Dodgy Dick:
On the www.forbbodiesonly.com
website, there is a good post by member racedodge on the A904/A727 transmissions. This will help bring you up to speed on the differences in the transmissions. (use the search bar and lookup posts by member racedodge)

Dave

 

[Wollfen]

On the www.forbbodiesonly.com
website, there is a good post by member racedodge on the A904/A727 transmissions. This will help bring you up to speed on the differences in the transmissions.

Dave

I dont need to be brought up to speed thanks. I know the differences, but for the sake of being under the car and looking up, the image I have supplied is the quickest way to tell which is which.

 

[Davea Lux]

I dont need to be brought up to speed thanks. I know the differences, but for the sake of being under the car and looking up, the image I have supplied is the quickest way to tell which is which.

Sorry, that was for the OP.

Dave

 

[james bernard]

I have a 318/727 combo . Change the filter and fluid and that’s it! Whoever told you that it needs rebuilt is either a liar or just plain stupid. Immediately put the car in neutral as soon as you start it. Every time. I would be shocked if that doesn’t solve you problem.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Bump on passenger side of pan=727

 

[NewportRbod]

Hello C Body Forum.
I have just had my '69 Fury 111, 318 w/- 727 to my local bush mechanic for an auto trans service. He hasn't seen one of these for yonks but says bands are worn and probably needs rebuild. Please note the car drives forward and changes gear very well but reverse is slow to engage on start up after sitting for a while.
My mechanic wasn't sure how trans came out, ie with engine or separate to engine, dropping torsion bars etc. or ??
I asked him to adjust what he could and stitch it up again until I can research all my options such as pull and repair original trans, fit reco exchange unit or new beefed up Street and Strip aftermarket unit. (or sell Bl*#dy car,) Decisions, Decisions!
Ok, my questions are,
A, Can it be repaired in situ,
B, What is best way to remove trans,
C, Repair original or fit reco or aftermarket unit
I'm sure you all have different ideas but I would love to hear them.
Please also note that my car is no show pony but a rust free 4dr Sedan with original everything including paint and upholstery, uncracked dash and a reputed 58,000 miles but probably more.
Over to you,
Rich
PS Also what does a reverse pattern valve body do?

First your mechanic. The guy is out of his league. If he can't figure out how to drop the transmission; I would NEVER let him enter the interior workings. Think of yourself as your MoPars CHASTITY BELT.

Second start with basics. Drain the old fluid, flush the lines and cooler in the radiator tank, change the filter, refill with proper ATF, maybe add some Lucas transmission to soften seals (don't over fill so compensate), and last start in neutral. That may refill your torque convertor and deal with the sluggishness of reverse.

Take the time to change out the trans. mount. OE or an upgrade is fine. Don't forget your u - joints. These are better changed at home than on your back in a parking lot in the middle of nowhere. I won't tell you why I suggest this.

About the last comment. The mount and joints will be fine in sunny weather, near a parts store, and when you have tools / jack / jack stands, and a ground cloth. If you don't I guarantee yours will fail in the worst place, worst time, and during the worst weather.

In situ...hmmm; medical, police, or forensics?

 

[NewportRbod]

re My mechanic, Here's a twist, you guys have suggested his lack of knowledge of 727's is a worry, more to the point it may even be a 904??
and I don't know the difference!

727 / 904 really are pretty much the same. The 727 can be built stouter, but behind a 318 the 904 will be good.

 

[73Coupe]

Even with my rebuilt 727, it is slow to engage in R, that's just the way these trannys are designed, as previously stated. I've gotten in the habit of warming up in N for a few moments, and then there is no delay in engagement. There is a company (Transgo) that makes shift kits that supposedly stop converter drain back.

Age is another factor to be considered. The internal seals get hard and brittle over time, and there's nothing that can be done to stop that, other than keeping the fluid fresh. Even if the tranny doesn't wear down its friction material, it will eventually have to be taken apart just to change the seals. Not necessarily right now, though.
Usually this is evident with external leakage from the rear yoke seal and the shifter shaft seal.

 

[CBODY67]

If the rear yoke seal (apparently) is allowing a fluid leak, then the bushing in front of it has worn and is letting the yoke "move" around too much, which has degraded the seal over time. Just replacing the seal is a short fix. While the seal's out, the bushing can be changed too, for the best fix.

CBODY67