70 Polara Custom Rescue

Where did you get yours?
Rockauto
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I didn't pay attention but the part number was CR20B on some of the packaging.
That's a Spectra part number.

Very few of these vendors actually make their own stuff. It's even gotten to where a lot of the vendors drop ship from the manufacturer and not out of their own stock.
 
As many know, I recently acquired an FK5 70 Polara Custom 2dr hardtop. 383-2 but what made it unique to me besides being a good color, was the fact it's an original Superlite car.

Photos from the FB ad :

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I had the car shipped from Spokane to Rockford and started formulating a plan for resurrection of this neat old car with parts I have already, or know about.

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Once it arrived I had several leaky tires and I wanted a solid set of 4 for when I have it running in the not so distant future.

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I held onto the H724 Hankooks from the Servpros old road wheels for a rainy day. I came across a set of 15x6 Magnum 500s I've wanted to try for a while locally on FB from a friend. I couldn't find any markings on the wheels I imagine they are aftermarket repops.

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These will work for the time being, and I like the look! Especially with the white walls out, a first for me, maybe I am growing up some? Probably not. Special thanks to @sixpkrt for providing me with a missing center cap to complete these wheels.

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Wow! What a nice looking car.
 
Excellent progress so far in re-awakening this one.

Is that sealant or tape on the threaded fitting? If so, you shouldn't need that, it's an SAE 45° flare fitting, and should seal fine w/o sealer.
Same flared fitting style as the brake tubing.

Yes I believe it's a stock replacement. Carter M3672. I've been searching for one with the proper size outlet threads, I tried this one and it's perfect.

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Excellent progress so far in re-awakening this one.

Is that sealant or tape on the threaded fitting? If so, you shouldn't need that, it's an SAE 45° flare fitting, and should seal fine w/o sealer.
Same flared fitting style as the brake tubing.
Shouldn't need it. Doesn't hurt to have it though. And it's rated for fuel.
 
Once I swapped the wheels out and had a nice roller, i rolled the car inside and checked for signs of life. The only thing I've so far made function inside the car is the ignition.



I turned the engine over by hand a few times to make sure I didn't feel any rough or sticky spots. I popped a battery in, then jumped the relay and cranked it over a few times to start moving oil throughout the engine.



Confident the engine was free, I cleaned up the points and poured some fuel down the carb and the car fired quickly and died. With the bit of good news, I unhooked the line to the fuel pump from the tank, and hooked up to a gas can. I filled the float bowls and the car ran for about 30 seconds, making the normal clatter from sitting, and died. I refilled the bowl and same result. I kept it running with carb cleaner for about a minute. Lifters were still ticking but pumped up and quieted down. The engine runs very well as is. I suspect a new fuel pump and fuel system SHOULD do the trick as well as the normal tune up/fluid changes.



That's where we are currently. I've removed the trailer hitch and that gave me access to remove the old fuel tank that was about 1/2 full of 10+ year old fuel. I ordered a new tank/straps/sender from Vans and got it installed in the car last night. New sender was installed with the original lock-ring after some wire brushing.

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The new fuel pump should be arriving this afternoon and I will have the rest of the fuel system wrapped up.
Awesome find!! Thanks for sharing!
 
Glad it was saved.
I can see that the trunk is in decent shape and doesn't appear to have any rust holes.
Rear frame rails seem to have some rust but doesn't appear to be any rust through.
What's the rest of the bottom of DM23L0R136653 look like? End up with any real rust?
 
Glad it was saved.
I can see that the trunk is in decent shape and doesn't appear to have any rust holes.
Rear frame rails seem to have some rust but doesn't appear to be any rust through.
What's the rest of the bottom of DM23L0R136653 look like? End up with any real rust?
It's got good bones. Normal fuselage rust in the Dutchman. Trunk is thin. Passenger front floor is suspect. Stub got smashed and ripped on the passenger side. Definitely patch-able, but may source replacement in the future.
 
Once I swapped the wheels out and had a nice roller, i rolled the car inside and checked for signs of life. The only thing I've so far made function inside the car is the ignition.



I turned the engine over by hand a few times to make sure I didn't feel any rough or sticky spots. I popped a battery in, then jumped the relay and cranked it over a few times to start moving oil throughout the engine.



Confident the engine was free, I cleaned up the points and poured some fuel down the carb and the car fired quickly and died. With the bit of good news, I unhooked the line to the fuel pump from the tank, and hooked up to a gas can. I filled the float bowls and the car ran for about 30 seconds, making the normal clatter from sitting, and died. I refilled the bowl and same result. I kept it running with carb cleaner for about a minute. Lifters were still ticking but pumped up and quieted down. The engine runs very well as is. I suspect a new fuel pump and fuel system SHOULD do the trick as well as the normal tune up/fluid changes.



That's where we are currently. I've removed the trailer hitch and that gave me access to remove the old fuel tank that was about 1/2 full of 10+ year old fuel. I ordered a new tank/straps/sender from Vans and got it installed in the car last night. New sender was installed with the original lock-ring after some wire brushing.

View attachment 668359View attachment 668360View attachment 668361View attachment 668362View attachment 668363

The new fuel pump should be arriving this afternoon and I will have the rest of the fuel system wrapped up.
Nice work
 
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