72 Fury III Sedan blower motor wiring help please

[MBar]

When I turn on my AC, fan is on low and I need medium and high. Previous owner disturbed some of the wiring but I don't know if a/c and heat controls were affected.
Fellas... finally got to playing with the car. I found the Blower motor resistor connection (under the dash or easier if the ashtray is out of the way).
I did get the chassis manual and studied section 8 Wiring diagrams. I am confused.
My goal to to get the fan working on high and medium because low is well, too low. Right now, If I press-in the A/C to turn it on, I get low fan and no way to adjust it. I want to put in some aftermarket switch as my dash switch is bad.
Anyhow, I want to figure out how to connect it. what leads should contact for each of the speeds? I know brown is low, light green is medium and dark green is high.
I used my test light to check for what is "hot" with key on and a/c on and off. Please see below for my results. Hot means test-light to ground and "Hot between" means test-light between two points.

The PO did a number on my under-dash wiring and I'm hoping the mess I see is only from the radio swap but I also had what looks like an extra hole cutout on my temp panel and a small switch installed. I now have that hanging under the dash so I can have my dash together while I figure this out. It's connected to two light blue wires and I can't tell where they go but the switch does not seem to affect anything. sliding my temp control does nothing (cable bad)

I don't want to just start jumpering things together as I see in the wiring diagrams there are resistors involved and I don't want to blow anything (other than sweet cool air lol).

Sooooo, what do I do to get select-able air flow? I don't want to try to pulll or replace stock dash components as it looks like a pain just to get the controls out. My heater control cable is shot but I am likely to just rig some alternate way for that. Love my car but I am ok with a bit of McGiver-ing. As always, appreciate any and all help

 

[CBODY67]

On the 1972 cars, things got a little different from prior model years, as to the hvac system. When the system is fully "OFF", the blower motor runs on a slower speed. The a/c compressor runs all of the time, too, even with the "OFF button pushed. The purpose of this situation is to keep the air coming through the hvac system dehumidified all of the time, so that on a cooler day, that first blast of air to the windshield will not fog it up for a few seconds before the heat happens (to clear it off).

The heater cable on our '72 Newport Royal is a two-piece item AND has a hidden compressor switch that it works. On our car, I could move the heat lever from cold to hot. About half way to HOT, I could feel and hear a faint "click", which turned that compressor switch to off. If you can stand having the heat lever at 1/2 toward HOT when no heat is needed, you can reposition the cable on the water valve to achieve such. Just move the lever to just past the click, then reposition the water valve closed with the cable at that place. Problem solved, as to the compressor running all of the time. It could well have been THAT which the PO was trying to "fix"?

To me, I would start at "ground zero" and restore all of the wiring and cables to factory OEM condition. No trying to wire around what the PO did, just put it all back like it came, according to the wiring schematic. Learn how to read it, too. Replace the heat lever cables, too. Then, when done, re-position the cable as I mentioned above. And you're done.

It was common for law enforcement mechanics to add a toggle switch into the compressor circuit to turn it off when they were "in pursuit" situations.

Hope this might help explain what went on and why,
CBODY67

 

[MBar]

On the 1972 cars, things got a little different from prior model years, as to the hvac system. When the system is fully "OFF", the blower motor runs on a slower speed. The a/c compressor runs all of the time, too, even with the "OFF button pushed. The purpose of this situation is to keep the air coming through the hvac system dehumidified all of the time, so that on a cooler day, that first blast of air to the windshield will not fog it up for a few seconds before the heat happens (to clear it off).

The heater cable on our '72 Newport Royal is a two-piece item AND has a hidden compressor switch that it works. On our car, I could move the heat lever from cold to hot. About half way to HOT, I could feel and hear a faint "click", which turned that compressor switch to off. If you can stand having the heat lever at 1/2 toward HOT when no heat is needed, you can reposition the cable on the water valve to achieve such. Just move the lever to just past the click, then reposition the water valve closed with the cable at that place. Problem solved, as to the compressor running all of the time. It could well have been THAT which the PO was trying to "fix"?

To me, I would start at "ground zero" and restore all of the wiring and cables to factory OEM condition. No trying to wire around what the PO did, just put it all back like it came, according to the wiring schematic. Learn how to read it, too. Replace the heat lever cables, too. Then, when done, re-position the cable as I mentioned above. And you're done.

It was common for law enforcement mechanics to add a toggle switch into the compressor circuit to turn it off when they were "in pursuit" situations.

Hope this might help explain what went on and why,
CBODY67

That is some great information. Yeow!! Part of my "problem" is that I have my hands full with projects. Somehow this car keeps getting my attention and I'm not getting to the other meat and potatoes. Someday I'd like to get her all straightened up proper but right now I've just invested in getting the AC working and jerry-rigging a temporary solution would get me pretty happy.

I thought it would be as simple as running a hot to any of the contacts and getting the corresponding speed. Haven't tried that because it's lighting my test light as I described... is there no quick (and probably temporary) way to wire this up to a switch? Thank you for your help