72 Fury III - She Lives!! Drives and Stops .. Carb and vacuum Questions

[MBar]

After a month of love (and patience!), I finally was able to start the car. Hasn't run since '98 and I took a chance.... (water pump, timing chain, fuel tank, brakes...) and it was so sweet to hear the engine run. Seems like it's going to be pretty decent.
Soooo. having sat for 20 years it started right away and I hadn't even touched the ignition system. I wanted to prove the engine viable before investing any more. I am impressed with how well it runs (all things considered) but it doesn't idle well. I took a cautious ride up and down the street just to make sure the tranny works.
When I give it throttle, it hesitates and almost shuts off...I figure that to be the accelerator pump. I sprayed the carb with cleaner and then PB blaster. Tired to adjust the mixture screws..the driver side turned til it sputtered and then backed it off...the passenger side went all the way in before it had an effect so I backed it off a couple turns.. I'm thinking a soak and a rebuild kit. The carb on there now is a reman. The original was in the trunk. I am thinking to rebuild the original (practice?) so I don't mess up what does work so far because I have to keep this car able to move itself.
I examined the vacuum lines and found this object disconnected and don't know what it is and what effect it is having (pic below).
I did download the parts manual and can't find the diagram that covers this..
Finally, I assumed this car used breaker points but I now know it is electronic ignition. As I said, the car fired right up, so I am not sure I want to mess with the ignition right now as I am not sure it has anything to do with the rough idle . I have zero experience with this ignition.

Question 1:
Any tips on adjusting the carb before I resort to rebuild? I am going to just take it apart (pics of everything along the way), soak it and blow it out and re-assemble.
Question 2: I bought the can of parts soak but a friend said it's better to just blow it all out with plenty of carb cleaner. Should I return the can (30.00) and get a couple cans of carb cleaner for less $ and have less toxic chems around the house?
Question 3: What are the adjustment screws for on the left side of the carb and how do I adjust them? (Pretty sure one is the idle speed)
Question 4: what is that vacuum device and does anyone have a diagram of that system so I can verify all the vacuum connections are correct?
Question 5: Does the electronic ignition require any maintenance? what are the typical wear/replacement parts and am I likely to need them at this point?
Question 6: I tried to search for threads related to my issues but nothing relevant comes up. Any tips on doing effective searches? I am sure lots of my questions along the way have been addressed and finding those would make everything more efficient.

All replies appreciated..thank you in advance

 

[FURYGT]

FYI, in '72 the electronic ignition was an option so if there is an ECU mounted on the upper passenger side firewall it is likely a factory electronic ignition car. I would check the cap and rotor to see if there is any corrosion or burnt spots. I am not a carb expert so I am not going to comment on the carb itself but if you did not clean out the entire fuel line when you were replacing your fuel tank that could be a problem if there is "crud" in the fuel lines.

 

[traintech55]

Looks like you have a 360 with a 2 bbl. Look on the core support, or on the bottom of the hood for a vacuum diagram. That should tell you what that solenoid is for. It probably does not have an effect on the idle, but a good way to check is remove the vacuum hose and plug it to see if it changes. It is an emission control device, and the open end should have a little filter on it, (They had a bad habit of only lasting a few years). More that likely you are looking at a carb overhaul after sitting for so many years. The screws of the left side are your idle, and fast idle speed screws. Set the idle speed first after the engine reaches operating temp, then the fast idle speed. I like about 800 r.p.m. on the first step on the cam.

 

[68 4spd Fury]

First, congrats on getting it going! Looking at the pictures, it looks pretty clean and not covered in sludge, you should be in good shape. I assume a 360?
Question 1:
After 20 years a rebuild is in order. A thing I used to do, way back when, gumout used to have a kit, you'd run it direct through the carb. You'd need to stay on the throttle to keep it running but it would clean things out. Like I say, a rebuild should be in the future but this may make make it run better to determine other things.
Question 2: Is the parts soak for Carbs?
Question 3: Yes, idle speed and fast idle on the cam.
Question 4: I don't know if 72 had a diagram in the engine compartment, (or if it survived), the FSM should give you all this.
Question 5: The were usually pretty bullet proof as I recall but not infallible. If it's started up it should be good but make sure plugs/wires/rotor/cap are good.
Question 6: The FSM, (Factory SErivcxe manula), would be your best source. MyMopar.com has some, not sure about 72 PLymouth.

 

[MBar]

FYI, in '72 the electronic ignition was an option so if there is an ECU mounted on the upper passenger side firewall it is likely a factory electronic ignition car. I would check the cap and rotor to see if there is any corrosion or burnt spots. I am not a carb expert so I am not going to comment on the carb itself but if you did not clean out the entire fuel line when you were replacing your fuel tank that could be a problem if there is "crud" in the fuel lines.

Thanks for the quick reply... cap and rotor -- gave them a little cleaning but looked ok...so, don't worry about the other parts? I did drop the fuel tank and emptied the "turpentine" smelly stuff..there was zero rust so I swished some clean gas in and dumped that out...replaced all the hoses and the filter and the fuel pump

 

[MBar]

Looks like you have a 360 with a 2 bbl. Look on the core support, or on the bottom of the hood for a vacuum diagram. That should tell you what that solenoid is for. It probably does not have an effect on the idle, but a good way to check is remove the vacuum hose and plug it to see if it changes. It is an emission control device, and the open end should have a little filter on it, (They had a bad habit of only lasting a few years). More that likely you are looking at a carb overhaul after sitting for so many years. The screws of the left side are your idle, and fast idle speed screws. Set the idle speed first after the engine reaches operating temp, then the fast idle speed. I like about 800 r.p.m. on the first step on the cam.

thank you...will do.. I looked at the original carb and may be missing parts so I am going to rebuild the one that's on there (fingers crossed but fearless lol)

 

[MBar]

First, congrats on getting it going! Looking at the pictures, it looks pretty clean and not covered in sludge, you should be in good shape. I assume a 360?
Question 1:
After 20 years a rebuild is in order. A thing I used to do, way back when, gumout used to have a kit, you'd run it direct through the carb. You'd need to stay on the throttle to keep it running but it would clean things out. Like I say, a rebuild should be in the future but this may make make it run better to determine other things.
Question 2: Is the parts soak for Carbs?
Question 3: Yes, idle speed and fast idle on the cam.
Question 4: I don't know if 72 had a diagram in the engine compartment, (or if it survived), the FSM should give you all this.
Question 5: The were usually pretty bullet proof as I recall but not infallible. If it's started up it should be good but make sure plugs/wires/rotor/cap are good.
Question 6: The FSM, (Factory SErivcxe manula), would be your best source. MyMopar.com has some, not sure about 72 PLymouth.

Thanks! yes a 360.. it had a lot of crud on the front but I've cleaned it up. I will look up the gumout solution...otherwise, it has sat overnight with fuel in the carb first time in years so I am going to star tit up and see if it might have loosened up any crud and gotten better. If not then the kit is in stock and I'm gonna get it.
Yes the can is carb cleaner..so use it or go to the spray instead (or both?)

I must say I didn't expect to have to do this much but it has given me confidence and some "feel good" after every battle and the guys on the forum are a great bunch and very helpful

 

[MBar]

I am searching for "How to" youtube videos...anybody know the Holley model number? 360 2bbbl

 

[MBar]

After 20 years a rebuild is in order. A thing I used to do, way back when, gumout used to have a kit, you'd run it direct through the carb. You'd need to stay on the throttle to keep it running but it would clean things out.

So far, all I found was this...LOL
Vintage GUMOUT CARBURETOR CLEAN-OUT KIT - NEW - FREE SHIPPING | eBay

 

[CBODY67]

Holley 2210. There might be a new product MasterTech video in somebody's archives for the "New for 1972" vehicles. The Holley 2210 was first used in 1970 on 383 2bbls. For what MyMopar.com doesn't have, ImperialClub.com might have, in the way of MasterTech videos. Be sure to use a thick, OEM-style carb base gasket, rather than the thin one that usually comes in the carb kits. They just work better, period.

Glad everything's going well, so far!

CBODY67

 

[67Monaco]

Don't waste your cash. Buy the correct rebuild kit. Ain't hard to do. Only real pain in the *** is getting rid of the gallon of carb dip.

 

[MBar]

Don't waste your cash. Buy the correct rebuild kit. Ain't hard to do. Only real pain in the *** is getting rid of the gallon of carb dip.

On my way to Oreilly in a bit...got some stuff to do (yawn) and maybe I'll be able to get back to this thing... as for the carb dip, if I can do a good rebuild I will do my 68 Newport next.. It's running OK but hesitates when I step on it and the mixture screws can turn all the way in and not have an effect. And...the good news is the city has a hazmat drop-off site..used it to get rid of the bad fuel...easy...just cruise through and tell em what it is and that's it..

 

[mrfury68]

Get the proper rebuild kit, make sure it comes with a float. Also get a new choke thermostat and choke pull off diaphragm. After all those years the rubber in the pull off will be shot. That carb sure cleaned up nice. Aerosol carb cleaner is the way to go. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[65sporty]

Sounds like the guy's have you covered, that is a pretty simple carb to rebuild. Have fun.

 

[CBODY67]

Regardless of what you use to spray it off after coming out of the dip. Water, compressed air, spray carb cleaner, or combinations thereof, you might consider using some eye protection when doing this. I usually use spray carb cleaner. I've dodged a few "ricochets", but the one I didn't make it soon enough to miss, burned for a good while. But I lived through that with no issues.

The repair shop guys would pull the basket out of the dip can, then wash it liberally in water to "kill the carb cleaner", then blow it dry with compressed air.

I suspect that any choke thermostat you might find will be universal and still need to be adjusted for your application. My experiences have been that as the orig coil will tighten with age and use, you can adjust it 1 notch leaner to compensate for that. Choke pull-off can be variable, your judgment call.

As noted, it's not a hard carb to kit. Do pay attention to the imprint on the air horn gasket at the rear of the float bowl. Make sure there's an imprint there and no evidence of it not sealing well. THEN, only tighten the air cleaner wing nut just enough to ensure a good seal between the air filter element and the air cleaner top. ONLY that much, not more! No "two turns more for good measure"!

Have fun!
CBODY67

 

[MBar]

Well Fellas, I was about to pull the carb but decided to tinker a little bit first..wouldn't be cool to do it and not fix the problem... The good news: I adjusted the idle screws and it idles pretty decent now. Still hesitates when I step on it and shuts off sometimes but it ran well enough to warm up... So I drove it onto the street... immediately noticed the tranny was slippin...so I checked the fluid and it looked good. So I let it idle for a bit then put it in Drive and didn't move just let it idle like that and also Reverse, then I took a few delicate passes on the street out front and with each pass the shifting got better. So I took it for a more extended drive very gently and it seems to have gotten much better but still slips a bit. Then I checked the fluid again. This time, I couldn't get the dipstick to go all the way in. I wasn't paying much attention the first time but pretty sure it went all the way in...I turned it around but no change...it seems to stop about 1/2 inch too soon... compensating for that difference, it seemed the fluid had gone down a bit.. I added about 4 or 5 ounces of fluid. Drove around some more... still slips a little....
Question1: Does it make any sense to change the fluid and filter at this point?
Question2: Are there any adjustments that can be made?
I set out to save this more-door and I know the value isn't there if I rebuild the tranny (I have to get safer tires and a battery so it is adding up)...
Also, I notice that my issues morf as i progress and so the title of this thread is no longer the most accurate. I am going to start another on just this latest. sorry for the duplication...any advice on correct protocol?

 

[traintech55]

As with anything, trans fluid can break down over time. Good news you should have a drain in the torque converter. I would drain the trans, and converter, and use Ford trans fluid, (better shifting) and see if it helps, at this point what have you got to lose if the fluid change does not work.

 

[jstaples2]

Still hesitates when I step on it

Vaccum leak?

 

[MBar]

As with anything, trans fluid can break down over time. Good news you should have a drain in the torque converter. I would drain the trans, and converter, and use Ford trans fluid, (better shifting) and see if it helps, at this point what have you got to lose if the fluid change does not work.

Thank you..I can try googling but might you have instructions or a link on how-to? And how do I I refill the torque converter? How much fluid to expect from TC and from trans?

 

[BLIMP]

Just a reminder to make sure you have your trans pump pressure linkage reattached at the carburetor and adjusted properly.