742 rear end seems very tight, hard to turn.

[James Romano]

I'm working on the back of the car, will be dropping the rear, replacing shocks, springs and brake line. I have it up on jackstands now. I noticed checking the rear that it's very hard to turn, meaning no play. I turn with the wheel, and it stops immediately.

Transmission/drive shaft is still connected.

No noticable noises, or clunking. Just hard to rotate the tires. I noticed driving it last year there was a a droning sound from the rear, thought maybe it was a wheel bearing. I haven't pulled the shafts yet, I have to drop the whole rear to do that because of space issues

Is this normal for a sure-grip? Or should I check with drive shaft off... It's coming off anyway

Thanks.

JR

 

[Davea Lux]

Be sure the brakes are not dragging. With a sure grip, both wheels turn at the same same so it will be harder to turn than an open style rear end. Pulling the whole housing is a major PIA, move the car outside if you need to pull the axles, this would be a good time to repack the rear wheel bearings and inspect them. You might also try pulling the rear u-joint loose from the yoke to see if the rear end spins freely then. A failed u-joint can cause binding of the drive shaft. Failed wheel bearings will usually make lots of noise, squeaking, chattering etc.

Dave

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Turning transmission with driveshaft in reverse direction (clockwise looking from back of car forward) it will be hard to turn. That means your overunning clutcj/srag and the low/reverse band are working properly and adjusted right.
If it is locking in that direction it may mean the sprag is bad. You will need to disconnect driveshaft to determine what is making it stop/lock.
Assuming it is in neutral

 

[James Romano]

It's in neutral. I'm going to disconnect it all tomorrow and see what's going on. Just seems like something is binding up

 

[James Romano]

Feels like a the rear u-joint is bad. I took off the drive shaft, put the tires on without drums and it spun as it should. No unusual noises or anything. I did notice the u joint is stiff to move in spots. So I'll replace it. I'm in the process of pulling out the whole rear, so I'll do the wheel bearings as well.

New shocks, springs POR15 all around and paint... she'll be looking good soon.

 

[James Romano]

Just bought Espo 1" over stock springs, new shackles and u bolts all around. Was going to go 2" up, but I felt that would be too high. I want a slight rake, not her *** up in the air

KYB gas Shocks and all new brake lines. I had a set of beat up airshocks which I did a three pointer into the trash can with.

Pulling the rear tomorrow and inspecting the wheel bearing on both sides. Most like going to replace them. Clean it up and paint it all.

I'll post pics as I go

 

[James Romano]

I tore her *** out!!! Hahaha...

New 1" above stock Espo Springs and Right Stuff SS brake lines going in. New brake hardware, wheel cylinders. Found the rear U-joint was shot. Ordered a Spicer for it. Going to take out the axles and check the bearings, but they sound and feel good from spinning the hubs.

She'll be striped, washed and painted with POR15, as well as the entire wheel area.

Also going with new front spring mounts from Mancini Racing.

 

[James Romano]

Does anyone sell just the rear portion of the exhaust system? I was thinking of just cutting it out and taking it to a shop to bend two new pieces with extra for the new mufflers I want to put in.

 

[furyusvip]

TTI sells all of it's exhaust systems in sections.

 

[MEV]

TTI sells all of it's exhaust systems in sections.

Here are pics of their 3" with crossover from the headers back and looking over the axle housing.

 

[road chicken]

Make sure you get a good set of bearings. Chrysler had great quality parts in the day. If they are good I'd just repack them with a good grease like lucas red and tacky and run them.