77 Newport (first car). Radiator leak

NewportLover77

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So I've been looking for a radiator and I'm not sure what would really work? Comparing radiators, I was told by a family member that the ones I were looking at were wayyyyy to expensive?
 
Trust me, leaking radiator needs replaced! Get what you want, original or aftermarket aluminum! It's money well spent! I watch my poor dad when I was a kid fix a leaky radiator and two days later fix another leak. And then another and another. I told myself then, pay the price for a new radiator and count your blessings!
 
Yes, copper/brass radiators are about tripled or quadrupled what I used to buy 26" Modine 332s for in the later 1970s. Just a few dollars more than a radiator shop "clean out and re-solder", which was about $200.00 back then. For a few dollars more, I got a complete new OEM-spec radiator in all respects, other than no stamping of Chrysler logos and part numbers.

Measure the existing radiator and see how wide the core is. Either 22" or 26" (factory air conditioned cars, as mine were). Usually, the part number of the radiator will have the "industry part number" embedded into it somewhere.

Many of the aftermarket aluminum radiators for Chrysler products will have the correct, or reasonably correct mounting flanges on them. Rather than being totally "universal fit" as they all used to be. Look at the car and take note of how the radiator mounts to the back of the core support so you can judge how close the replacement alloy radiator is to what is on the car. If an automatic car, it'll also need an automatic transmission cooler in the bottom tank. Check the dimension between the lines, too!

DO look through the several threads related to radiator replacements in this forum. IF you get the option, choose the "high-efficiency" core option.

Like other auto parts, they are not as generic as some might suspect. Brand and quality DO matter just as much as "correct fit" (front, back, and sideways).

Personally, I'm not a big fan of the heli-arc welded together alloy radiators. Why? Because they are not rebuildable, becoming "several beer cans" with toxic accumulations in them, after several years. IF there is a larger radiator shop near you, used by the over-the-road trucking operatives, check with them for rebuilds and new radiators. They should be using the better-grade solders to produce a job that lasts at least as long as an OEM new radiator.

Just some thoughts, observations, and experiences.
CBODY67
 
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Personally, I'm not a big fan of the heli-arc welded together alloy radiators. Why? Because they are not rebuildable, becoming "several beer cans" with toxic accumulations in them, after several years. IF there is a larger radiator shop near you, used by the over-the-road trucking operatives, check with them for rebuilds and new radiators. They should be using the better-grade solders to produce a job that lasts at least as long as an OEM new radiator.

Just some thoughts, observations, and experiences.
CBODY67
Sooo RIGHT! I've used a couple aluminum radiators, one of **** quality, the other a good quality for the $ buy, but they're certainly not readily repairable, and the basic electronegativity issue assures electrolysis over time with any water based coolant. As soon as one purchases totally water-free coolant, one has left low budget engine cooling behind!

Copper costs, but copper cools! It is VERY repairable. Your words about using a trucking or other industrial radiator facility should be framed in gilt sheathed wood! THe ONLY reputable (reliable) radiator shop down here is a truck radiator shop. Made the acquaintance of one of their people while working the Big Nose Count of 2024, and this fellow had a working brain in his noggin! I'll use these folks if/when I need them.
 
As all of the OEMs have shifted toward aluminum/plastic composite radiators (which are lighter, take less total coolant, and COOL better than the copper/brass radiators they replaced), the main places to get radiator work done are at the radiator shops which service the over-the-road trucking industry. They can also sell/fix automotive radiators, too. Their prices are usually better than a private radiator shop, by observation. They can also service many body shops with new radiators, too.

So they can usually supply a host of services, usually geared to the OTR trucking industry. Or even the medium-duty trucking entities. Plus gas tanks, diesel particulate filter cleaning, and such.

CBODY67
 
It's very simple to keep the aluminum radiators healthy and lasting a very long time. Buy some pure zinc plates and drop one in the top radiator tank. It will desolve, protecting the radiator. It's too big to get sucked into the top hose and even if it does, the thermostat will stop it from getting into the pump and it will still do its job. The only other two metals are Beryllium (poisonous) and manganese (flammable).

https://www.amazon.com/99-995-Elect...cphy=9030186&hvtargid=pla-1181794647579&psc=1

galvanic-series-noble-metals.jpg
 
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