A Poor Man's Master Cylinder Upgrade

[ALRUI]

Thanks Alrui, I'll swap it out. I have a spare bendix but it does not have a groove for the rod, does that mater?

Not sure, maybe someone else can chime in on that. Can you exchange the CarQuest one?

 

[Gerald Morris]

Help please. I replaced my single pot master with a dual reservoir one from a 67. Couldn't get the brakes to bleed with a vacuum so I had my daughter help me pump. That seem to work good bleed with no bubbles. Went to try and back the car out of the drive way and had very little braking with the pedal mashed all the way to the floor. Pedal was not that firm but rather soft. Went to go check for leaks since ì replaced all the brake lines and saw that the master was leaking from the back where it mounts to the firewall.

NO doubt of it; you got a DEFECTIVE CHEAPO PRE-TARIFF PIECE DE MERDE! Go to Pirate Jack. HIS Bendix knockoffs work well, and LAST! MC1323 - 1960-1970 MOPAR A, B, E Body BENDIX 2660809 1" Bore Drum Brake Mopar Master Cylinder

I'M STILL USING the same master cylinder I purchased when I started this thread. I now drive a '68 ragtop Newport, which was equipped with power brakes, and had a leaky OLD booster, and a Dorman looking sort of master with the same sort of lid you got. Get the Pirate Jack master. They have decent stuff.

 

[65-Newport]

NO doubt of it; you got a DEFECTIVE CHEAPO PRE-TARIFF PIECE DE MERDE! Go to Pirate Jack. HIS Bendix knockoffs work well, and LAST! MC1323 - 1960-1970 MOPAR A, B, E Body BENDIX 2660809 1" Bore Drum Brake Mopar Master Cylinder

I'M STILL USING the same master cylinder I purchased when I started this thread. I now drive a '68 ragtop Newport, which was equipped with power brakes, and had a leaky OLD booster, and a Dorman looking sort of master with the same sort of lid you got. Get the Pirate Jack master. They have decent stuff.

Thanks Gerald. I have the Bendix knockoff I bought from Pirate Jack. The only thing is it does not have a groove in the cylinder for the push rod to lock in. Is that going to be an issue?

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thanks Gerald. I have the Bendix knockoff I bought from Pirate Jack. The only thing is it does not have a groove in the cylinder for the push rod to lock in. Is that going to be an issue?

I don't think so. I recall some little external fitting to retain the push-rod. Are you going with manual brakes, or do you have a booster? Mind you, when I refitted Pirate Jack's master to my '68, I used all the bracket, the manual pedal, et al from our '66. I will look into this a trifle, and make sure of how these go together. If you have to, check out another push rod, but I suspect the original would do you best. If everything else is in place, that push-rod will stay put. Seems I recall doing my job that way, now that I think on it.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thanks Gerald. I have the Bendix knockoff I bought from Pirate Jack. The only thing is it does not have a groove in the cylinder for the push rod to lock in. Is that going to be an issue?

Here you go: I got this from my 1966 FSM. I think the pushrod from your '65 will be identical to this. There's an EXTERNAL stop. If you're going with a manual setup, just put your stuff together thus:

Just make SURE your push-rod is meant for this! If you don't have a manual pushrod, or the original stuff from your '65, get it.

 

[65-Newport]

Here you go: I got this from my 1966 FSM. I think the pushrod from your '65 will be identical to this. There's an EXTERNAL stop. If you're going with a manual setup, just put your stuff together thus:

View attachment 707575
Just make SURE your push-rod is meant for this! If you don't have a manual pushrod, or the original stuff from your '65, get it.

 

[65-Newport]

Thanks Gerald! Your write up here is what inspired me to change my single pot MC to dual. I have manual drum brakes on all four corners. Reusing the original push rod.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thanks Gerald! Your write up here is what inspired me to change my single pot MC to dual. I have manual drum brakes on all four corners. Reusing the original push rod.

You'll be fine. What I LOVE about the slab side C-body Mopar is the RUGGED SIMPLICITY!!!! If you want to modify something, you CAN without screwing up the whole car too, usually, with a few caveats in mind.... The factory documentation is the best ever released in this country for any car too.

 

[65-Newport]

You'll be fine. What I LOVE about the slab side C-body Mopar is the RUGGED SIMPLICITY!!!! If you want to modify something, you CAN without screwing up the whole car too, usually, with a few caveats in mind.... The factory documentation is the best ever released in this country for any car too.

So i swapped out the MC with the Bendix one i got from Priate Jack. Still have a very soft pedal all the way to the floor. I rolled back and forth on my driveway, it stops but not very good and with maximum effort. Next plan of action is to bleed again.

 

[Gerald Morris]

So i swapped out the MC with the Bendix one i got from Priate Jack. Still have a very soft pedal all the way to the floor. I rolled back and forth on my driveway, it stops but not very good and with maximum effort. Next plan of action is to bleed again.

Do that, AND replace your REAR brake line. In fact, you should replace the rear brake hose first, if you haven't already. LOTS of folks neglect this detail, and, while it may APPARENTLY NOT LEAK, they swell internally over time, choking off any meaningful amount of fluid getting to your rear cylinders. Also, ADJUST YOUR BRAKES SHOES out well. IFF. after this, the brakes remain soft, bleed them thoroughly. You DID BENCHBLEED the master before installation, right?

 

[65-Newport]

Do that, AND replace your REAR brake line. In fact, you should replace the rear brake hose first, if you haven't already. LOTS of folks neglect this detail, and, while it may APPARENTLY NOT LEAK, they swell internally over time, choking off any meaningful amount of fluid getting to your rear cylinders. Also, ADJUST YOUR BRAKES SHOES out well. IFF. after this, the brakes remain soft, bleed them thoroughly. You DID BENCHBLEED the master before installation, right?

Yes, I bench bled the master. I changed all the brake hoses, all the steal lines as well. Changed all the wheel cylinders, all the hardware, all the brake shoes and had the drums turned. I adjusted the brakes out further and re-bleed. The pedal doesn't sink all the way to the floor now but it still is not that firm. I guess I am going to try and bleed again.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Yes, I bench bled the master. I changed all the brake hoses, all the steal lines as well. Changed all the wheel cylinders, all the hardware, all the brake shoes and had the drums turned. I adjusted the brakes out further and re-bleed. The pedal doesn't sink all the way to the floor now but it still is not that firm. I guess I am going to try and bleed again.

Nothing else for it at this point. Nice to have got new steel for your lines! If you don't get it firmed up, check the cylinders I reckon. Good luck.

 

[65-Newport]

Nothing else for it at this point. Nice to have got new steel for your lines! If you don't get it firmed up, check the cylinders I reckon. Good luck.

Think I found the problem. The brand new Centric brand china's finest wheel cylinders were both leaking in the rear. Would one might know a better brand i could try?

 

[ALRUI]

Think I found the problem. The brand new Centric brand china's finest wheel cylinders were both leaking in the rear. Would one might know a better brand i could try?

Try finding some NOS ones on eBay perhaps (not necessarily Mopar but Raybestos or some older stuff). You may still need to rebuild them with a name brand rebuild kit depending condition but you'll have good castings).

 

[Gerald Morris]

Think I found the problem. The brand new Centric brand china's finest wheel cylinders were both leaking in the rear. Would one might know a better brand i could try?

YEAH, "MAD N CHINA"* was the problem!! Centric sux! You still have the original cylinders?

Dig this NOS stuff I found on ePay! I buy this stuff, and then get new rubbers from an outfit in Argentina.

Vintage EIS EW71101 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder fits Chrysler Dodge Plymouth | eBay

This one looks like it will work:
Vintage EIS EW75880 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder fits Fargo Plymouth Chrysler | eBay

I always shop NOS USA made cylinders first, and try to score such. I have them. In case you don't find some good OLD stuff, try Rick Ehrenberg:
for MOPAR Brakes Rear Wheel Cylinder UPGRADE A/B/E-Body Dodge Plymouth Chrysler | eBay

He usually has good ****.

Here's more "Rick-O" stuff, for a lower price tag. The 1st is probably anti-lock valved.
for MOPAR A, B, E-Body 64-up Rear Drum Brake Wheel Cylinders Dodge Plymouth | eBay

 

[3175375]

Think I found the problem. The brand new Centric brand china's finest wheel cylinders were both leaking in the rear. Would one might know a better brand i could try?

@mobileparts

 

[65-Newport]

YEAH, "MAD N CHINA"* was the problem!! Centric sux! You still have the original cylinders?

Dig this NOS stuff I found on ePay! I buy this stuff, and then get new rubbers from an outfit in Argentina.

Vintage EIS EW71101 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder fits Chrysler Dodge Plymouth | eBay

This one looks like it will work:
Vintage EIS EW75880 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder fits Fargo Plymouth Chrysler | eBay

I always shop NOS USA made cylinders first, and try to score such. I have them. In case you don't find some good OLD stuff, try Rick Ehrenberg:
for MOPAR Brakes Rear Wheel Cylinder UPGRADE A/B/E-Body Dodge Plymouth Chrysler | eBay

He usually has good ****.

Here's more "Rick-O" stuff, for a lower price tag. The 1st is probably anti-lock valved.
for MOPAR A, B, E-Body 64-up Rear Drum Brake Wheel Cylinders Dodge Plymouth | eBay

Awesome, thanks Gerald for all the info and links!!!

 

[65-Newport]

YEAH, "MAD N CHINA"* was the problem!! Centric sux! You still have the original cylinders?

Dig this NOS stuff I found on ePay! I buy this stuff, and then get new rubbers from an outfit in Argentina.

Vintage EIS EW71101 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder fits Chrysler Dodge Plymouth | eBay

This one looks like it will work:
Vintage EIS EW75880 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder fits Fargo Plymouth Chrysler | eBay

I always shop NOS USA made cylinders first, and try to score such. I have them. In case you don't find some good OLD stuff, try Rick Ehrenberg:
for MOPAR Brakes Rear Wheel Cylinder UPGRADE A/B/E-Body Dodge Plymouth Chrysler | eBay

He usually has good ****.

Here's more "Rick-O" stuff, for a lower price tag. The 1st is probably anti-lock valved.
for MOPAR A, B, E-Body 64-up Rear Drum Brake Wheel Cylinders Dodge Plymouth | eBay

I have the original cylinders. I am going to rebuild. One of the bleeders broke off, I was able to drill it out. I am going to tap it and put a slightly larger bleeder in.