Alternator Cosmetic Restoration
- Thread starter WSP
- Start date
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Maybe some all purpose cleaner or degreaser, a small detail brush and a steam cleaner. That would work pretty well.
Justin Plant
Well-Known Member
Some truck stops sell an aluminum etching cleaner, auto parts stores sell wheel cleaner for non coated aluminum as well.
Rather than a "full blown" steam cleaner, what about a smaller unit for steaming clothes or upholstery instead? Smaller amounts and velocity might be better? Whatever might be used, just be aware that although the front and rear shaft bearings are sealed, the lube in them can still be compromised by cleaners in "too much" amounts.
I might lean more toward brake cleaner on a clean rag or similar, with the tooth brush to loosen things up a bit first. In any event, a possibly tedious job, especially for the bottom, unless you remove it from the engine first.
Then, another issue might be to put some kind of satiny sealer on the exposed aluminum to keep it looking nice?
Enjoy!
CBODY67
I might lean more toward brake cleaner on a clean rag or similar, with the tooth brush to loosen things up a bit first. In any event, a possibly tedious job, especially for the bottom, unless you remove it from the engine first.
Then, another issue might be to put some kind of satiny sealer on the exposed aluminum to keep it looking nice?
Enjoy!
CBODY67
IMHO, since the alternator is an electrical part, steam cleaning or for that matter, any chemical cleaning other than wiping off the outside, is just not a good idea. I see it as a good way to damage the internal parts.
Taking an alternator apart is not that hard and then you can do whatever you want to clean the bare case.
Taking an alternator apart is not that hard and then you can do whatever you want to clean the bare case.
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Many steam cleaners come with very small nozzles that allow you to “finesse” your application of the steam in very manageable ways without getting it into the internals of the part you’re working on. It can be done. It’s almost like using compressed air.
I wouldn't do it... It's still water on an electrical part.
If nothing else, you are pushing all the crap into the alternator.
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
We can agree to disagree. It’s less water than if you used engine cleaner and a pressure washer to clean your engine bay. But that’s a whole other conversation… thanks for your comments!
I wouldn't do that either. A pressure washer can wreak havoc on a lot of stuff in the engine compartment.
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Agreed!
Retired auto tech
New Member
As a professional tune up and electrical mechanic I have pressure washed every engine before starting to work on it since the 1970s. There is nothing in an alternator that water can harm. If there was you would short it everytime you drove in a rain storm. Having a clean engine also starts and runs better, why?
Because a grimy engine becomes a very large capacitor which means that more voltage is required to fire the plugs. But remember I was doing a major tune up so the carb and distributor were removed every time and overhauled in addition to plugs and any other parts that were required as determined by analyzing the fuel, ignition, starting, charging systems and engine condition by using a scope and gas analyzer. Also removing plugs or distributor on a dirty engine risks getting dirt or sand into the engine. If you want to wash your engine seal off the carb and distributor with some heavy plastic and duct tape and afterwards blow out the cap and distributor with compressed air tomake sure everything is dry before starting. A can of compressed air for blowing out dusty computers would be fine as well.
Because a grimy engine becomes a very large capacitor which means that more voltage is required to fire the plugs. But remember I was doing a major tune up so the carb and distributor were removed every time and overhauled in addition to plugs and any other parts that were required as determined by analyzing the fuel, ignition, starting, charging systems and engine condition by using a scope and gas analyzer. Also removing plugs or distributor on a dirty engine risks getting dirt or sand into the engine. If you want to wash your engine seal off the carb and distributor with some heavy plastic and duct tape and afterwards blow out the cap and distributor with compressed air tomake sure everything is dry before starting. A can of compressed air for blowing out dusty computers would be fine as well.
The last time I walked in the rain, it wasn't coming at me at with 2000 PSI (or more) pressure. In the Mopar alternator, the front ball bearing is a sealed bearing, meaning that the lubricant is sealed in and dirt and grime is sealed out. They aren't sealed well enough for, let's say, submersion in water... or shooting 2000 PSI water at it. The rear bearing is an unsealed roller bearing that normally won't fail unless the grease goes away or it somehow gets some crap into the rollers. Like, let's say 2000 PSI water.
So there's two things that I would say could be damaged from high pressure water being forced directly into the alternator. Let's remember what the OP posted about... Cleaning the alternator... Not taking the grease off the engine. I've hosed down engine compartments too.. and I'll agree that a little water shouldn't hurt... but to direct high pressure water into the alternator?? Sorry, that makes zero sense. When you pressure washed engines, did you blow that high pressure water directly into the alternator? I doubt it... I think you are smart enough to not have done that. Just like you don't force water into a distributor or carb or power steering pump etc.
About the capacitor comment... You are going to have to explain how a grimy engine becomes something that can store electricity.. I might understand if you said it increases resistance to ground. But I'm not understanding the "capacitor" reference and yes, I know what a capacitor is. I'll agree that when you pull a distributor out, it should be clean around that area at minimum. That's a different discussion and really nothing to do with the OP "detailing" his alternator.
One other thing to remember is the guys asking these questions have limited experience and might not even think about sealing off the distributor or carb. They've never done it and need some guidance so they don't. Sometimes you just have to say "That's not a good idea" and help them through. Just read how many threads there are about doing simple tasks here. Nothing against anyone that needs help ... Just a matter of knowledge and experience.
As for me, I never worked in the trade. I have rebuilt alternators (and starters, carbs etc.) and I learned that from my uncle who owned a local shop that rebuilt alternators and starters. I'll never claim to know everything, and I'll admit to learning the hard way many times.
Believe me... I'm not trying to start an argument here. I just want to see guys think about what they are doing.
Retired auto tech
New Member
As an auto electric shop we rebuilt thousands of alternators and starters as well as carbs, and distributors. And yes i used full pressure to wash everything before begining to work on it. I never saw an alternator or bearings fail in 50 years of doing this, however you could run into problems with steam as the pressure and latent temperature are much higher than a hot water and soap pressure washer.
The main problem with the rear needle bearing was the grease drying out and with no lubrication they fail. As for detailing the alternator you could clean it with brake clean after removing it from the vehicle and then perhaps paint it with alumiblast to give it that new look. but first mask the pos. terminal and field terminals. It would not be exactly right as the stator would also have paint on it.
As for the capacitor effectthe best way I can explain it is that there are two ways to look at electrical current flow, negative charge flow of electrons in one direction and positive charge flow in the opposite direction. If you watch a high speed camera recording of a lightening strike you will actualy see an ionization of the air reaching up to the clouds before the giant electron flow has a conductive path to the ground. The spark plug firing works in this way also.
If you look at the firing on an oscilliscope the spike that you see of 25000 to 30000 volts is not the spark but the energy required to ionize the gap to make it conductive for current to flow across. Once the flow begins the voltage will drop substantionly to 5000 to 10000 volts and the current will flow untill the coil energy drops to the level where it cannot sustain the current flow any longer. The less energy required to ionize the longer the spark duration will be. As a big capacitor the dirty engine block holds onto more of the positive charge longer requiring a higher initial voltage to break down the gap and thus a much shortened firing time of the spark across the gap. Just as a note spark duration with a point ignition averages about 3/4 of a millisecond spark time, Chrysler electronic ignition is about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 milliseconds and Ford and GM HEI systems run 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 milliseconds.
GM tried capacitance discharge ignition systems back in the mid 1960s but even withthe rich mixtures in those days the 1/8 of a millisecond spark duration was to short to keep the fire lit. Multi spark dishcharge systems give you three 1/8 millisecond sparks to overcome this problem but I have never seen an explanation as why this is better than a good high current 2 1/2 millisecond long spark. I also hate the fact that my sun scope cannot synchonize with the multi sparks so I cannot do dynamic cylinder balance tests or keep my timing light id sync. I wish all these boxes had a switch to change it to single spark for testing.
Sorry for the bit of ranting from an old scope man but I think that the current trend of hand held equipment is very limited compared to what can be done with a good scope and gas analyzer.
Enough for tonight, wishing everyone the best in there automotive endevours.
Retired
The main problem with the rear needle bearing was the grease drying out and with no lubrication they fail. As for detailing the alternator you could clean it with brake clean after removing it from the vehicle and then perhaps paint it with alumiblast to give it that new look. but first mask the pos. terminal and field terminals. It would not be exactly right as the stator would also have paint on it.
As for the capacitor effectthe best way I can explain it is that there are two ways to look at electrical current flow, negative charge flow of electrons in one direction and positive charge flow in the opposite direction. If you watch a high speed camera recording of a lightening strike you will actualy see an ionization of the air reaching up to the clouds before the giant electron flow has a conductive path to the ground. The spark plug firing works in this way also.
If you look at the firing on an oscilliscope the spike that you see of 25000 to 30000 volts is not the spark but the energy required to ionize the gap to make it conductive for current to flow across. Once the flow begins the voltage will drop substantionly to 5000 to 10000 volts and the current will flow untill the coil energy drops to the level where it cannot sustain the current flow any longer. The less energy required to ionize the longer the spark duration will be. As a big capacitor the dirty engine block holds onto more of the positive charge longer requiring a higher initial voltage to break down the gap and thus a much shortened firing time of the spark across the gap. Just as a note spark duration with a point ignition averages about 3/4 of a millisecond spark time, Chrysler electronic ignition is about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 milliseconds and Ford and GM HEI systems run 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 milliseconds.
GM tried capacitance discharge ignition systems back in the mid 1960s but even withthe rich mixtures in those days the 1/8 of a millisecond spark duration was to short to keep the fire lit. Multi spark dishcharge systems give you three 1/8 millisecond sparks to overcome this problem but I have never seen an explanation as why this is better than a good high current 2 1/2 millisecond long spark. I also hate the fact that my sun scope cannot synchonize with the multi sparks so I cannot do dynamic cylinder balance tests or keep my timing light id sync. I wish all these boxes had a switch to change it to single spark for testing.
Sorry for the bit of ranting from an old scope man but I think that the current trend of hand held equipment is very limited compared to what can be done with a good scope and gas analyzer.
Enough for tonight, wishing everyone the best in there automotive endevours.
Retired
Fury Pursuit
Senior Member
Dry ice blasting…does work well.
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