commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I can't figure out if that was sincere or facetious...I have a buddy whos dad is a TV repairman and has an awesome set of tools. He'll port and polish your heads for $150.
I can't figure out if that was sincere or facetious...I have a buddy whos dad is a TV repairman and has an awesome set of tools. He'll port and polish your heads for $150.
My argument excludes the performance argument.The comment I left was in response to all the aluminum head bashing that has been going on in this thread. The cost of porting a set of cast iron heads by a professional compared to just purchasing a set of aluminum heads is not going to be all that much different. I agree that just doing a basic reconditioning on a set of cast iron heads is going to be allot cheaper than buying aluminum heads, but don't expect any power gains. It depends on what the customer wants. If you're just building a cruiser and not looking for big hp gains then save your money and stick with the cast iron. If hp is what your looking for then save your money on all the porting work and just buy a set of brand new aluminum heads. Professional porting work is very time consuming and expensive and anyone that claims they can port your heads for real cheap is probably not the person you want to do the work for you. Most aftermarket aluminum heads come with larger 2.14 valves and the bowls have been redesigned to give more flow than a stock cast iron head. Companies like Edelbrock have not stayed in business all these years by selling their costumers useless gimmicks.
Yeah aluminum heads are for performance guys, the rest of us are happy with the factory grunt with maybe a few tweaks.These are C-bodies, 98% of us are just cruisers...
The 452 heads are a late 70s smog head. I don't see 375 -400 hp with those heads. An earlier 915 or 906 casting will get you closer to your hp goal if you want to save some $$$ by not going aluminum.Thanks for all your input guys. The target for the build is 375 - 400 hp with good low end grunt to get the behemoth up to speed in a hurry. No doubt I could get another 50 hp without too much $ but as stated previously the result would be marginal and not necessary. Don't get me wrong I appreciate the feedback but my only goal here is to get the results this time that should have happened 5 years ago. I will leave well enough alone and if successful I will be a happy camper.
The only downside to the 452's, which I consider the best heads of any BB, is the C.R.The 452 heads are a late 70s smog head. I don't see 375 -400 hp with those heads. An earlier 915 or 906 casting will get you closer to your hp goal if you want to save some $$$ by not going aluminum.
My thinking as well. Thanks.Before this turns into a pissing match, we're talking about a 5% difference in flow @ .450" lift. :laughing7:
You may notice a difference on the dyno, but not on the street.
Dave can you advise on the cost of a "bowl cleanup"? How many hours labour?Look how much the flow increases with a non lipped stock valve (back cut) and a bowl cleanup at .150, .200, .250 lift
Modern one piece valves don't need back cut because they don't have this lip hence a increased flow for free. This is also a reason why alum heads flow better.
A new set of Edelbrock heads will cost you around $1600 bucks and Chinese made 440 Source Stealth heads will cost around $1000.Valve job and bowl clean up with stock valves, $500 IF the seats aren't recessed in the heads. New hard seats in the heads are extra.
.100 lift...............80 cfm intake
.200..................164
.300..................210
.400..................236
.500..................259
New stainless 2.14/1.81 valves, .502 X 3/8 bronze guides, valve job, bowl port, $1,000
.100.................85 cfm
.200................168
.300................218
.400................249
.500................260
Little more port work, $1,450
.100................80 cfm
.200...............161
.300...............219
.400...............262
.500...............280