I am thinking, not convinced yet, about new gearbox. But, there are three bolts....hard to get to, and not sure how the thing will come out. The dipstick, steering shaft from column, and what else is in the way, and will not come out the bottom, or so it seems. Anyone done this?
Anyone ever replace a steering gearbox on something close to 66 fury
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
C Body Bob
Old Man with a Hat
I’ve sold a bunch of them. Several to members on here. I shipped them directly to Firm Feel for them to be rebuilt I may have one left
You'll need a puller for the steering arm. This works well... Search eBay and I'll bet you'll find it cheaper. There are others, but this is the best...
Amazon product ASIN B00061SMS0
A punch to knock out the roll pin. These are kinda nice but not necessary. Any punch the correct size will work.
https://smile.amazon.com/Pieces-Gunsmithing-Removing-Automotive-Jewelry/dp/B07JNS1ZF7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3MY8MME9E53FL&keywords=roll+pin+punch&qid=1670446056&sprefix=roll+pin+punch,aps,105&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExV1NISFdOSzJFQURLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTcwMDUzMUdTUUxYRDFTNkJEWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjU1OTEzMUdUTjRQUloyT05OSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
This assumes you have all the sockets, including the big one for the steering arm. Most likely, you'll need a breaker bar too.
I've done it... But I also have a lift that makes things a ton easier. Muscle the old one old and muscle the new one in... That's the hardest part. Eat your Wheaties for that.
Don't be afraid to take Bob up on buying one from him and he can ship to Firm Feel. That will avoid core charges ($$) and keep the car intact until you have the rebuilt one. Sell the old one on here (it'll sell fast if it's the right price) and there you have it. Just make sure of two things... First is the size of the shaft. They made a couple sizes, one for A-bodies etc. and one for C-bodies (and probably trucks) . The fitting for the power steering hose seems to come in different sizes too. That's easy... Just swap the one off the old box but do that BEFORE you sell it or trade it off. This is exactly what I did... I bought it from Bob and he sent it to Firm Feel and then the shipped it to me.
Amazon product ASIN B00061SMS0
A punch to knock out the roll pin. These are kinda nice but not necessary. Any punch the correct size will work.
https://smile.amazon.com/Pieces-Gunsmithing-Removing-Automotive-Jewelry/dp/B07JNS1ZF7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3MY8MME9E53FL&keywords=roll+pin+punch&qid=1670446056&sprefix=roll+pin+punch,aps,105&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExV1NISFdOSzJFQURLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTcwMDUzMUdTUUxYRDFTNkJEWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjU1OTEzMUdUTjRQUloyT05OSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
This assumes you have all the sockets, including the big one for the steering arm. Most likely, you'll need a breaker bar too.
I've done it... But I also have a lift that makes things a ton easier. Muscle the old one old and muscle the new one in... That's the hardest part. Eat your Wheaties for that.
Don't be afraid to take Bob up on buying one from him and he can ship to Firm Feel. That will avoid core charges ($$) and keep the car intact until you have the rebuilt one. Sell the old one on here (it'll sell fast if it's the right price) and there you have it. Just make sure of two things... First is the size of the shaft. They made a couple sizes, one for A-bodies etc. and one for C-bodies (and probably trucks) . The fitting for the power steering hose seems to come in different sizes too. That's easy... Just swap the one off the old box but do that BEFORE you sell it or trade it off. This is exactly what I did... I bought it from Bob and he sent it to Firm Feel and then the shipped it to me.
I had no idea of different size pitman arm size but I will keep that in mind. But, again, how about getting this behmoth out of its space...out the bottom, if linkage moved, or out the top?? Also, I will keep others in mind for replacement...thanks. Got the fitting, the 4AN 5ORB that I have already had to replace due to wear and tear. But, just trying to figure out how to get this thing out and in again.
Out the bottom. You just unbolt, lift, twist, turn, lower etc. as needed.
I don't think it would come out the top unless the engine was out.
You're overthinking this.
All you need to do is unbolt the steering arm from the box. Leave it hang on the center link and you can just push it all out of the way. Nothing else needs to be disconnected or unbolted.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Our '66 Newport got a nice, reman gearbox from BBB 4 yrs ago that never leaked a drop of fluid, and worked perfectly. It installed very easily. I had inherited a Pittman arm puller from some crackhead that works very well. That was the only special tool I recall needing for the job. IDK if a '66 Fury would be much different, but rather doubt it.
I did the job on Turkeyday. It went pretty easily. Now that Mathilda has been wrecked, I'll pull that BBB box for our '68, then install it when the leak in the current (factory original) box gets bad enough to warrant that attention.
I did the job on Turkeyday. It went pretty easily. Now that Mathilda has been wrecked, I'll pull that BBB box for our '68, then install it when the leak in the current (factory original) box gets bad enough to warrant that attention.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
When you remove those 3 bolts, it will get easy enough. Do THAT LAST! FIRST, disconnect your steering column at the "pot coupling." Use a punch to tap out the roll pin retaining the pot coupling onto the gearbox splined shaft. Remove the Pittman arm with a puller meant for that purpose. Then do the 3 bolts. Its a heavy box, and you will need to wiggle, maybe pry a little, but it WILL drop!
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
My pleasure! In the Best of All Moparian Worlds, I'd just fly over there (via Air Morris) and do that little job for you, with you in attendance so you can see and participate for educational purposes. The whole reason we choose to drive C* body Mopars is they combine good size, strength, comfort, reliability and above ALL else, EASE OF REPAIR!!!
I misspent my first 25 driving years as a FORDIAN, due to childhood and familial IGNORANCE. I owned and drove several Mustangs, FXYZ pickup trucks, Falcon pickup trucks, a HUGE Mercury and several GM vehicles, a Jaguar, even a Toyota Corolla and VW beetle all before my First Mopar in 2003, a 1966 New Yorker! By 2004, the scales had fallen from my eyes, the Light of Pentastar had come to my cave, and LO! I beheld the Truth of Will Weertman and Robert Rarey. That New Yorker had EVERYTHING DONE RIGHT THE FIRST TIME! When my Disgustang died in Feb, 2004, I never looked back. Salvation was Mopar.
Mind you, I've had a number of early to mid 1960s vehicles, including a Chevy El Camino w a 283 and the Hydramatic slop box tranny. Neither Ford or GM came close to Mopar for ease of access to essential parts or systems, AND even in 2004, free documentation could be had. This latter issue clenches Old Mopar for my family. We DEMAND TOTAL TRANSPARENT MACHINE AND SYSTEM DESIGN, WHETHER IN COMPUTERS OR AUTOMOTIVE TOOLS! Mopar delivered.
* I first looked for Mercury full size cars when I shopped in winter 2016 to replace the little Olds Ciera X body which had been "totaled" by some careless middle aged bippy who rear-ended us while stopped at a red light near our home. Their Turnpike Cruisers were HEAVY with body steel, and I had found one owned by a dangerously crazy woman who initially consented to sell one her Pa had driven, but then flipped out on us. So, I looked again, and the 1966 Newport we would buy had appeared on Craigslist. I drove it home for $1250, March 10, 2016.
Similar threads
