Bad cam on distributor?

[MightyMats]

So I went to drive my 67 Chrysler 300 today. I couldn't get it to start. I checked everything with my multimeter and I was getting power to everything. Check.

Sprayed some started fluid down the carb. Couldn't get it to fire, not even pop. Not a fuel problem. Check.

Pulled the points, they looked pretty worn so I replaced them and went to set the gap and I couldn't for the life of me set the gap. I tried and tried to get even the slightest gap but I couldn't. I even resorted to pulling the distributor from the car so I could freely spin the shaft to see if the points even opened with them set all the way closed. Nope, no gap.

See attached photos.

I'm about to start hand filing the adjustment hole on the new points so I can have enough of a gap to create a spark. I read that the recommended gap is .017.

Any of your thoughts on this issue would be appreciated. I drive this car daily so its not like it's been sitting around for weeks or months.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Geessssh, never seen the lobes on the distributor cam so worn out. How many million miles you have on that thing??

Forget the filing and get a distributor with some lobes on it.

 

[MightyMats]

Geessssh, never seen the lobes on the distributor cam so worn out. How many million miles you have on that thing??

Forget the filing and get a distributor with some lobes on it.

Ok great! so I'm not the only one who thinks that these lobes are very worn. Car has 100k on it.

I tried to file the points down but no dice. I'm at my mother in law's house visiting my girl, and I have to go to work tomorrow. So Ive been everywhere trying to get parts and some misc tools but I think I just need to wait until tomorrow to get a new distributor.

I called my supervisor and told her I can't make it to work. The Navy isn't going to be Happy with me but what can you do. I'm over two hours from base and "SOL." Looks like a day of liberty for me tomorrow.

 

[MightyMats]

Here are a few more photos of the lobes

 

[stubs300]

Why can't you file the hole to give you some gap? I have over 120K and mine's fine. That 2nd pic of your cam shows you clearly have room for lift, I don't know why your having issues. Throw the old points back in and see what happens. Either your points are wrong or you've done something wrong. Good Luck

 

[stubs300]

Here are a few more photos of the lobes

View attachment 256132

View attachment 256133

You clearly have lobe, don't listen to others!

 

[65sporty]

Your setting the gap while on the lobe right? I would try setting them on the worst looking lobe and then see what you get.

 

[MightyMats]

Yes I am setting the gap while it is on the lobe.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

The second photo looks a bit better, but still looks worn. It was just my opinion from the first photo, nothing else. But there are certain members here that are ALWAYS right and one of them has posted his expert OPINION here as well. You are free to believe whomever you want of course. Hope you get it going and are able to get to work. Good luck.

 

[John Kirby]

Are you getting power to the coil? Including when cranking? Check ballast resistor and condenser. The condenser should be replaced with the points.

 

[MightyMats]

Are you getting power to the coil? Including when cranking? Check ballast resistor and condenser. The condenser should be replaced with the points.

I couldn't check when cranking because I don't have 4 hands. That's a great point. I'll check tomorrow.

I do have 11.3 volts to the coil when key is in the on position

 

[MightyMats]

Ok, good news. I found a drill and some bits and I was able to open up the adjustment slot on the points. By doing that I was able to get a .017-.019 gap on a feeler gauge. I'll put the distributor back in once half time comes around and see when happens.

 

[mr. fix it]

also, check the distributor bushings.
If the bushings are beat then there is no way it will ever be right...

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

also, check the distributor bushings.
If the bushings are beat then there is no way it will ever be right...

That's a very good point!

 

[cbarge]

Order a pertroniox ignition conversion. 1381A
Many parts stores can get them overnight. (summiot,Jegs,RA)
If the cam or bushings are worn the conversion will still work.
Be done with the points i say ...be done with them! they are evil!! LOL

 

[CBODY67]

Lobes are worn a bit. Even if you can get the gap in spec, the dwell reading will not be where it should be, from experience. It'll run, but not as good as it should.

When you get the "new" distributor, check and see how "tall and sharp" those lobes are, for comparison.

ALSO, be sure to put "point lube" on the rubbing block to decrease wear and keep the gap in-spec longer. Should be a little vial of it in the new points package. If not, maybe a drop of motor oil on the rubbing block for a temporary bit of lube. Maybe a small dab of wheel bearing lube? Just something so the rubbing block is not "dry".

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[MightyMats]

Lobes are worn a bit. Even if you can get the gap in spec, the dwell reading will not be where it should be, from experience. It'll run, but not as good as it should.

When you get the "new" distributor, check and see how "tall and sharp" those lobes are, for comparison.

ALSO, be sure to put "point lube" on the rubbing block to decrease wear and keep the gap in-spec longer. Should be a little vial of it in the new points package. If not, maybe a drop of motor oil on the rubbing block for a temporary bit of lube. Maybe a small dab of wheel bearing lube? Just something so the rubbing block is not "dry".

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Good point with the lube

 

[CBODY67]

The upper bushing will probably be where most of the wear might be. From the pressure of the points' spring tension acting upon it for a long time. Adding an electronic kit to the distributor would take that pre-load off of that bushing, which might let it wobble a bit. I'd say use what you've got for now, but plan on a new electronic kit in a few months.

CBODY67

 

[MightyMats]

Ok! I got the vehicle running. After switching a bunch of spark plugs and wires and adjusting the distributor it runs. But! I had to hotwire it to get it running.

I bypassed the dash by plugging in the 12v wire that goes to the fusable link to the ballast resistor. Then I jumped the posts on starter solenoid.

When I turn the key to the on position the fuseable link starts smoking. And the coil isn't getting 11v now.

I don't know why it's burning up. I re-wired the car a few months ago because the ammeter failed. I butt connected the ammeter wires together and it fixed the problem. I also wired the alternator wire to the positive on the starter solenoid. That way I don't send 14v back through the entire dash.

Any thoughts about why my fuseable link is burning up? I'll try to answer any questions you can come up with.

Thanks,
Tyler

 

[MightyMats]

I'm thinking a positive wire is grounding out somewhere causing the circuit to short, which would explain why my fusible link is burning up.