Bad cam on distributor?

[cbarge]

Unhook the extra wire going to starter solenoid see what happens.
I do not agree with connecting the ammeter gauge connections together.
Something on the switched side is grounding out.
I bet the ignition switch has shorted out.

 

[John Kirby]

If you're getting 11.9V at the coil with the switch on the ballast is good. At least it isn't open. That would cause the engine to die as soon as you let off the key.

The smoking link may be caused by where you're connecting the wire. I would delete that. No need to burn up your vehicles wiring. Temporarily pull the wire going to the starter relay to stop cranking. Have someone turn the key to start while measuring the voltage at the coil. Should be battery. It should drop down to the 11.9 you measured previously when you let go of the switch. If this is true there are no problems up to the coil. And the coil is good too. At least the primary side is conducting through the points causing a voltage drop across the ballast resistor.

I bought a cardone distributor years ago at autozone to replace the one in my 66 Nyer. I converted to electronic about 30 years ago and it was badly worn and had a lot of slop in the bushings. I could really tell the difference afterward. Engine had a lot of snap again when cracking open the throttle. They don't cost a lot, as I recall it was around $75. Not sure if a points version is available though.

It isn't difficult to convert to electronic. You can grab most of the parts from any 70's mopar. The distributor must be from the same type of engine. 383 and 440's have a different deck height so the shaft length is different. Also not compatibile with a small block distributor. The control box has either 4 or 5 connections and are interchangeable. The missing connection can be ignored. I recommend doing it, cap, rotor and plugs are the only maintenance items afterward. And you don't have to do it near as often. You should swap the springs and weights from your old distributor to keep the advance curve the same. Keep each spring and weight together, they are not the same and swapping them will change the advance curve.

 

[MightyMats]

Unhook the extra wire going to starter solenoid see what happens.
I do not agree with connecting the ammeter gauge connections together.
Something on the switched side is grounding out.
I bet the ignition switch has shorted out.

How do I know if the ignition switch has shorted?

 

[stubs300]

But there are certain members here that are ALWAYS right and one of them has posted his expert OPINION here as well. You are free to believe whomever you want of course. Hope you get it going and are able to get to work. Good luck.

Hey Pal, It's no expert opinion from me, I've seen a lot worse cams then what he has so don't even go there jackwad! Where do you come off with this "holier then fuckin thou" attitude of yours?

Ok! I got the vehicle running. After switching a bunch of spark plugs and wires and adjusting the distributor it runs. But! I had to hotwire it to get it running.

I bypassed the dash by plugging in the 12v wire that goes to the fusable link to the ballast resistor. Then I jumped the posts on starter solenoid.

When I turn the key to the on position the fuseable link starts smoking. And the coil isn't getting 11v now.

I don't know why it's burning up. I re-wired the car a few months ago because the ammeter failed. I butt connected the ammeter wires together and it fixed the problem. I also wired the alternator wire to the positive on the starter solenoid. That way I don't send 14v back through the entire dash.

Any thoughts about why my fuseable link is burning up? I'll try to answer any questions you can come up with.

Thanks,
Tyler

View attachment 256228

View attachment 256229

I'm thinking a positive wire is grounding out somewhere causing the circuit to short, which would explain why my fusible link is burning up.

I think you may have answered your own question.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Hey Pal, It's no expert opinion from me, I've seen a lot worse cams then what he has so don't even go there jackwad! Where do you come off with this "holier then fuckin thou" attitude of yours?

Did anyone mention YOU by name?? I didn't see (or say) that. YOU must have a VERY GUILTY conscience.

And TALK about an ATTITUDE. YOU need a serious look into the mirror, little boy. Your piss poor attitude is spilled all over this board as well as over on FBBO. Why don't you call your "big brother" to come over here to defend you too? "Little Jon boy".

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Did anyone mention YOU by name?? I didn't see (or say) that. YOU must have a VERY GUILTY conscience.

And TALK about an ATTITUDE. YOU need a serious look into the mirror, little boy. Your piss poor attitude is spilled all over this board as well as over on FBBO. Why don't you call your "big brother" to come over here to defend you too? "Little Jon boy".

And, I'm done here, I won't reply to anymore of your BS.

 

[stubs300]

You seem to have a inferiority complex, who gave me 2 red X's for what I said, YOU! Then you turn around and say this about me.

It was just my opinion from the first photo, nothing else. But there are certain members here that are ALWAYS right and one of them has posted his expert OPINION here as well. You are free to believe whomever you want of course. Hope you get it going and are able to get to work. Good luck.

I have knowledge and opinions too, but I can see it's all about you! You should have never started to begin with!

 

[cbarge]

Boy this thread went down the rabbit hole...

Tyler, I will help the best I can,PM me if you have any questions but kudos to you trying to figure it out on your own.

 

[stubs300]

I have no problems helping either, but someone says that I'm wrong when I'm not and I called his bluff about it. I've seen worse cams then what he's dealing with. But pictures are deceiving! That's all.

 

[cbarge]

Don't care at this POINT (Pun intended lol)

 

[Big_John]

I think the problem with the points is the wear block. I kind of doubt that the cam could wear that much, although the lobes do look worn. I'd try a new set of points once you get the car home. A better solution, as Cbarge pointed out, is to update to a Pertronix or you could also look at a Mopar style electronic ignition.

The second problem with the fusible link can only be excessive current draw. Most likely it's a short somewhere, but it also could be something else that overloads the link. Any chance you have a high powered amplifier?

The third problem, well... Opinions vary over an internet diagnosis. There's no reason for behavior like this. It solves nothing and doesn't do anyone any good.

 

[stubs300]

I've been runnin Pertronix's for years, I won't argue with that upstairs. Step back and review what've done, then move forward. Something surely isn't right with what you've said so far. Good Luck

 

[MightyMats]

So I think the fusible link was burning up because of excessive current draw because I had the ignition in the on position for awhile. I made a new one real quick and everything worked fine. I kept touching it for about 10 minutes after I started the car and let it run. It was not burning up. So I'll call it a win.

I'm going to run to AutoZone this morning and buy a new timing light. I have no idea what the timing is at and I didn't mark the distributor when I took it out. So going on a 2 hour drive with the timing at like 36 degrees could be pretty bad for the 440.

My uncle set my timing for me awhile back. He eliminated the vacuum advance and locked the max timing out at 28 degrees. I don't know why but he said I don't need the vacuum advance.

I'll probably switch this thing over to an MSD pro billet distributor if they make them for 440 rb mopars. I'll have to install the MSD box but that's easy enough.

I don't have lights in the cab anymore, hmmmm. So that's something I can fiddle with when I get back. I keep a 20lb fire extinguisher in the car just in case. You never really know with these old cars.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[cbarge]

I have a spare functioning ammeter if you want it
Hook up the spare wire from alternator to battery stud at starter relay and lights will work.
PM me if you want the gauge.

 

[MightyMats]

Back on the road.

Got the timing set. Everything is back to working condition. She's ready to go until the next thing on this goes bad.

 

[livininharrow]

glad you got it sorted out with the help from members here. nice ride by the way

 

[commando1]

 

[cbarge]

 

[John Kirby]

I think you need the vacuum advance. It retards the spark momentarily when you stomp on the gas. This allows the blast from the accelerator pump to get to the engine and not have a momentary lean stumble.

One of the problems with ammeter gauges is the firewall connector terminals. drawing 50-60 amps through the connector causes them to oxidize and eventually burn out over the years. It's why relays are used for the headlights too. They are not sealed and moisture gets in them and causes corrosion also.

In the 70's chrysler changed to a wire going from the alternator to the battery under the hood. a couple small wires were spliced in at calibrated points and the ammeter was changed to a voltmeter. Looked the same to the customer but solved the connector issue. (A voltmeter draws very low current.)

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Set your timing to around 14° BTDC initial/idle . That will get you in the ballpark at speed.
Reconnect the vacuum advance, you need it at part throttle cruise, it reduces unburnt gas emissions, unburnt gas washes the oil film off your cylinder walls wearing your engine faster.
The other misinformation in this thread is overwhelming.
You need to read some articles or you tube how ignition systems work and automotive electrical systems.
This guesswork is going to burn your car to the ground.