Battery Upgrade - 1963 Imperial

[UGW]

My car is a completely stock 1963 Imperial, which I've had for about 6 months. I think it's due for a new battery.

In the past, I've always been told to get the battery with the most cold cranking amps possible for the correct size. However, I've never owned any car this old. I know on these old Mopars we have to be careful with upgrading electrical (like alternators), because the whole charging system flows through the ammeter. However, the battery to the starter shouldn't flow through that, because the starter uses a relay/solenoid, right?

My question is: is there a danger to going "bigger is better" with my battery CCAs on an otherwise stock system?

 

[Big_John]

My car is a completely stock 1963 Imperial, which I've had for about 6 months. I think it's due for a new battery.

In the past, I've always been told to get the battery with the most cold cranking amps possible for the correct size. However, I've never owned any car this old. I know on these old Mopars we have to be careful with upgrading electrical (like alternators), because the whole charging system flows through the ammeter. However, the battery to the starter shouldn't flow through that, because the starter uses a relay/solenoid, right?

My question is: is there a danger to going "bigger is better" with my battery CCAs on an otherwise stock system?

No danger, but also, no need.

Are you going out on sub-zero mornings to get to work with the car? That's when high CCA might help.

A group 27 is your stock battery, which is an "upgrade" from the group 24 most older Mopars have. 13 plates versus 11

If you don't care about the looks, I've found that Costco has the best prices.

 

[Toolmanmike]

And if you want to have a Mopar look-a-like battery, you can get a black case with pry off caps and a sticker kit. I bought an Ever Start at Wal Mart and a cap and sticker kit through e bay. Here's some information on a FABO thread I started. Mopar battery dress up kits and cap color chart

 

[Big_John]

And if you want to have a Mopar look-a-like battery, you can get a black case with pry off caps and a sticker kit. I bought an Ever Start at Wal Mart and a cap and sticker kit through e bay. Here's some information on a FABO thread I started. Mopar battery dress up kits and cap color chart

View attachment 699314

Gotta do the red caps with a group 27. Here's mine in my '65 300L.

 

[CBODY67]

Interstate still makes black batteries. In their online catalog. They supply OEM to Toyota, Lexus, Hyundai, and others. Just change the stickers between the brands. Seem to be decent prices and they have some local/regional retail stores. Might check out their website and catalog?

CBODY67

 

[UGW]

No danger, but also, no need.

Are you going out on sub-zero mornings to get to work with the car? That's when high CCA might help.

A group 27 is your stock battery, which is an "upgrade" from the group 24 most older Mopars have. 13 plates versus 11

If you don't care about the looks, I've found that Costco has the best prices.

Thanks, guys!

I do still take the car out on dry days above freezing. I try to avoid subzero temps, but that doesn't mean it would never happen.

The bigger issue for me is that I don't drive the car every day. If it sits less than 24 hours, especially in summer, or is already warm, it fires off as well as any modern, fuel injected car. However, if it sits more than a day, I have to crank it a ton, and pump the gas repeatedly, even with the choke set. (Previous owner said it was "just that way") It always starts eventually, but it takes work. I also have the big, old "early 60s" starter, not one of the later high-torque ones. (See picture I figure it can use all the help it can get.

You guys with the battery stickers have a cool idea, but while this car is stock, it's not a museum peice. I'm not picky about how the battery looks as long as the car starts.

 

[Toolmanmike]

They are "just that way" with the puppy pee gas we have now days. In a day or so the gas will evaporate from the carb float bowl. You can install a small electric priming pump near the tank and entergize it with a fused momentary switch. Here's a thread I put together with some info and part numbers. Electric primer pump for fuel

 

[garyh]

I bought a Group 27 this past year from Batteries plus. Good Battery.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Thanks, guys!

I do still take the car out on dry days above freezing. I try to avoid subzero temps, but that doesn't mean it would never happen.

The bigger issue for me is that I don't drive the car every day. If it sits less than 24 hours, especially in summer, or is already warm, it fires off as well as any modern, fuel injected car. However, if it sits more than a day, I have to crank it a ton, and pump the gas repeatedly, even with the choke set. (Previous owner said it was "just that way") It always starts eventually, but it takes work. I also have the big, old "early 60s" starter, not one of the later high-torque ones. (See picture I figure it can use all the help it can get.

You guys with the battery stickers have a cool idea, but while this car is stock, it's not a museum peice. I'm not picky about how the battery looks as long as the car starts.

View attachment 699430

I agree with new battery.
Over the course of owning 8 c-bodies, I find that having the high torque mitsubishi ministarter makes a huge difference in filling the float bowl and starting the car.
I have installed them on 440s and small block 360/318. I think would install on 413, but have not installed one on that BB.
Use this adapter kit for ease of install. Seller is a member here. @Badvert65 . Maybe he or @413 can comment on specifics to install on 413.
For Mopar: Premium mini starter conversion/relocation terminal Kit | eBay

 

[Big_John]

However, if it sits more than a day, I have to crank it a ton, and pump the gas repeatedly, even with the choke set.

They are "just that way" with the puppy pee gas we have now days. In a day or so the gas will evaporate from the carb float bowl. You can install a small electric priming pump near the tank and entergize it with a fused momentary switch. Here's a thread I put together with some info and part numbers. Electric primer pump for fuel

I put a small, cheap pump near the tank in my '700 300 with a momentary switch. Just hit the switch and let the pump run until the sound changes, which means the carb float bowl is full. Hit the key and it fires right up. Before that, if it sat for more than a couple days, I had to crank it a bunch to get it to start. That made an incredible difference.

 

[SGT FURY]

What are FL 61 cap colors?
I’m guessing,red?

And if you want to have a Mopar look-a-like battery, you can get a black case with pry off caps and a sticker kit. I bought an Ever Start at Wal Mart and a cap and sticker kit through e bay. Here's some information on a FABO thread I started. Mopar battery dress up kits and cap color chart

View attachment 699314

 

[CBODY67]

Cell cap colors were an easy way for production line people to see which battery went where on the assy line, I suspect.

 

[Big_John]

What are FL 61 cap colors?
I’m guessing,red?

Should be red for the group 27 and green for the group 24.

For anyone wondering, the eBay link for the caps and decals, along with some other cool stuff.
Items for sale by weskcar | eBay

FWIW, the reproduction batteries are shells with sealed motorcycle type batteries inside. I have one in my Barracuda and you look in the filler hole and that's exactly what's in there.

 

[SGT FURY]

A friend on mine was telling me he bought a reproduction battery at show and tried to bring it back on airline and it was confiscated by security!!

 

[Toolmanmike]

Should be red for the group 27 and green for the group 24.

For anyone wondering, the eBay link for the caps and decals, along with some other cool stuff.
Items for sale by weskcar | eBay

FWIW, the reproduction batteries are shells with sealed motorcycle type batteries inside. I have one in my Barracuda and you look in the filler hole and that's exactly what's in there.

View attachment 699467

Mine too. I thought I killed it a couple years ago when I left the dome lights on. I trickle charged it for a coupke weeks and brought it back to life. I put the link to the e bay site in my first post.

 

[fullsized]

Thanks, guys!

I do still take the car out on dry days above freezing. I try to avoid subzero temps, but that doesn't mean it would never happen.

The bigger issue for me is that I don't drive the car every day. If it sits less than 24 hours, especially in summer, or is already warm, it fires off as well as any modern, fuel injected car. However, if it sits more than a day, I have to crank it a ton, and pump the gas repeatedly, even with the choke set. (Previous owner said it was "just that way") It always starts eventually, but it takes work. I also have the big, old "early 60s" starter, not one of the later high-torque ones. (See picture I figure it can use all the help it can get.

You guys with the battery stickers have a cool idea, but while this car is stock, it's not a museum peice. I'm not picky about how the battery looks as long as the car starts.

View attachment 699430

No need to pump the pedal, all that does is drain the carburetor. It will not pump gas from the tank as some people have told others. If the car is hard to start have you checked the choke? Fast idle speed/cam? DOES the accelerator pump gas when you step on it? Verify by looking down the carb's throat and hold the choke butterfly open. Take two people. Normal start is push the pedal down 1/2 way and car should start. If it is very cold floor it twice and hold it open. Even my 440 sixpack will start easily (well when cold, hot not so much) my 50 Chrysler start up even on the coldest day in New Hampshire and it is a 6 volt system! Better that the modern car at the condo.

 

[Jakter]

They are "just that way" with the puppy pee gas we have now days. In a day or so the gas will evaporate from the carb float bowl.

1958 Dodge Stromberg 2brl. carb. If it sat for a week I would have to fill the the float bowl through the 1/8th. vent tube that opens into the air cleaner.

1957 Dodge Stromberg 2brl. carb. Can sit easily for a week and never have to fill the float bowl.

Took a long time to find that the problem was the solder plugs on the bottom of the float bowls were leaking.

I suspected that but early on, with the carb on the car, I think the gas would drip so slowly it would evaporate before I got around to checking it. Depending on the length of time it sat if the bowl wasn't completely dry, it would start, run a little rough for a few seconds than smooth out.

I even took the carb off the 1958 put it on a stand with paper under it thinking if it did drip slowly and evaporate it would at least leave a stain on the paper. It never did.

Eventually the drip got to the point that it didn't leave visible wetness but now I was able to put my hand under the bowl and see the wetness with my fingers.

Never once did I blame the gas or a factory style starter for the problem.

 

[Toolmanmike]

No.
1958 Dodge Stromberg 2brl. carb. If it sat for a week I would have to fill the the float bowl through the 1/8th. vent tube that opens into the air cleaner.

1957 Dodge Stromberg 2brl. carb. Can sit easily for a week and never have to fill the float bowl.

Took a long time to find that the problem was the solder plugs on the bottom of the float bowls were leaking.

I suspected that but early on, with the carb on the car, I think the gas would drip so slowly it would evaporate before I got around to checking it. Depending on the length of time it sat if the bowl wasn't completely dry, it would start, run a little rough for a few seconds than smooth out.

I even took the carb off the 1958 put it on a stand with paper under it thinking if it did drip slowly and evaporate it would at least leave a stain on the paper. It never did.

Eventually the drip got to the point that it didn't leave visible wetness but now I was able to put my hand under the bowl and see the wetness with my fingers.

Never once did I blame the gas or a factory style starter for the problem.

Like the Quadrajets. They had metering wells that were drilled all the way through and plugs driven in to block them off. A little 2 part epoxy did the trick. And yes, the new gas evaporates a lot faster than race gas or even non ethanol premium. Pour some e10 in a quart jar and it will be gone in a week or so.