Best way to clean and salvage this Carby??

[Oz Sport Fury]

So, long long furious story short.

Got my 71 2dr VIP back from the dickhead painters who did nothing in 6yrs.

Tried to get her going, it's got a blocked fuel line somehow, airline from tank to pump is blocked, airline to tank is blocked. Pump is ok...maybe.

Took the top off the old Holley carby (no part numbers but it's factory) and found a pile of nasty **** sitting in the fuel bowl. Order a full rebuild kit off Rock Auto for $42.00

Now what's the best method to clean up this messy old carby before the rebuild kit travels to Australia...god knows how long that will be.

Is there a solvent or magic solution to clean this old thing up?

Cheers from Oz.

 

[69monaco]

Ultrasonic cleaning. Google.

 

[Big_John]

I think the best way to clean that particular carb is to replace it. There's just too much corrosion based on the pics.

Ultrasonic cleaning is a very good suggestion. The issue would be cost of buying the ultrasonic machine versus buying another carb... and then IF the carb is salvageable and I'd say that's not likely. Cheap machines are around $100-200.

@Dana may have some input since he's the resident carb rebuild pro.

I hate to hear those stories about years in some "pro's" shop without being touched.

 

[Wildbunch02]

​

Save yourself the headache and send it to Dave at Woodruff Carbs, you will be happy you did. @Dana​

 

[1970FuryConv]

They must sell gallons of carb cleaner in Australia.
Disassemble, but keep the parts in identifiable assemblies.
Then soak everything for 3 days in a 5 gallon plastic bucket and see what you've got. Whether it's rebuildable.
With a bucket you can hang some of the assemblies into the carb cleaner from the top edge of the bucket using a coat hanger. That way some of the stuff is suspended and not sitting on the bottom. It just helps things not to get tangled up.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

See if you can find the OZ version of this stuff, give it a soak, rinse, and inspect for how badly it's corroded and go from there.

A 5 gallon pail version comes with a handled screen basket, no real need to hang things on coat hangers just a simple up/down of the basket is enough agitation. If you don't have the basket just a stir with a rod or stick will work but have fun getting parts out minus the basket.


.

 

[Oz Sport Fury]

Many thanks for the info guys, I found a ultrasonic cleaner at a electronic store a bit similar to your Frys and hunted around for a cleaning Warehouse store and found a guy who understood I was trying to do and sold me a solution that they use to clean out commercial dishwashers and other equipment in kitchen's at restaurants so I made a bath of hot water with this solution in the photo and ran the parts about 5 or 6 times at the maximum time 480 seconds and it's amazing how much cleaner the parts are coming out so just wanted to say thank you for all the help and advice and looks like with might be able to salvage this carby cheers guys

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Many thanks for the info guys, I found a ultrasonic cleaner at a electronic store a bit similar to your Frys and hunted around for a cleaning Warehouse store and found a guy who understood I was trying to do and sold me a solution that they use to clean out commercial dishwashers and other equipment in kitchen's at restaurants so I made a bath of hot water with this solution in the photo and ran the parts about 5 or 6 times at the maximum time 480 seconds and it's amazing how much cleaner the parts are coming out so just wanted to say thank you for all the help and advice and looks like with might be able to salvage this carby cheers guys

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Oh gawd, I wouldn't give much hope for that carb, first you didn't even remove the needle screws so solution would not pernitrate there, looks like you forgot to remove a rubber cap on some other vacuum passage, and it looks like you left the choke pull off on. See the 2 little welch plug holes at the bottom underside of the float bowl? From the look of this Carb IMHO those need to be removed so the passage can have the carb cleaner get to that very small passage and do it's wonders and most likely you will need to run some torch cleaner tips through that passage and inspect with a magnifying glass to make sure it's clean. Those type of plugs look to be the ball type and take a very skilled person to remove and replace. In fact I guarantee you that your Rock Auto or what ever aftermarket kit will not have these welch plugs as only a good factory kit will have these. (or a good carburetor shop) I know I had a whole small parts cabinet drawers full of various extra or unused carb kit parts saved just for incidents where I needed to drill out a plug to clean a clogged passage. These ball plugs take a high skill with a very small steady drill and a ice pick to pop them out, one slip of the drill and you damage the carb body and your up ****'s creek so to say. A good drill press can be your friend with this. If there are any other welch plugged passages those also would be highly recommended to be removed before the soak and inspected after cleaning.
Just seeing more pictures of this carb disassembled I'd highly recommend that you glass bead blast this carb to get rid of the rust and corrosion after the carb is soaked and dried. Forget about the ultrasonic bullshit, waste of time IMAO. Also inspect your throttle shaft for play as this can be a high vacuum leak area. If the shaft or throttle plate body are worn excessively it would be best to get a remanufactured or new carb. There is some down & dirty tricks to fixing worn throttle body wear but us serious mechanics don't like to talk about them lol.

I don't know what the spark plug in the pictures has to do with all this other than are you hinting that you own a Ford?

I think with these new pictures you are on the road to fuel running problems and should take Wildbunch02's advice.
"Save yourself the headache and send it to Dave at Woodruff Carbs, you will be happy you did. @Dana"

.

 

[Oz Sport Fury]

Oh gawd, I wouldn't give much hope for that carb, first you didn't even remove the needle screws so solution would not pernitrate there, looks like you forgot to remove a rubber cap on some other vacuum passage, and it looks like you left the choke pull off on. See the 2 little welch plug holes at the bottom underside of the float bowl? From the look of this Carb IMHO those need to be removed so the passage can have the carb cleaner get to that very small passage and do it's wonders and most likely you will need to run some torch cleaner tips through that passage and inspect with a magnifying glass to make sure it's clean. Those type of plugs look to be the ball type and take a very skilled person to remove and replace. In fact I guarantee you that your Rock Auto or what ever aftermarket kit will not have these welch plugs as only a good factory kit will have these. (or a good carburetor shop) I know I had a whole small parts cabinet drawers full of various extra or unused carb kit parts saved just for incidents where I needed to drill out a plug to clean a clogged passage. These ball plugs take a high skill with a very small steady drill and a ice pick to pop them out, one slip of the drill and you damage the carb body and your up ****'s creek so to say. A good drill press can be your friend with this. If there are any other welch plugged passages those also would be highly recommended to be removed before the soak and inspected after cleaning.
Just seeing more pictures of this carb disassembled I'd highly recommend that you glass bead blast this carb to get rid of the rust and corrosion after the carb is soaked and dried. Forget about the ultrasonic bullshit, waste of time IMAO. Also inspect your throttle shaft for play as this can be a high vacuum leak area. If the shaft or throttle plate body are worn excessively it would be best to get a remanufactured or new carb. There is some down & dirty tricks to fixing worn throttle body wear but us serious mechanics don't like to talk about them lol.

I don't know what the spark plug in the pictures has to do with all this other than are you hinting that you own a Ford?

I think with these new pictures you are on the road to fuel running problems and should take Wildbunch02's advice.
"Save yourself the headache and send it to Dave at Woodruff Carbs, you will be happy you did. @Dana"

.

Go have a beer and lay down man...you're gonna blow a fuse with all that dribble pouring out your mouth mate ....Jesus Christ how much more can you over react....maybe pay attention to the pics I posted...the spark plug came out of the 360 the same one the carby came off...wow...I've never seen someone write so much crap to be honest....you need a sedative champ...

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Go have a beer and lay down man...you're gonna blow a fuse with all that dribble pouring out your mouth mate ....Jesus Christ how much more can you over react....maybe pay attention to the pics I posted...the spark plug came out of the 360 the same one the carby came off...wow...I've never seen someone write so much crap to be honest....you need a sedative champ...

HA! Rang your bell eh... maaAAAATE!

Let me toss this one up to multiple choice!

A) Check profile, HOLY **** BATMAN A ENGINEER! shud'da known better than to try and tell a engineer he's wrong.

B) Never respond to a post that substitutes childish names for proper nomenclature.

C) Get Crystal Ball out and waits for the poor running engine thread leading too a EFI Install

D) All of the above.

I think your 6 year ordeal with the shop is more along the line of customer fault and not shop. 'least you got 6 years of *FREE* storage or did he charge you? (I would of).

Here in some states in the USA us mechanics can seize your vehicle for non-payment of bills & storage fees, no engineering involved, just go to the courthouse and file a abandoned vehicle report after 30 days of no contact.
Kind of puts the people that so to say '**** or get off the pot' in place.


.

 

[Oz Sport Fury]

HA! Rang your bell eh... maaAAAATE!

Let me toss this one up to multiple choice!

A) Check profile, HOLY **** BATMAN A ENGINEER! shud'da known better than to try and tell a engineer he's wrong.

B) Never respond to a post that substitutes childish names for proper nomenclature.

C) Get Crystal Ball out and waits for the poor running engine thread leading too a EFI Install

D) All of the above.

I think your 6 year ordeal with the shop is more along the line of customer fault and not shop. 'least you got 6 years of *FREE* storage or did he charge you? (I would of).

Here in some states in the USA us mechanics can seize your vehicle for non-payment of bills & storage fees, no engineering involved, just go to the courthouse and file a abandoned vehicle report after 30 days of no contact.
Kind of puts the people that so to say '**** or get off the pot' in place.


.

Rang nothing you drunken assclown...thanks for confirming you don't know **** from chocolate cake, hence your perpetual **** eating grin...everyone but YOU knows what you're really eating...now climb back into that bottle of whiskey you keep yourself sedated with on a daily basis and leave this one to the adults chump.

 

[cbarge]

I think the OP has done a good job making do with what is available.
Far better than some bush repairs!.
While waiting for the rebuild kit just kerp soaking the carby.
Typically new jets come in a rebuild kit but wait till it arrives before removing the old ones since they are made of brass and can get chewed up easily trying to get them out..
If new jets are in the kit remove old ones and soak her again for good measure.
As for 6 years waiting..It took me 12 years to finish my car including sitting in primer for 4 years waiting for a painter.
So chin up and carry on!
Cheers!

 

[Oz Sport Fury]

I think the OP has done a good job making do with what is available.
Far better than some bush repairs!.
While waiting for the rebuild kit just kerp soaking the carby.
Typically new jets come in a rebuild kit but wait till it arrives before removing the old ones since they are made of brass and can get chewed up easily trying to get them out..
If new jets are in the kit remove old ones and soak her again for good measure.
As for 6 years waiting..It took me 12 years to finish my car including sitting in primer for 4 years waiting for a painter.
So chin up and carry on!
Cheers!

Thanks CBarge, I'm just trying to learn and give thanks for the help received from the majority of like minded enthusiasts.

 

[Oz Sport Fury]

Well D Day, Rockauto carby rebuild kit showed up, very comprehensive kit with everything you need. Even has an awesome 4 page guide with highly detailed exploded diagrams. Pulled the jets and power valve parts out, man they were crusty still, now all the ports and galleries are clean as a whistle. Going through rebuilding it now, the scrapper tool that's a trim removal tool is ideal for getting bits of gasket off in hard to reach places. This is the kit I bought off RA for $42.00 US.

 

[cbarge]

Hygrade are good kits and had good luck with them..even had bit leftover so ya know ya did a good job mate, lol!

 

[Oz Sport Fury]

HA! Rang your bell eh... maaAAAATE!

Let me toss this one up to multiple choice!

A) Check profile, HOLY **** BATMAN A ENGINEER! shud'da known better than to try and tell a engineer he's wrong.

B) Never respond to a post that substitutes childish names for proper nomenclature.

C) Get Crystal Ball out and waits for the poor running engine thread leading too a EFI Install

D) All of the above.

I think your 6 year ordeal with the shop is more along the line of customer fault and not shop. 'least you got 6 years of *FREE* storage or did he charge you? (I would of).

Here in some states in the USA us mechanics can seize your vehicle for non-payment of bills & storage fees, no engineering involved, just go to the courthouse and file a abandoned vehicle report after 30 days of no contact.
Kind of puts the people that so to say '**** or get off the pot' in place.


.

Hey ya old piss stained assclown, just for you so you can eat a bag of dicks chump!!!

One Holley 2 Barrel rebuilt and running like a gem!!