Break In Oil, Why Change it? Why not change filter only?

[Ripinator]

looks petty blue to me which I do like

It's Earl Scheib blue. . . Any color. . . Any car. . . $39.95!

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

It's Earl Scheib blue. . . Any color. . . Any car. . . $39.95!

Plus the limited time offer of $10 free bondo work!

heh wonder what 10 doll'a would get you at a bodyshop today, maybe get someone to walk out to the parking lot to look at your rust bucket and say 'Forget about it".

 

[Turboomni]

heh wonder what 10 doll'a would get you at a bodyshop today

A sub sandwich next door,no chips or drink.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

A sub sandwich next door,no chips or drink.

He He I use have people that knew me come up in the local bar when I was there after work in my fresh clean work clothes and ask me if I'd look at their car for $25. I said sure and out the door of the bar I'd stop and ask "which one is yours", when they pointed and said "the white one over there (GM)" I'd look them in the eye then down at the open face up of my palm, "OK I did now pay up". Did the same thing with the computer people when they asked if I would look at their computer for $25, sure I said, but it'll cost ya another 25 to turn it on!

 

[1970FuryConv]

How much did your engine cost?

Hi Tallhair

• Over $6000
• Reasons for my question:
• Dumbest question is the one not asked
• Hughes Engines & Joe Gibbs rec change after 500 miles. I was going to do it, but I wondered why?
• Lot's of experts here on FCBO who can tell me things I don't know. Thus I learn.
• I have built 440, 318, and 360 in the past. I did not use break in oil in any of them. They all ran fine, especially the 360, which was a beast. I hadn't built an engine in 10 years, so I'm rusty on some things and not up to date on others.
• I participated in the machine work and learned/relearned a lot. 1970 Fury III Convertible 126115 miles: Intro & Planned 440/727 Swap. Still learning.
• I assembled the motor by 1970 factory shop manual and was careful to follow directions from factory and aftermarket mfrs. Motor sounds great! Certainly want it to stay that way. Will run Lucas, Penn Grade, or Joe Gibbs high ZDDP, non API, low detergent after 500 miles. Hughes recs staying with 10W30 like the break in oil, but a lot of people here are running diesel oil or 20W50. Still intend to follow directions, but like the corvette owners who don't have to change oil for 1st 7500 miles, I wondered why change after 500 miles?

I like Trace's answer the most. If an oil is engineered to generate wear, you don't want it to keep generating wear.
Thanks for the question, Groucho!

Who's buried in Grant's tomb?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I like Trace's answer the most. If an oil is engineered to generate wear, you don't want it to keep generating wear

I have never used break in oil. I guess there may be some merit to it generating wear.
Amsoil claims high zinc to protect cam, lifters and rockers from wear, but with no friction modifiers to promote piston rings wear/sealing. This sounds like marketing jibberish. I was always under the impression that the cross hatch and depth on the bore was specific per the ring material. The only other thing I remember is no synthetic oil on break in.
I am cheap and lucky I guess. I'll take it.

 

[BigblueC]

Lot's of experts here on FCBO who can tell me things I don't know. Thus I learn.

Surely you're thinking of some other group of assholes

 

[tallhair]

Hi Tallhair

• Over $6000
• Reasons for my question:
• Dumbest question is the one not asked
• Hughes Engines & Joe Gibbs rec change after 500 miles. I was going to do it, but I wondered why?
• Lot's of experts here on FCBO who can tell me things I don't know. Thus I learn.
• I have built 440, 318, and 360 in the past. I did not use break in oil in any of them. They all ran fine, especially the 360, which was a beast. I hadn't built an engine in 10 years, so I'm rusty on some things and not up to date on others.
• I participated in the machine work and learned/relearned a lot. 1970 Fury III Convertible 126115 miles: Intro & Planned 440/727 Swap. Still learning.
• I assembled the motor by 1970 factory shop manual and was careful to follow directions from factory and aftermarket mfrs. Motor sounds great! Certainly want it to stay that way. Will run Lucas, Penn Grade, or Joe Gibbs high ZDDP, non API, low detergent after 500 miles. Hughes recs staying with 10W30 like the break in oil, but a lot of people here are running diesel oil or 20W50. Still intend to follow directions, but like the corvette owners who don't have to change oil for 1st 7500 miles, I wondered why change after 500 miles?

I like Trace's answer the most. If an oil is engineered to generate wear, you don't want it to keep generating wear.
Thanks for the question, Groucho!
View attachment 393428
Who's buried in Grant's tomb?

Lol. I loved that show

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

What GM states here is what is acceptable not necessarily what is ideal i feel. No big deal to me ,your car ,forum discussion , your opinion and mine. Good luck with it ,I'm sure it will be fine. It is covered under warranty!

Below you'll see a snip from the 1970 Chrysler FSM, and this same wording goes back another five years based on a quick check of other FSMs. It's clear that this oil was not a break-in brew at all, but just regular motor oil. Possibly it had a few ounces of moly or other slippery stuff added at assembly.

So, fast forward through 55+ years of science, technology, and lubricant magic and the 2020 Vette adds a mere 3500 miles to Chrysler's recommendation. So much for the 500 mile myth, unless you're using true break-in oil that DOES need to come out sooner than later.

 

[Turboomni]

Interesting for sure . If my car I would still change it, maybe not at 500 miles but well before the recommended time. Especially for the first time while breaking in.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

So, fast forward through 55+ years of science, technology, and lubricant magic and the 2020 Vette adds a mere 3500 miles to Chrysler's recommendation. So much for the 500 mile myth, unless you're using true break-in oil that DOES need to come out sooner than later

Oil change intervals are longer now not because of oil or manufacturing but because of tuning. There is no more excessive fuel wash every time you step on the gas or rich choke/cold mixture, or in general rich/lean mixture settings that don't effect drivability. New cars are constantly correcting fuel air mixture which makes the rings live longer and dilute/contaminate the oil less

 

[1970FuryConv]

Below you'll see a snip from the 1970 Chrysler FSM, and this same wording goes back another five years based on a quick check of other FSMs. It's clear that this oil was not a break-in brew at all, but just regular motor oil. Possibly it had a few ounces of moly or other slippery stuff added at assembly.View attachment 393637

I used Pennzoil and Valvoline 10W30 in 3 engine builds. Not a problem with any of them. I doubt using break-in oil makes a huge difference. However, Joe Gibbs is no dummy and he's extremely honest, so it must help some.

 

[The Goose]

Oil change intervals are longer now not because of oil or manufacturing but because of tuning. There is no more excessive fuel wash every time you step on the gas or rich choke/cold mixture, or in general rich/lean mixture settings that don't effect drivability. New cars are constantly correcting fuel air mixture which makes the rings live longer and dilute/contaminate the oil less

So very true. Fuel dilution. Number one reason to dump oil back in the day. Also the reason the Japanese engines attained the last forever myth. They went with real & working FI way before we did here. Without fuel washing the cylinders the Japanese engine did seem to last forever 250k plus vs 100-150k compared to US carb, throttle body etc etc engines. Loss of viscosity thru fuel dilution is nobody’s friend.

Typed while sitting in my 265k+ mile 2014 Chevy work truck. Original engine.

Take that Japan!!!

 

[70bigblockdodge]

So very true. Fuel dilution. Number one reason to dump oil back in the day. Also the reason the Japanese engines attained the last forever myth. They went with real & working FI way before we did here. Without fuel washing the cylinders the Japanese engine did seem to last forever 250k plus vs 100-150k compared to US carb, throttle body etc etc engines. Loss of viscosity thru fuel dilution is nobody’s friend.

View attachment 393819
Typed while sitting in my 265k+ mile 2014 Chevy work truck. Original engine.

Take that Japan!!!

Same thing goes for short trip senario. Years ago short trips with a big iron lump that took forever to warm and boil out fuel dilution made the oil go south quick. Now with O2 heaters the car go into closed loop right away and start metering correctly, allowing even a short trip engine to prolong oil changes.

 

[Turboomni]

I agree with all the new developments over the years and their reasoning. My main concern is getting metal debris out from the manufacturing /machining process.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I agree with all the new developments over the years and their reasoning. My main concern is getting metal debris out from the manufacturing /machining process.

Absolutely. When I got an engine and/or heads back from a machine shop, they underwent a grueling, soapy, rifle brush cleaning of every passage, water blasting of the cores before the (so called) freeze plugs went in, etc, followed by a can of WD and compressed air to dry it all out. Gotta be dead-clean.

Modern engine "creation" from start to finish is very robotic/QC focused. They're at the point of perfection, and really have been since the 2000s. A friend of mine has 250K on his 2005 Trailblazer, running strong, no leaks, no smoke, no nothing. Can you imagine that kind of miles on a '68 383?

 

[Davea Lux]

Absolutely. When I got an engine and/or heads back from a machine shop, they underwent a grueling, soapy, rifle brush cleaning of every passage, water blasting of the cores before the (so called) freeze plugs went in, etc, followed by a can of WD and compressed air to dry it all out. Gotta be dead-clean.

Modern engine "creation" from start to finish is very robotic/QC focused. They're at the point of perfection, and really have been since the 2000s. A friend of mine has 250K on his 2005 Trailblazer, running strong, no leaks, no smoke, no nothing. Can you imagine that kind of miles on a '68 383?

A few of the high mileage fleet cars that were running 50-70k a year would last that long if properly serviced. Usually would have need valve guides and a timing chain at 150k to make it that far.

Dave

 

[70bigblockdodge]

heads back from a machine shop, they underwent a grueling, soapy, rifle brush cleaning of every passage, water blasting of the cores before the (so called) freeze plugs went in, etc, followed by a can of WD and compressed air to dry it all out. Gotta be dead-clean

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This, not hoping the oil will flush it out

 

[Clover]

A few of the high mileage fleet cars that were running 50-70k a year would last that long if properly serviced. Usually would have need valve guides and a timing chain at 150k to make it that far.

Dave

I used to do fleet service for Yellow Cab in the early ‘80s and we had about ten ‘73 and ‘74 slant six Satellites and Coronets, all with about 300K miles on them, with original engines. They were run 24/7 with religious 3K oil changes.