C body networking

Big_John said:
First rule on "upgrading" classic cars.... Keep the old original parts.

Let's say you get tired of this car in a couple years and want to sell it... Let's say I'm in the market and look at the car. I open the hood and first words out of my mouth will be "where's the original carb and manifold?". It doesn't matter if I want to run them or not... Most guys want the original stuff that goes with the car. Instant price drop (at least for me and a bunch of others).

Your call though... And I don't want to take anything away from @Boydsdodge . Just saying...
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Id reply and say the car isnt for you then. If you are looking for an original, why bother looking at a 'hotrod' or 'restomod'? If i sell my car i will incluse everything in the listing that has been done...if someone comes and complains they can just ...beat it then :D
 
If the ac is being upgraded down the road, leave the compressor on the engine.
Removal will require different pulleys and brackets to make it work without the compressor.
Any "new" carburetor you nowadays are built lean right out of the box. So in order to avoid detonation, get a matching tuner kit with jets and metering rods.
Yeah more work..I personally would find a TQ specialist and have thrm rebuild it.
Like Ken Manley who does TS exclusively.
Carter Thermoquad Club/MANLEY Thermoquads | Facebook
Tim here also used another member here to redo his TQ.
They are excellent carbs when tuned right and provide decent MPG with the small primary's
Hope this helps.
 
Knebel said:
Id reply and say the car isnt for you then. If you are looking for an original, why bother looking at a 'hotrod' or 'restomod'? If i sell my car i will incluse everything in the listing that has been done...if someone comes and complains they can just ...beat it then :D
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I don't think you are getting the point and reading much more into my response.

Lets say I find a car I really want. Maybe there's mods, maybe there isn't. Everything looks ok until I open the door and there is an 8" chain steering wheel. Some guys really like those, but most don't want to live with it. Wouldn't you ask "got the original wheel?"

The point being that if you are just changing a couple things, there may be some guy down the road that either wants to change it back or just keep the original parts with the car. I've known soooooo many guys that say "I should have kept ....." when there taste has changed or they decide they aren't happy with the mod. The op being new at this might not realize that there is value to keeping stock parts.
 
Big_John said:
I don't think you are getting the point and reading much more into my response.

Lets say I find a car I really want. Maybe there's mods, maybe there isn't. Everything looks ok until I open the door and there is an 8" chain steering wheel. Some guys really like those, but most don't want to live with it. Wouldn't you ask "got the original wheel?"

The point being that if you are just changing a couple things, there may be some guy down the road that either wants to change it back or just keep the original parts with the car. I've known soooooo many guys that say "I should have kept ....." when there taste has changed or they decide they aren't happy with the mod. The op being new at this might not realize that there is value to keeping stock parts.
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Got it, you are correct. I got a grant wheel but my original is still in my possession. But engine and suspension parts? Idk...
 
I agree with that. Trying not to do anything that couldn't be undone. When we changed grills the original was packed up with the old headlights and stored away. I have a second hood so if I decide to play (always wanted an airgrabber) the original hood can stay intact.
 
73 New Yorker said:
The fender skirts were in the trunk when I received the car but there was no hardware on the back of them. As far as the manifold and carburetor, I’ve read about and talked to quite a few people that say from a performance and longevity standpoint this is the better option.
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There are lots of Illinois C-body folks on the forum. If you need some things done right away by a professional who knows what he's doing then, given that you are in Central Illinois, I'll be happy to send you a PM with a suggestion.

I own a 1973 NYB 4dr hardtop that I call Ming. I bought that Chrysler from Ohio at the start of Covid; @71Polara383 (who is in Illinois) has been helping me bring the car back since then.

As for the fender skirts, I think that part of what you need are butterfly nuts. They pop up occasionally -- I was lucky for Buttercup, my 1972 NYB. The part number for the ones that I bought on eBay is 6028934 or 602 8934 ; FWIW, I paid $26.56 shipped for a pair.

s-l16004.jpg
 
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73 New Yorker said:
I am new to car restoration. I purchased my car a month ago with the agreement that my local mechanic would teach/help me to make upgrades.
Unfortunately the needs of the car quickly out ran his availability so I’m left hiring another shop to do all of my upgrades.
I would very much like to learn but currently have no one to learn from, YouTube videos are not enough in my case.
I live in Central Illinois and I was wondering if there was a network of people with C body cars anywhere near me that would be willing to teach a beginner a few things. Thank you

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Welcome to the site! There is a wealth of knowledge with the members on here so also utilize this forum to learn as well. I went through auto school in the late 80s and learned on a 77 New Yorker. Even with that, I use this forum to learn or help troubleshoot things I might have missed. I currently own a 77 NY with only 60,000 miles on it. That is an awesome NY you have.
 
I can't offer much knowledge but I can feel your pain as I'm about as novice as they come. I've learned all sorts of cool things since November like what a "crankcase breather" is and why, and "hey, I have a 5/16 fuel line!". The folks on here are awesome, just do as much research as you can and take pictures! I'm hoping by the time I retire in a dozen or so years I'll have enough of a working knowledge to fix more than I break...
 
73 New Yorker_ I also live in central Illinois ( just outside Decatur ) and have been elbow deep in C Bodies for 25 years. I looked at your list and It looks like the stuff a Top Dog $200,000 restoration shop would recommend to you. But stock Chrysler was robust as hell. If you are just looking a Safe Drive that's trouble free and fun you choose well. If your New Yorker is close enough I would be willing to at least take a look and give you an opinion. I'm a 70 year retired engineer who owned a Auto Repair Shop in the 1980s. My name is Clark Morris, give me a call and we'll meet for coffee.
 
arkmorris said:
73 New Yorker_ I also live in central Illinois ( just outside Decatur ) and have been elbow deep in C Bodies for 25 years. I looked at your list and It looks like the stuff a Top Dog $200,000 restoration shop would recommend to you. But stock Chrysler was robust as hell. If you are just looking a Safe Drive that's trouble free and fun you choose well. If your New Yorker is close enough I would be willing to at least take a look and give you an opinion. I'm a 70 year retired engineer who owned a Auto Repair Shop in the 1980s. My name is Clark Morris, give me a call and we'll meet for coffee.
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What a great offer.
 
arkmorris said:
73 New Yorker_ I also live in central Illinois ( just outside Decatur ) and have been elbow deep in C Bodies for 25 years. I looked at your list and It looks like the stuff a Top Dog $200,000 restoration shop would recommend to you. But stock Chrysler was robust as hell. If you are just looking a Safe Drive that's trouble free and fun you choose well. If your New Yorker is close enough I would be willing to at least take a look and give you an opinion. I'm a 70 year retired engineer who owned a Auto Repair Shop in the 1980s. My name is Clark Morris, give me a call and we'll meet for coffee.
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@arkmorris -- will you be bringing your 1968 Fury to the 6th Midwest C-Body Body Show in Volo, IL on June 25?
 
73 New Yorker said:
When I was a teenager I owned a 1968 Chevelle and a 1976 Cutlass Supreme. In your opinion do you think those cars should be pretty close to what I should be able to expect out of the New Yorker?

Did you notice a big difference after the rebuild to your car’s steering?
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I do not think that a fuselage c body is like the above cars. They have a unique feel. For the suspension I purchased the firm feel police steering and complete suspension. It is expensive but your car is worth it. Every time I drive my car I am impressed on the handling for a 50 year old car. Really nothing like these cars on the road.
 
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1971 Dodge Polara custom. Bought it 33 years ago from Original owner for $450 in 1989. It's a Land Yacht. I'm doing what he's doing to get it back on the road again. it's the only one I've seen in Orange County, Calif. Anaheim for 40 years and never seen one.

71 dodge.jpg
 
ayilar said:
@arkmorris -- will you be bringing your 1968 Fury to the 6th Midwest C-Body Body Show in Volo, IL on June 25?
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Nope: Bought correct numbers rebuilt 318 for my 69 Fury convert and have the old iron out. Have had the 69 for 20 years. I found a good buy on a factory built correct engine with heads upgraded for unleaded gas, but long story!! I see the confusion about my having a 68 Fury. But my younger brother was so jealous of my car, he bought a beautiful Yellow 1968 Fury convertible last year. I have been helping him by buying 1968 Fury parts using my forum contacts. Jeez what a mouthy way to say no! HA
 
73 New Yorker said:
I am new to car restoration. I purchased my car a month ago with the agreement that my local mechanic would teach/help me to make upgrades.
Unfortunately the needs of the car quickly out ran his availability so I’m left hiring another shop to do all of my upgrades.
I would very much like to learn but currently have no one to learn from, YouTube videos are not enough in my case.
I live in Central Illinois and I was wondering if there was a network of people with C body cars anywhere near me that would be willing to teach a beginner a few things. Thank you

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Welcome to C-bodies, there’s a wealth of knowledge here from the collective group that can help you. Restorations are not for the faint of heart, Ive seen it many times where some people get a car to restore and tear it apart, lose interest, because of costs, parts availability, shoddy shops, lack of people with experience to actually know how to work Chrysler specific cars, list goes on.. My advice is buy yourself a C-body that’s further along (c body’s are affordable thankfully) get your self a FSM (factory service manual) read it, research, research, research and learn about your car. In the mean time you get to enjoy driving the car while learning about it, occasionally turning some wrenches and tinker with it, and replacing the occasional part as needed. More fun this way unless your really ambitious then by all means, roll up your sleeves and get in there! My 2 cents :)
 
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By the way from what I can see the car you bought looks to be in great shape. I just meant if it needs so much get yourself one that is further along is all I meant. Also don’t be quick to throw out your old parts, keep what can be rebuilt or refurbished because a lot of times the replacement parts are inferior or not available.
 
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By observation, some people buy "an old car" (for whatever reason) and then seek to "restore it", suspecting that anything they might need will be at the local auto supply, or some nearby restoration shop. ONLY to discover that C-body Chrysler products are (as is the case, then and now) a breed unto themselves. NOTHING like a similar-year Camaro or Mustang, by a long shot. Then, with those realizations, they might lose interest, with the car still hopefully still in one piece, and go onto something else.

The car looks pretty good, but I know that there might be some issues lurking under that steel skin, which will need some attention, sooner or later. Just the way things go.

In the mean time, DO drive and enjoy the car for what it is. Something more unique than a Mustang, which can provide lots of driving pleasure with reliability and durability. Learn and appreciate the tactile feel and sounds it makes as it drives, which is ONE of the things which make any Chrysler product unique and different from Fords and GMs, which have their own unique feels and such. Back then, there was NO "generic car" as such, unlike how things tend to be now.

Drive the car and learn about it too, as things might present themselves. Things can be better that way! BUT DO Investigate the mechanicals and such, for possibly fewer issues "down the road".

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
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