I have a question for those more experienced. I tried to drive the spring pin in this am.....and thought it might work better from the side with the counterbore.....the larger hole end. This is the lower pin on the gearbox. Pin did not want to start, so rolled over to the small side and it went in. I did not think to look closely when I had it in my hands. Does anyone know if there might be a shoulder or small diameter on the side with the counterbore.....or did I just not have it starting correctly. thanks
C Body Rag Joint
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
It should have gone in on the counterbore side, no problem. But since you got the pin in from the smaller bore, no worries. Indeed, you may have it had it cocked, or there's a tiny burr in the counterbore end from removing the pin, OR you maybe didn't have the coupler seated on the spline when you were working from the counterbore side (but driving the pin in should pull the coupler into alignment). Again, you should be good to go as is.
FYI, the FSM states that a new roll pin be used. I'm guessing that has never, ever happened in the entire history of Mopar steering column work.
But it begs the question: If that pin has been removed and reused a half-a-dozen times over 60 years.....is it remotely possible for it fall out from vibration due to an unbalanced front tire or road surface vibrations?
Shudder to think!
FYI, the FSM states that a new roll pin be used. I'm guessing that has never, ever happened in the entire history of Mopar steering column work.
But it begs the question: If that pin has been removed and reused a half-a-dozen times over 60 years.....is it remotely possible for it fall out from vibration due to an unbalanced front tire or road surface vibrations?
Shudder to think!
Roll pins sometimes have a mind of their own. That's a general statement and not just for this application.
In this case, often one end of the pin is burred or slightly mushroomed on the end.
What I do sometimes with a stubborn roll pin is squeeze them slightly at the end you inserting first with vise grips so the diameter is smaller and that's just enough to help it start. Once it's started, the vise grips usually fall off and you drive it in. Cheap roll pins won't spring back, so you have to be careful.
As I was writing this, @Trace 300 Hurst mentions about the FSM saying "new pin". What I've found is the old used pin is better than most of the new, offshore sourced, roll pins you'd buy at the local hardware store. Those are one use only... Unless you drive something into the pin to expand it again. I'm not recommending that, but let's say I've done it once or twice. See my sentence above about "won't spring back".
I doubt very seriously if it could come out, it would have to be really loose going in.It should have gone in on the counterbore side, no problem. But since you got the pin in from the smaller bore, no worries. Indeed, you may have it had it cocked, or there's a tiny burr in the counterbore end from removing the pin, OR you maybe didn't have the coupler seated on the spline when you were working from the counterbore side (but driving the pin in should pull the coupler into alignment). Again, you should be good to go as is.
FYI, the FSM states that a new roll pin be used. I'm guessing that has never, ever happened in the entire history of Mopar steering column work.
But it begs the question: If that pin has been removed and reused a half-a-dozen times over 60 years.....is it remotely possible for it fall out from vibration due to an unbalanced front tire or road surface vibrations?
The last time I did this, I lost the roll pin that I drove out and started to use the new roll pin that came with my coupler rebuild kit. The pin was way oversize, and when I squeezed it down to get it into the hole, it was obvious that it was much softer than the original. It was then that I started looking harder for the old pin and I used that instead.
I always knew you were a risk-taker!
Yes, it's VERY unlikely that the pin wiggle/jiggle out. But I thought it was fun to point out the FSM entreaty about "new".
I will have to see what the manual calls these pins, but they are not roll pins, they are spring pins. A roll pin is made up by rolling up the sheet steel, and is basically a solid pin. The only place I have seen them used of late is on farm eqpt....and had some there. But, to agree with points on materials, I was rebuilding an old 3 spd truck trans from a 49 Ford. The shaft on the idler gear was totally worn, so I ordered from the new supplier. When I got it, I ran a file across it, and it cut in. The OEM was hard. So, luckily for me, I found a NOS on ebay that was correct. The seller said, no sweat, no one will drive these things much anyway. Also, on the reuse of something like this, I am always cautious to ensure that it is still very tight....just as mentioned here. Thanks for info on the hole size, I do not recall which way I drove it out.....old age again.
Agree on ROLL vs. SPRING pins. The spring pin is a "C" cross section.
Old age, or Scotch again?
I knew that! Honest....Agree on ROLL vs. SPRING pins. The spring pin is a "C" cross section.
View attachment 576780
Old age, or Scotch again?
Always hear it referred to as a "roll pin" though and sometimes you just gotta roll with it.
I do refuse to use the word "posi" when referring to a "Sure grip" rear and don't get me started on "kick down" linkage...
YOU'RE the one who keeps saying "kick down" linkage.
Hell, even Chrysler doesn't know what to call it!
I have to leave this thread now because I need to post up pics of all the Tri-Power E-Bods and A-12 cars at Kissimmee....
Will Rogers had something to say about what we know, and I am laughing my self. I will also call them a roll pin sometimes, and kickdown and tri power six pack three twos. Ah yes, our english. But, the key is having fun with the junk. A dowel pin he says....hmmm. BTW, kissimee was the best I have seen.
I've been attending Kissimmee (and Indy, and several of the other smaller venues at a whim) for ten or eleven years, and this one was extraordinary. EVERYTHING was there!
Okay, I'm going back on topic. Rubber biscuits.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Nope...back to steering gear issues. But I've been taking that same basic '63 Split pic for 30 years at car shows or wherever. I once took six that were identical in composition (like the ones above) but with differing colors and had them framed together in a collage.....I spent a lot of time gazing at that bit of art.
So did you have to take shaft right out to switch rag joint? Is it riveted? Thanks
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